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tire pressure question

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Old May 2, 2022 | 11:43 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by treece883
Funny. Dunlop's site shows this exact same information (verbatim) today, just shy of eight years later. I had the same issues with it. Kind of shitty, Dunlop. Seriously.
There is nothing ambiguous about the way the tire pressure info is stated. The PSI on the sidewall is the max pressure that you should ever put in the tire. Depending on the weight and expected loads while mounted on a particular bike, the recommended pressure will likely be lower than that sidewall number (NEVER higher).

Higher pressures than recommended for a given weight are dangerous since the intended contact patch of the tire is not correct with too much pressure for a given weight.

 
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Old May 2, 2022 | 11:58 PM
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You guys are all missing one important statement from OPs first post. There's winter in AZ! 😎
 
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Old May 3, 2022 | 05:58 AM
  #43  
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Tyre pressure

Always inflate the tyre to the correct pressure. Be sure to check cold inflation pressure frequently, i.e. once a week. Although most motorcyclists love to work on their bikes, many seldom remember to check their bikes tyre pressures. Correct pressures are critical for safe handling. Over inflation or extreme tyre pressure will impair your riding comfort and decrease the size of the contact patch of the tyre with the road. Under inflation or too little air pressure will result in poor handling and the bike will be inclined to “wander”. Improper and insufficient tyre pressure will also cause rapid tyre wear, an increase in fuel consumption, lower top speed, and provide less control. Remember to check the inflation pressure of your tyres weekly. You will find the correct pressure in the operating manual of the motorcycle. Use Metzeler’s information only as reference. Attention: when the recommended pressure has been changed for use off the public highway (race track, off-road), it must be reset to the correct value before riding on the street.


From metzlers web site. Go by harleys pressures. Metzlers is just a guide.
 
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Old May 3, 2022 | 07:09 AM
  #44  
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40r - 36f
 
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Old May 3, 2022 | 10:53 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by foxtrapper
Tire pressure is a tuning tool. Adjust it for the tire, the load, and the driving conditions.

This guy knows. Sounds like a Haiku or poem

I adjust my pressures for my riding. If I'm carrying a big load, I use the settings on the frame. If Im riding solo, Im dropping the pressures to 33/38 F/R
 
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Old May 3, 2022 | 08:08 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by vizcarmb
This guy knows. Sounds like a Haiku or poem

I adjust my pressures for my riding. If I'm carrying a big load, I use the settings on the frame. If Im riding solo, Im dropping the pressures to 33/38 F/R
The right idea, but just how OCD are you? How did you determine your solo pressures? Just a wag or a manufacturer's chart? If by chart, how did you determine the load carried by each tire. Few of us have scales which go to 600 or 700 pounds or more to see what the actual load is on each tire. If you are one who has a scale and chart, what do you do if you see a friend on the side of the road and he asks for lift into town? Do you carry a pump so you can add enough pressure for his 190 pounds? How about if he buys a 5 gallon gas container and 5 gallons of gas? that is an additional 35 to 40 pounds, do you add even more pressure to your tires just to take him back to his vehicle? Do you let that much air out after your drop him off?

How accurate is your gauge? What if it shows 3 PSI MORE than what is actually in your tire? You are always 3 PSI UNDER inflated. What if your gauge shows 3 PSI LESS than what is in your tires? Now you are always 3 PSI OVER inflated. Just how complicated do you want your life to be? Is there a reasonable short cut or compromise? You reject the idea of using the max on the sidewall but that is the ONE figure that will safely handle all of the variations in load you are likely to encounter. Personally, that is the short cut I use. I just installed my second set of Michelin Commander IIs and I got over 22,000 trouble free miles out of the first set. As is always the case, your bike, your choice.

How does Harley decide on the recommended pressures? Did they assume a 150 pound rider, a 200 pound rider, or perhaps a 250 pound rider? How much "stuff" in the saddle bags? I don't remember them even specifying sole or two up. So, what is the "base line" and what is the adjustment factor for above and below that base line? Based on these questions, just how trustworthy is that "set in stone" book figure? Is this a case where logic and good judgement won't be tolerated?
 

Last edited by btsom; May 3, 2022 at 08:21 PM.
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Old May 3, 2022 | 08:35 PM
  #47  
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Low pressure is the leading cause of tire cupping…because the tire squirms.
 
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Old May 3, 2022 | 08:42 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by TriGeezer
Low pressure is the leading cause of tire cupping…because the tire squirms.
And tire failure from overheating. Counter intuitively, under inflation is a very common cause of blow outs and tire disintegration due to high heat buildup.
 
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Old May 3, 2022 | 09:13 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by btsom
The right idea, but just how OCD are you?
No need to go to the lengths and drama you rolled out. A tire gauge and a little notebook will do.

First off, if you want to take Harleys recommendations and stop there, that’s fine. It’ll work well enough almost all the time.

But, if you’re running different tires, or ride in very different ways, or just feel like twiddling, it’s not very complex.

Start stock, ride, make notes. Handling, ride quality, palm on tire for heat, tread wear appearance, etc. it’ll help if you keep working over a similar track as you do this.

Now bump it by 2psi or so. Repeat the ride and make the notes. Keep tweaking up and down. You’ll hit a limit in both directions that will be clearly degraded. Fine tuning is in between.

This can be pretty important to do when really changing tire types. Like going from bias ply to radials, or going up or down in size, or different load ratings. As well if grossly overloaded, or running on a race track.

You can quickly get in the ballpark this way, which is helpful when you’re doing something really odd. My 1952 MG running on modern radial tires for example. At 30 psi it skitters so badly as to be almost undriveable. Only took a few minutes to figure that out. 28 psi was better. 26 psi was better still. 24 psi felt similar. 22 psi and it started washing out. So after an hour or two of driving, I knew 24-26 psi was roughly right, with those particular tires.
 
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Old May 3, 2022 | 09:37 PM
  #50  
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Quote: "Start stock, ride, make notes. Handling, ride quality, palm on tire for heat, tread wear appearance,"

How much of a "ride" is needed to see variations in tread wear appearance etc. and for what does one look? What are the visual signs that 38 is too little for two up and 42 is too much for solo? This is your technique so you are the expert to teach the rest of us. In your example, handling was surprisingly sensitive to small variations in tire pressure, what else would you look for if handling had been about the same over a 20 psi range?
 
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