Hmmmmm ok so you guys think it's a short in the bars. Would that affect the headlight as well making it dim?

 

I can't help but wonder if you have a ground wire disconnected in the fairing area after the install of the bars. If this issue started directly after replacement of the bars, then logic says it has to be as a result of the swap. Either the indy did not install the wires in the right receptacle holes or he inadvertently knocked off or broke a ground. I would check those two places to start with.

 

Ok I'll go that route before looking at the alternator. Thanks guys!

 

yep !!

 

3 minutes with a VOM & you could tell whether or not its the three phase from the plug/jack with power off at the engine and you can test at the battery to see if it the voltage regulator while running.

 

Stop! You say that you have a new battery, but they are not truly fully charged when new, despite what the box may say, so remove it and properly charge it before going any further.

If you have any doubts about anything in your charging circuit there are a couple of helpful Stickies in the DIY Electrical section. Go through what they recommend and verify if you have a charging problem and put it right.

Back to your running problems, I have lost count of the number of times we get members asking what the electrical problem is - after they have just installed new bars! You most likely have a problem arising from the change of bars, regardless of what the indy says. If all was working correctly before, either take it back or check yourself.

 

Have to agree with everyone. Wiring in bars. Been there done that except my bike went into full limp mode and couldn't go above 2200 rpms No matter what. All caused by short in right side.

 

What bars are you running? Just because the Indy says he used a sheath doesn't mean Jack.

2010 Limited with some stuff

 

OP.

I'd really look at your charging system before looking at the bars. ( these problems may not be related)

there are a couple of universal truths:

a bad battery can destroy the charging system.
a stator can destroy the VR
the VR can discharge the battery
and cables can be loose or corrode internally

as suggested above, a few minutes with a voltmeter will tell you if the stator is good, if the VR is good.
ALL checks MUST be done with a known good, fully charged battery.

A trickle charger or tender is NOT a battery charger. It will maintain a charged battery ( "tend") but not re-charge a discharged battery.


I posted a thread last year on a neighbor who spent $1300 on repairing the charging system and battery- to find that a $12 battery cable was responsible for all that expensive stuff blowing up.

The electrical system is really easy to check, if the 'checker" has an understanding of what each part does.

everything described above suggests to me that a bad ground may be occurring, and methodical checks with a meter will tell one way or the other.


IF all this new work involved a soldering iron, some of us have experienced soldered wires breaking due to vibration. The strands break where the tinning ends.
this is why manufacturers use crimped wire connections, they are more vibration resistant


Mike

 

The hand controls stopped working when I installed the new PYO monkey bars. They would be intermittent and only work all the time on aux mode. Then after a month or two the gauges started going haywire. The indy used a volt meter and said that it was the voltage regulator....we swapped that and it was fine for a while. After winter storage on a trickle charger I took the bike out for a spin and started having all of these issues. The indy said that my battery would probably need to be replaced soon so I figured that was the issue and bought a FULLY charged battery from a local battery dealer. It was fine for a couple of hours and then towards the end of ride it started going all haywire again....that was yesterday. Hopefully that gives some more insight. I trust the Indy when he says he used a sheath and he is not the type to bullshit!