This one has me totally stumped. Riding down the road on my 01 Road Glide when my directionals start flashing like crazy and then the bike died. When I finally got it home, the ECM, lights and security fuses were blown. When I replaced the fuse for the lights, it immediately blew again. Removed radio and fuse didn't blow. BUT my real problem is the bike won't crank. The directionals won't work, so I can't check security codes that way, the security key light doesn't come on (ck engine light does tho, but no codes). All of my tracing circuits indicates that the TS/TSSM might be out to lunch.

So two questions here. How can the TS/TSSM be tested? (if that's even possible) and, if it needs to be replaced, can a used one be used? Oh yeah, due the fobs come into this somewhere?

Of course, this all begs the reason that this happened in the first place.

Any help and/or ideas would be greatly appreciated.



Since this last post I have been slowly becoming acquainted with the electrical innards of my '01 Road Glide. And I've learned a couple of things and need to revise the above (*never* attempt to explain after a long day of working on the bike and assorted beers, etc.).

The fuses that were blown, and don't blow anymore, were the ECU, lights and radio memory. I also discovered that every light that was on at the time was blown! So, I'm wondering what could have produced such a surge (the bike was under full acceleration at the time). When I replaced the bulbs, I discovered that the r & f parking lights were on & the ignition wasn't. So I pulled out my trusty multimeter and began looking for the short. The trace lead me back to the TS/TSSM; Other items, to include the starter relay (which I tested and found good) didn't work, also implicated the TS/TSSM. Called the stealer who informed me that I couldn't just bring the TS/TSSM, but had to bring in the bike. Nothing new there. Went to my downloaded electric service manual where I found the following under "STARTING SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS".

The reference numbers below correlate with the circled numbers in the starter system flow charts.

1. See VOLTAGE DROPS under 1.4 DIAGNOSTICS/TROUBLESHOOTING.

2. Remove starter motor. Connect jumper wires as described under FREE RUNNING CURRENT DRAW TEST on page 1-12.

3. Remove TSSM and use HARNESS CONNECTOR TEST KIT (Part No. HD-41404) to short Pin 9 on connector [30] to ground. If starter motor cranks, replace TSSM.
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My first reaction was "what the he**". So, after going to the "FREE RUNNING CURRENT DRAW TEST" (which has you remove the starter) and looking at the supplied diagram I realized that there wasn't any real difference between this arduous method and the stock setup. I turned on my ignition, shorted pin 9 to ground, and pressed the start switch. This provided the final death knell for the TS/TSSM, because the starter did crank. So this is a real easy method for testing the black box.

As to the initial cause of all this: I would like to hear from the community as to what might have caused the voltage spike that blew everything. All ideas are welcome.

Thanks.