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Clutch Slipping?

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Old Mar 31, 2014 | 03:42 AM
  #11  
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Thanks all, appreciate the input. I will take it back to the indy as soon as I get back on Friday from freezing my butt off in Toronto
 
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Old Mar 31, 2014 | 06:04 AM
  #12  
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My 11 RGC was doing the same. Had my dealer check adjustment, it didn't change anything. After inspecting the clutch and finding nothing they replaced clutch springs which solved the problem. Mine did this at 16000 mi. Not a common issue but I figured I'd throw it out there.
 
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Old Mar 31, 2014 | 06:12 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by redman2636
My 11 RGC was doing the same. Had my dealer check adjustment, it didn't change anything. After inspecting the clutch and finding nothing they replaced clutch springs which solved the problem. Mine did this at 16000 mi. Not a common issue but I figured I'd throw it out there.
Certainly something to keep in mind if the adjustment doesnt work. Appreciate your throwing that out there.
 
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Old Mar 31, 2014 | 07:24 PM
  #14  
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While being a relatively simple task, proper clutch adjustment seems to be a little tricky...

If you do a search here on HDF, you will find many many threads with this same subject. Most of the time, it was a mal-adjusted clutch. You will also find, that there are just as many people who have a different way of adjusting it, other than how the service manual instructs. This could be a leading factor in why so many have a problem?

One thing that I found was:
When turning the clutch adjuster screw in to make contact, you may find that you can back off a 1/4 turn, the turn it in again, and the contact has moved further in than it was at first. I have had to back off, and then turn it in again as many as 3 times, to get what I call an actual 'positive contact'. Being as the first time you feel contact, the ball/ramp throwout bearing may not be fully compressed, it can give you a misleading impression that you have made contact.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2014 | 06:55 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by Def Mute
While being a relatively simple task, proper clutch adjustment seems to be a little tricky...

If you do a search here on HDF, you will find many many threads with this same subject. Most of the time, it was a mal-adjusted clutch. You will also find, that there are just as many people who have a different way of adjusting it, other than how the service manual instructs. This could be a leading factor in why so many have a problem?

One thing that I found was:
When turning the clutch adjuster screw in to make contact, you may find that you can back off a 1/4 turn, the turn it in again, and the contact has moved further in than it was at first. I have had to back off, and then turn it in again as many as 3 times, to get what I call an actual 'positive contact'. Being as the first time you feel contact, the ball/ramp throwout bearing may not be fully compressed, it can give you a misleading impression that you have made contact.
I just put the SE heavy duty spring and adjusted my clutch per the manual yesterday. Now I feel I have to go back in and see if the contact spot moves if I turn the adjuster screw out and back in again...
 
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Old Apr 1, 2014 | 07:01 AM
  #16  
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My 2012 clutch was fried. I replaced it with a Barnett +1 clutch. This was after the stealership charged me $135 to ride it around the parking lot and tell me there was nothing wrong. It was actually under 10K miles and under the original warranty.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2014 | 08:21 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by marvincbr
I just put the SE heavy duty spring and adjusted my clutch per the manual yesterday. Now I feel I have to go back in and see if the contact spot moves if I turn the adjuster screw out and back in again...
If it isn't slipping, don't bother. The manual says to squeeze the clutch lever several times throughout the adjustment, even though the cable is loose. This is supposed to help align the throwout bearing. If yours is working fine, then leave it.



Originally Posted by Noble Jim
My 2012 clutch was fried. I replaced it with a Barnett +1 clutch. This was after the stealership charged me $135 to ride it around the parking lot and tell me there was nothing wrong. It was actually under 10K miles and under the original warranty.
I'm curious...
What exactly got 'fried' on yours? These clutches are pretty tough. I'm running the stock clutch on my '99. I'm no speed racer, but I wouldn't say my clutch has been babied either. I bought a +1 plate clutch a few years ago, still no need for it. Unless you are running 100+ hp, the OEM clutch should be good for many years. Of course, that is if you haven't beaten it to death with hole shots, wheelies, burn outs, or running hard for a long while with a loose adjustment. Maybe, if you belong to a riding group that does slow ride exhibits/competitions daily, I might believe your clutch could have actually been 'fried'...

When they do get 'burned', you can sometimes clean the plates up with a piece of extra fine sandpaper laid on a flat surface like a pane of glass. The manual gives you the proper thickness of the plate stack, to insure you are still within 'serviceable limits'. And, sometimes, the steel plates can become warped if over heated. Unless your plates were severely warn, or warped, beyond the serviceable limits in the manual, I would suspect you got rid of a perfectly good clutch. But if it makes you feel better, then it was worth the expense, right?
 

Last edited by Def Mute; Apr 1, 2014 at 08:40 AM.
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Old Apr 1, 2014 | 08:31 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Def Mute
If it isn't slipping, don't bother. The manual says to squeeze the clutch lever several times throughout the adjustment, even though the cable is loose. This is supposed to help align the throwout bearing. If yours is working fine, then leave it.
Correct, I did pull the lever a few times during adjustment and I was able to get her out for a spin yesterday. I was about time we had a decent day around here. I didn't notice any slipping and it seemed to grip very nicely. I'm going to go with the belief that it is adjusted properly.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2014 | 06:07 PM
  #19  
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Noble Jim
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From: Greeneville, TN
Default Fried Clutch

Originally Posted by Def Mute
If it isn't slipping, don't bother. The manual says to squeeze the clutch lever several times throughout the adjustment, even though the cable is loose. This is supposed to help align the throwout bearing. If yours is working fine, then leave it.





I'm curious...
What exactly got 'fried' on yours? These clutches are pretty tough. I'm running the stock clutch on my '99. I'm no speed racer, but I wouldn't say my clutch has been babied either. I bought a +1 plate clutch a few years ago, still no need for it. Unless you are running 100+ hp, the OEM clutch should be good for many years. Of course, that is if you haven't beaten it to death with hole shots, wheelies, burn outs, or running hard for a long while with a loose adjustment. Maybe, if you belong to a riding group that does slow ride exhibits/competitions daily, I might believe your clutch could have actually been 'fried'...

When they do get 'burned', you can sometimes clean the plates up with a piece of extra fine sandpaper laid on a flat surface like a pane of glass. The manual gives you the proper thickness of the plate stack, to insure you are still within 'serviceable limits'. And, sometimes, the steel plates can become warped if over heated. Unless your plates were severely warn, or warped, beyond the serviceable limits in the manual, I would suspect you got rid of a perfectly good clutch. But if it makes you feel better, then it was worth the expense, right?

My clutch would shudder when engaging. It would begin to engage when the lever was let out a bit. As the clutch lever was let out more, nothing more happened. When the clutch lever was almost out the clutch would grab 100%. The stealership said it was ok. I took the basket apart and found the outside 3 disks were burned. This ride has less than 10K miles on it, never jerked around, look, I'm too old to ride like that.
One more thing, I've owned several HDs over the years and still have an 06 RKC. I have never experienced a clutch like this.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2014 | 06:16 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Noble Jim
My clutch would shudder when engaging. It would begin to engage when the lever was let out a bit. As the clutch lever was let out more, nothing more happened. When the clutch lever was almost out the clutch would grab 100%. The stealership said it was ok. I took the basket apart and found the outside 3 disks were burned. This ride has less than 10K miles on it, never jerked around, look, I'm too old to ride like that.
One more thing, I've owned several HDs over the years and still have an 06 RKC. I have never experienced a clutch like this.
Hmmm. I had those exact symptoms on mine and once I got rid of the Syn3, I was fine. Dealer put it in when they replaced my defective comp sprocket.
 
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