I have an 2003 Road King Classic and the cruise works erratically. So last year before Sturgis I replaced the right handle bar switch, at the same time I put some mini apes and replaced throttle cables. I did that because the dealers said that was the switch that was bad. Fixed right, nope, well sort of. It worked all the way to Sturgis and then on the way back it started acting up again. It worked only after I shut the bike off for a bit after filling up. So I waited to get on the highway for a long stretch before engaging the cruise. If it did go off, I could shut the bike off, while riding, then turn it back on and it would work, sometimes. I took the bike in for a check and a new guy said that it might be the Cruise Control Module. I have read where it might be the cables to the right of the tank and I have done that, taken one off and tried, same thing. Taken both off and same thing. A mechanic did tell me that Harley discontinued those Cruise Modules because they were faulty with a new one. Just wanted to see if anyone else had the same problem and replaced the module and if it worked. That is my last straw I think.

 

check front brake lever switch. mine lever was worn and vibrating making the cruise to go on and off.

 

I had a cruise control module go bad on my 2005. The symptom was the light on the speedo would come on (red), but never set to green. This was the same symptom I had when the set/resume switch went bad (another time). For what that's worth.

The brake switch jurgie mentions sure sounds like a good place to start…if that's not it, read on...

Since the cruise works at times, and 'resetting' it by cycling the bike power only works 'sometimes', I would first look at connectors. It's most likely (not a certainty) that if electronics are bad it will be a constant thing, the cruise just wouldn't work. It wouldn't be erratic, it'd be dead most likely. The other thing that makes it not look like a module to me is, it worked for a relatively long time on the way to Sturgis…quit…then worked again. Electronic failures seldom if ever 'fix themselves'. So I'm thinking it's something mechanical. (It could be a solder-joint in the module--that's mechanical--but unless you're a skilled Elec Tech, you're probably not going to fix this one so for all intents and purposes, you'd have to consider the module to be 'bad' if this is it).

I'd pay special attention to the connector at the module itself. Take it off, look inside. If you don't see corrosion chances are it's ok. But if you see 'stuff' in there, clean it up so all the contacts are fresh on both the socket and plug. Use a little piece of emory cloth, or a pencil eraser (if you can get it in there)--anything that could clean off oxidation. Blow it clean with compressed air so there's no metallic 'dust' left. Examine the 'female' side of things, and make sure none of the contacts are 'sprung' and all make good contact. (This is unlikely to be the issue, but it's worth a look-see while you're in there).

I'm not sure where the other end of all those module wires go (but some must go to the handlebar switches). But if cleaning the main socket/plug to the module doesn't work…you might end up tracing the other end of the wires out.

If it's not the main module's electrical connections, I'd be looking at the switches/wiring in the bars, next. And the on/off cruise switch is the first one I'd look at…(If there's something wrong with the cruise on/off switch or its associated wires, it could give you just the symptom you describe…another idea is, just replace this switch on general principles…cut the old one out, splice a new one in.)

The cruise system HD used for your year is obsolete. There are still some parts available, e.g., I sold a module not too long ago, and there were still some for sale from dealers. (They're in the 300-400 buck range). That's the other way to approach this. If you think it's a module, buy a module, swap it in, and if it works, it's fixed. If not, you have a spare.

But I'd try the connector clean-up first. Then, replace the cruise on/off switch. If it turns out to be the connector, you might pull it apart after you verify it and apply some dielectric grease to the contacts to keep them from corroding in the future.

I BELIEVE there's a trouble-shooting guide in the Svc. Manual, for the cruise.

Alan

 

@Jurgie Front Brake switch is fine, thanks.

@Alan, I will do that this week and see if that works. I replaced the resume, set and accel switch before but the On/Off light has always been working. Looks like I will have to try cleaning the connections and go on a long ride this next weekend to see if it works. I am heading to Texas in April and was hoping that I could get this fixed before then. The parts guy at the Harley shop said that he used to work on this issue and told me it was the Module. But then the actual mechanic could not find anything wrong with it. I hate taking my bike there because they have a HUGE turnover on staff all the time, and the owner is an ***. But it is the only place in town and that sucks sometimes.