Think I need a new rear cam chain tensionrr
Before doing anything, I would collect a sample of the oil from the tank and sent it to Blackstone for testing. If there is metal flowing in the oil, the test will show it and how much.
Two ways to go.
1. Replace the OEM cam plate, inner and outer cam bearings, install CYCO tensioners in lieu of the OEM tensioners, replace the lifters with a set of CompCams 850-1s, replace cams if necessary. Get the Scavenger complete oil change kit and do a complete oil change. Forget about tearing the motor down completely at this point; why borrow trouble, it might run for another 50K miles. I would run the motor for 500 miles and do another complete oil change.
2. Same as #1 but upgrade the cam chest with the SE "hybrid" kit that includes hydraulic tensioners, high capacity pump, roller outer chain (inne chain remains link to run OEM cams), replace cams with set of Andrews 26 or S&S 509s, install good fuel management system and get her tuned. Same drill on oil changes.
I would not do #2 if the Blackstone test reveals that there is a lot of metal flowing in the oil. I might take the time to pull the top end and flush the crankcase with diesel fuel and pull the pan and clean. JMHO, but why tear the motor comletely apart; you can always do that, if necessary, after trying #1 which won't cost a bundle if you do the work yourself.
I have seen similar failures and you would be surprised how many are put back together without complete disassembly of the motor and the owners ride many more trouble free miles. Some do pull the top end and "flush" the crank case with diesel fuel and pull the pan to clean but some simply rebuild the cam chest.
Of course, if you have the money and the time, pulling the motor, splitting the cases, etc. is always an option. Once you go that far, and funds are available, that's the time to build a bigger displacement motor.
Two ways to go.
1. Replace the OEM cam plate, inner and outer cam bearings, install CYCO tensioners in lieu of the OEM tensioners, replace the lifters with a set of CompCams 850-1s, replace cams if necessary. Get the Scavenger complete oil change kit and do a complete oil change. Forget about tearing the motor down completely at this point; why borrow trouble, it might run for another 50K miles. I would run the motor for 500 miles and do another complete oil change.
2. Same as #1 but upgrade the cam chest with the SE "hybrid" kit that includes hydraulic tensioners, high capacity pump, roller outer chain (inne chain remains link to run OEM cams), replace cams with set of Andrews 26 or S&S 509s, install good fuel management system and get her tuned. Same drill on oil changes.
I would not do #2 if the Blackstone test reveals that there is a lot of metal flowing in the oil. I might take the time to pull the top end and flush the crankcase with diesel fuel and pull the pan and clean. JMHO, but why tear the motor comletely apart; you can always do that, if necessary, after trying #1 which won't cost a bundle if you do the work yourself.
I have seen similar failures and you would be surprised how many are put back together without complete disassembly of the motor and the owners ride many more trouble free miles. Some do pull the top end and "flush" the crank case with diesel fuel and pull the pan to clean but some simply rebuild the cam chest.
Of course, if you have the money and the time, pulling the motor, splitting the cases, etc. is always an option. Once you go that far, and funds are available, that's the time to build a bigger displacement motor.
If I had the money I would like to do the bigger badder motor but alas I do not.
Road Warrior
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 1,672
Likes: 17
From: Orange, VA,
Odds are the motor has metal in it, your going to have to replace almost everything in the cam chest including the oil pump, then risk running it and ruining it all over again, at minimum I would tear it down and get all the junk floating around in it out.
Got my metals analysis back and I am in good shape. I will drain the pan to see what is in the bottom to be sure I get all the story before I can go forward with replacing parts.
Now I just have to get the cash together to do the job. I am going to put in better parts plus since I have it that far apart I am going to change the cams and the lifters as well. Install True Duals and new gaskets, of course, to get a better ride and hopefully better mileage. I was amazed at the difference in mileage between this one and my 98. I got way better mileage on the 98.
Now I just have to get the cash together to do the job. I am going to put in better parts plus since I have it that far apart I am going to change the cams and the lifters as well. Install True Duals and new gaskets, of course, to get a better ride and hopefully better mileage. I was amazed at the difference in mileage between this one and my 98. I got way better mileage on the 98.
Before doing anything, I would collect a sample of the oil from the tank and sent it to Blackstone for testing. If there is metal flowing in the oil, the test will show it and how much.
Two ways to go.
1. Replace the OEM cam plate, inner and outer cam bearings, install CYCO tensioners in lieu of the OEM tensioners, replace the lifters with a set of CompCams 850-1s, replace cams if necessary. Get the Scavenger complete oil change kit and do a complete oil change. Forget about tearing the motor down completely at this point; why borrow trouble, it might run for another 50K miles. I would run the motor for 500 miles and do another complete oil change.
2. Same as #1 but upgrade the cam chest with the SE "hybrid" kit that includes hydraulic tensioners, high capacity pump, roller outer chain (inne chain remains link to run OEM cams), replace cams with set of Andrews 26 or S&S 509s, install good fuel management system and get her tuned. Same drill on oil changes.
I would not do #2 if the Blackstone test reveals that there is a lot of metal flowing in the oil. I might take the time to pull the top end and flush the crankcase with diesel fuel and pull the pan and clean. JMHO, but why tear the motor comletely apart; you can always do that, if necessary, after trying #1 which won't cost a bundle if you do the work yourself.
I have seen similar failures and you would be surprised how many are put back together without complete disassembly of the motor and the owners ride many more trouble free miles. Some do pull the top end and "flush" the crank case with diesel fuel and pull the pan to clean but some simply rebuild the cam chest.
Of course, if you have the money and the time, pulling the motor, splitting the cases, etc. is always an option. Once you go that far, and funds are available, that's the time to build a bigger displacement motor.
Two ways to go.
1. Replace the OEM cam plate, inner and outer cam bearings, install CYCO tensioners in lieu of the OEM tensioners, replace the lifters with a set of CompCams 850-1s, replace cams if necessary. Get the Scavenger complete oil change kit and do a complete oil change. Forget about tearing the motor down completely at this point; why borrow trouble, it might run for another 50K miles. I would run the motor for 500 miles and do another complete oil change.
2. Same as #1 but upgrade the cam chest with the SE "hybrid" kit that includes hydraulic tensioners, high capacity pump, roller outer chain (inne chain remains link to run OEM cams), replace cams with set of Andrews 26 or S&S 509s, install good fuel management system and get her tuned. Same drill on oil changes.
I would not do #2 if the Blackstone test reveals that there is a lot of metal flowing in the oil. I might take the time to pull the top end and flush the crankcase with diesel fuel and pull the pan and clean. JMHO, but why tear the motor comletely apart; you can always do that, if necessary, after trying #1 which won't cost a bundle if you do the work yourself.
I have seen similar failures and you would be surprised how many are put back together without complete disassembly of the motor and the owners ride many more trouble free miles. Some do pull the top end and "flush" the crank case with diesel fuel and pull the pan to clean but some simply rebuild the cam chest.
Of course, if you have the money and the time, pulling the motor, splitting the cases, etc. is always an option. Once you go that far, and funds are available, that's the time to build a bigger displacement motor.
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