Trouble with cams
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Cruiser
Joined: Aug 2013
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From: Moore, OK
Trouble with cams
I recently did a cam upgrade to the Andrews 57H. I took it to the tuner and realized that my compression was too high (215 psi). he suggested that my cams were off a tooth. I pulled it all back down and reset the timing between the pinion sprocket and the rear cam sprocket. Now my compression in 155-160 psi on both cylinders and from what I have read about the 57's that is too low. Any reason why the compression would be that low? What else should I check? The picture is how they are currently set. The comp test was done with the ACR's unplugged and the butterfly open
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2012
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From: Atlanta, Georgia
Im confused as to why the tuner would tell you that. From what I remember when I did a compression bump on my 103, stock compression should be between 220 and 230 psi (maybe a little more or less). I think it was perfectly fine at 215 (based on my experience) and now im confused as to why its all the way down to 160. Take the cams back out and reinstall them. Also, check to make sure your ACRs are working properly (there is a procedure for this and a google search should help you locate it). Other than that, I have no idea what else it could be that would cause that. Is the cams and a stage I the only thing done to the bike???
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Cruiser
Joined: Aug 2013
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From: Moore, OK
He told me that because the bike was only making 80hp. We drained the sump and there was a normal amount of oil there. He checked the compression and said it was too high. Yes, just exhaust intake and cams. My compression tester is from harbor freight. I'm going to run up to sears and get a better gauge just to make sure.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Virginia Beach
Something is odd there...
When you "reset the timing" were the teeth off?
if that is how your cams were installed they look right. Were the pushrods adjusted right? I would think if it was a tooth off it would run like ****. I had a dyno tuner do something similar to me years ago, and found out after the fact they didnt know what they were doing. My computer saw my throttle at a quarter turn when it was at idle....
When you "reset the timing" were the teeth off?
if that is how your cams were installed they look right. Were the pushrods adjusted right? I would think if it was a tooth off it would run like ****. I had a dyno tuner do something similar to me years ago, and found out after the fact they didnt know what they were doing. My computer saw my throttle at a quarter turn when it was at idle....
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 2,248
Likes: 7
From: Atlanta, Georgia
Something is odd there...
When you "reset the timing" were the teeth off?
if that is how your cams were installed they look right. Were the pushrods adjusted right? I would think if it was a tooth off it would run like ****. I had a dyno tuner do something similar to me years ago, and found out after the fact they didnt know what they were doing. My computer saw my throttle at a quarter turn when it was at idle....
When you "reset the timing" were the teeth off?
if that is how your cams were installed they look right. Were the pushrods adjusted right? I would think if it was a tooth off it would run like ****. I had a dyno tuner do something similar to me years ago, and found out after the fact they didnt know what they were doing. My computer saw my throttle at a quarter turn when it was at idle....
Cruiser
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 212
Likes: 1
From: Florida Space Coast
If you had the cam chest open, did you also check the cams themselves? There are timing marks there also? The picture shows only the crank/cam timing.
Still, as mentioned before, it would really run like crap if any of the teeth were set wrong.
I just installed the same cam in my '12 and it runs awesome.
As for the push rod adjustment, when I install a cam with as much overlap as these do, I prefer to adjust each valve independently, not each cylinder. That way you will have each lobe at its bottom most area. PM me if you want the directions. It us similar to the factory way but takes into account the overlap.
Still, as mentioned before, it would really run like crap if any of the teeth were set wrong.
I just installed the same cam in my '12 and it runs awesome.
As for the push rod adjustment, when I install a cam with as much overlap as these do, I prefer to adjust each valve independently, not each cylinder. That way you will have each lobe at its bottom most area. PM me if you want the directions. It us similar to the factory way but takes into account the overlap.
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 169
Likes: 0
From: Moore, OK
Something is odd there...
When you "reset the timing" were the teeth off?
if that is how your cams were installed they look right. Were the pushrods adjusted right? I would think if it was a tooth off it would run like ****. I had a dyno tuner do something similar to me years ago, and found out after the fact they didnt know what they were doing. My computer saw my throttle at a quarter turn when it was at idle....
When you "reset the timing" were the teeth off?
if that is how your cams were installed they look right. Were the pushrods adjusted right? I would think if it was a tooth off it would run like ****. I had a dyno tuner do something similar to me years ago, and found out after the fact they didnt know what they were doing. My computer saw my throttle at a quarter turn when it was at idle....
Last edited by RedGlide12; Jul 2, 2014 at 03:24 PM.
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Cruiser
Joined: Aug 2013
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From: Moore, OK
I don't trust the comp tester I am using. I am going to borrow a good one and check it again later, I had to put the charger on the battery it was getting weak.
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Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2012
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From: Atlanta, Georgia
Well, rough and "lopey" are two different things. Rough is the bike running and having you scared. Lopey is just how it idles. My bike runs "lopey" and ran that way at the initial start up prior to installing the tune. It still runs lopey like mentioned above and thats a characteristic of the cams. Like I mentioned before, the only real way to tell if everything is okay is to tear back into the cam chest and make sure all is lined up correctly. Until that point, everything that we mention or talk about is purely speculation.
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Cruiser
Joined: Aug 2013
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From: Moore, OK
I will go back through it again and double check everything and see what I come up with. The bike was not running scarry bad (to me) but it is my first cam swap so I didnt really know what to expect. There was nothing alarming but it deffinatly runs better after I put it back together the second time.