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I heard a noise on my 09 Street Glide from the front after market custom wheel. It would whine in a leaning curve to the left or right. I was thinking bearing failure and scared the @#$% out of me. Made it to a dealer and telling them my story they took it in to get me back on my way. The Tech took it for test ride then checked the rotors, both are warped. Left rotor measured .019 out, right rotor measured .032 out of spec.(HD spec is .008). Bike has ABS. What causes the rotors to warp? I don't brake hard with the front, i use the front and rear together and most times gear the bike down. I checked my paperwork for pricing of the rotors and they were $500. To me that is lot of $ to have only had the rotors on for 13074 miles. Pads on the front by Lyndal with 12,292 miles.
Heat, crappy pads, excessive braking then letting bike sit right after, prying on them when changing tires, over torquing rotor bolts......lotta crap can warp rotors.
These are a pretty thin piece of metal that has a lot of heat generated onto them. The pads constantly have pressure, albeit light, and you impart more pressures and heat than you realize. a few heavy brake sessions and some cool water/splashes/mud puddles could be all it takes. If that were the only problem, I might have waited until i got home before I spent that much on the road. But then I'm an ex-auto mechanic and I don't worry about some of these things!
If possible, I'd have another dealer check if the rotors are really warped. I've had the same experience on a 2011 Ultra Classic, and the issue was cupping on the front and rear tires, not the rotors. The factory Dunlops are prone to cupping and making a bit of noise when you lean into the turns....
My '09 Electra Glide warped the rotors by 10K miles, the front wheel bearings were also bad. They started warping again at about 35K.
By contrast, my 05 Road Glide has 100,000 miles and original rotors and bearings. It would seem to me that HD is buying inferior parts from sub standard vendors.
These are a pretty thin piece of metal that has a lot of heat generated onto them. The pads constantly have pressure, albeit light, and you impart more pressures and heat than you realize. a few heavy brake sessions and some cool water/splashes/mud puddles could be all it takes. If that were the only problem, I might have waited until i got home before I spent that much on the road. But then I'm an ex-auto mechanic and I don't worry about some of these things!
I only spent $79.83 for labor to diagnose the problem. Now trying to figure if i will go back with those rotors and those pads or any combinations.
After using the front brakes coming to a stop, release the front brakes while sitting at the light. After stopping the heated brake pads will warp the rotors if left applied to one spot on the rotors. Had mine replaced at 4,000 miles under warranty. Been fine since using this method at stops.
I checked my paperwork for pricing of the rotors and they were $500.
I just took mine in to dealer insisting on new rotors. OEM stockers were $129 each not $500/pair. My dealer saved me the $$$ and just swapped sides. Worked great
I just took mine in to dealer insisting on new rotors. OEM stockers were $129 each not $500/pair. My dealer saved me the $$$ and just swapped sides. Worked great
The wheel and rotors are custom, not O E M and naturally would be more $$$$.
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