Need help ASAP. Electrical problem
Road Warrior
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,434
Likes: 384
From: Arkansastan
I can't help but wonder if you have a ground wire disconnected in the fairing area after the install of the bars. If this issue started directly after replacement of the bars, then logic says it has to be as a result of the swap. Either the indy did not install the wires in the right receptacle holes or he inadvertently knocked off or broke a ground. I would check those two places to start with.
Road Warrior
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,468
Likes: 4
From: South Carolina
3 minutes with a VOM & you could tell whether or not its the three phase from the plug/jack with power off at the engine and you can test at the battery to see if it the voltage regulator while running.
Club Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 45,429
Likes: 2,898
From: Bedford UK
If you have any doubts about anything in your charging circuit there are a couple of helpful Stickies in the DIY Electrical section. Go through what they recommend and verify if you have a charging problem and put it right.
Back to your running problems, I have lost count of the number of times we get members asking what the electrical problem is - after they have just installed new bars! You most likely have a problem arising from the change of bars, regardless of what the indy says. If all was working correctly before, either take it back or check yourself.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 10,637
Likes: 1,246
From: Lake, Ms
What bars are you running? Just because the Indy says he used a sheath doesn't mean Jack.
2010 Limited with some stuff
2010 Limited with some stuff
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Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 14,744
Likes: 402
From: Phoenix '53, '88, '09 Big Twins
OP.
I'd really look at your charging system before looking at the bars. ( these problems may not be related)
there are a couple of universal truths:
a bad battery can destroy the charging system.
a stator can destroy the VR
the VR can discharge the battery
and cables can be loose or corrode internally
as suggested above, a few minutes with a voltmeter will tell you if the stator is good, if the VR is good.
ALL checks MUST be done with a known good, fully charged battery.
A trickle charger or tender is NOT a battery charger. It will maintain a charged battery ( "tend") but not re-charge a discharged battery.
I posted a thread last year on a neighbor who spent $1300 on repairing the charging system and battery- to find that a $12 battery cable was responsible for all that expensive stuff blowing up.
The electrical system is really easy to check, if the 'checker" has an understanding of what each part does.
everything described above suggests to me that a bad ground may be occurring, and methodical checks with a meter will tell one way or the other.
IF all this new work involved a soldering iron, some of us have experienced soldered wires breaking due to vibration. The strands break where the tinning ends.
this is why manufacturers use crimped wire connections, they are more vibration resistant
Mike
I'd really look at your charging system before looking at the bars. ( these problems may not be related)
there are a couple of universal truths:
a bad battery can destroy the charging system.
a stator can destroy the VR
the VR can discharge the battery
and cables can be loose or corrode internally
as suggested above, a few minutes with a voltmeter will tell you if the stator is good, if the VR is good.
ALL checks MUST be done with a known good, fully charged battery.
A trickle charger or tender is NOT a battery charger. It will maintain a charged battery ( "tend") but not re-charge a discharged battery.
I posted a thread last year on a neighbor who spent $1300 on repairing the charging system and battery- to find that a $12 battery cable was responsible for all that expensive stuff blowing up.
The electrical system is really easy to check, if the 'checker" has an understanding of what each part does.
everything described above suggests to me that a bad ground may be occurring, and methodical checks with a meter will tell one way or the other.
IF all this new work involved a soldering iron, some of us have experienced soldered wires breaking due to vibration. The strands break where the tinning ends.
this is why manufacturers use crimped wire connections, they are more vibration resistant
Mike
Thread Starter
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Road Warrior
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,401
Likes: 3
From: Vancouver, bc
The hand controls stopped working when I installed the new PYO monkey bars. They would be intermittent and only work all the time on aux mode. Then after a month or two the gauges started going haywire. The indy used a volt meter and said that it was the voltage regulator....we swapped that and it was fine for a while. After winter storage on a trickle charger I took the bike out for a spin and started having all of these issues. The indy said that my battery would probably need to be replaced soon so I figured that was the issue and bought a FULLY charged battery from a local battery dealer. It was fine for a couple of hours and then towards the end of ride it started going all haywire again....that was yesterday. Hopefully that gives some more insight. I trust the Indy when he says he used a sheath and he is not the type to bullshit!
