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I had a motor mount on my Jeep break once, it basically started tearing the rubber from vibration and eventually let go. Was driving off-road up a rocky hill and the motor fell out.
If there's a questionable rubber mount I change it now. After 12 years I imagine your bike is due for a once-over anyways. Pull it in the garage planning on changing the mounts, and while you're there inspect every other piece of rubber on the bike. Fuel line, brake line, etc. Lube the cables while you're at it. It'll cost a few hundred bucks at the most probably and you'll be good for another dozen years.
Same thing on my Power Duals on my 2014. I used the FB spacers they give you too.
I've tried centering the heat shield the best I can, but it still hits on a good bump in the road. the next thing is to tape it up and cut part of it away below the floor board and dab primer on the fresh cut so it does not rust.
Ok, just seeing all these replies. I'm at work and the manual is at home. How big of a job is it to replace the front mount? Put a jack under the motor just enough to support weight and unbolt it and put on a new one? The voltage reg needs to come off right? Urethane mount is interesting idea. What are the advantages over OEM? Thanks guys!
I had a similar problem with my 2012 after I put on a new exhaust system. I loosened it all up and with some adjustments, was able to find the clearance I needed.
The poly front engine mount will transfer more vibration to you butt, not noticeable after 100 miles or so then it becomes normal. Very easy to change, takes about an hour with some mechanical ability and a manual.
The poly front engine mount will transfer more vibration to you butt, not noticeable after 100 miles or so then it becomes normal. Very easy to change, takes about an hour with some mechanical ability and a manual.
I just watched the Glide Pro video and replacement seems to be pretty straight forward. If the poly mount transfers more vibration to the butt, why in the world would I want to use it?
Same thing on my Power Duals on my 2014. I used the FB spacers they give you too.
I've tried centering the heat shield the best I can, but it still hits on a good bump in the road. the next thing is to tape it up and cut part of it away below the floor board and dab primer on the fresh cut so it does not rust.
Power Duals on my '11, and no contact issues.
If your pipes are contacting the foot boards, something isn't aligned right.
Originally Posted by NDBadlands4-2
I had a similar problem with my 2012 after I put on a new exhaust system. I loosened it all up and with some adjustments, was able to find the clearance I needed.
+1
With everything installed correctly, and in good condition there should be zero contact between an exhaust system and any other part of the bike.
If there is, something isn't right. Might be possible to get a bad batch of pipes.
But these things are built in jigs from templates, and if one is bad there will be hundreds of them the same way.
A much higher possibility is an improper installation.
With the bike off I have about 3/8" clearance. With it idling the pipe guard "Knocks" on the floor board mount like you're hitting it with a hammer. Looks like my front mount is bad. Buddy has an 2011 limited and his motor doesn't shake nearly as bad as mine. Those Glidepro mounts seem to be the trick. Just saw a thread reviewing them.
the extra vibration felt with a urethane mount is minimal. when I switched to one I barely felt a difference and that's only because I was expecting it. I feel a little more vibration in the floorboards but the seat and bars are smooth at speed. Those who claim it causes excessive vibration usually don't have it installed correctly. the urethane mount is stiffer and therefore the idle shake is lessened. Mine has been in for 6 years and has no deterioration.
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