Cam change tool question
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Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 70
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From: SC
Cam change tool question
I know this is a beat to death topic around here, but I can't seem to find the exact answer I'm looking for.
Aside from the inner bearing puller/installer tool and the sprocket locker, are there any specialty tools required to do a cam swap on a 2001 Road King?
All the threads I can find are talking about the newer models with the hydraulic cam plates and I wanted to make sure there isn't a difference that I'm missing.
Aside from the inner bearing puller/installer tool and the sprocket locker, are there any specialty tools required to do a cam swap on a 2001 Road King?
All the threads I can find are talking about the newer models with the hydraulic cam plates and I wanted to make sure there isn't a difference that I'm missing.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,928
Likes: 69
From: Near Myrtle Beach, SC
Of course your service manual will tell you about all the tools you will need as you go through the steps. I cannot emphasize enough the importance of a quality set of torque wrenches...one for inch pounds and one for foot pounds. And, $39 torque wrenches are not used in the same sentence with the word "quality". Good luck with the change-out.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 28,549
Likes: 3,954
From: Vermont
Something to change inner bearings. All else can be worked around. Can unload tensioners with a box end wrench and screwdriver, can lock cams with a rag/wood, can use freezer/oven method for the cam plate bearings, etc.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 2,630
Likes: 185
From: Mountain West, Big Sky Country
The tool to change the bearing, the tool to lock the cams, torque wrenches and a manual will get you through the change. I would also suggest a credit card if you don't have these minimums. That will pay for any screw ups.
Don't re use the O rings replace them. If you cut push rods use bolt cutters not something that generates debris.
This might help.
http://www.wildwestcycle.com/f_camchange.html
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,928
Likes: 69
From: Near Myrtle Beach, SC
You are not the first to take this minimalist approach my friend. If you are going to take shortcuts, improvise tools and guess at torques, I wish you the best of luck.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 2,090
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Just a helpful tip, use 2 orings on the oil pump spout where it goes in the case. Little bit of insurance.....
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 3,236
Likes: 95
From: lancaster, pa
push rod cover tool, dont need it but shure worked pretty slick
not necessary if you dont care about scratching up your bike,wasting your time,and bloody knuckles, you can skip the inner bearing tool aswell
not necessary if you dont care about scratching up your bike,wasting your time,and bloody knuckles, you can skip the inner bearing tool aswell
Last edited by voodoodrug; Jul 13, 2014 at 09:15 PM.
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Road Master
Joined: May 2009
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From: TN
Good practical advice..we all appreciate that.
HDF Community Team
Joined: Nov 2012
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From: USA
I know this is a beat to death topic around here, but I can't seem to find the exact answer I'm looking for.
Aside from the inner bearing puller/installer tool and the sprocket locker, are there any specialty tools required to do a cam swap on a 2001 Road King?
All the threads I can find are talking about the newer models with the hydraulic cam plates and I wanted to make sure there isn't a difference that I'm missing.
Aside from the inner bearing puller/installer tool and the sprocket locker, are there any specialty tools required to do a cam swap on a 2001 Road King?
All the threads I can find are talking about the newer models with the hydraulic cam plates and I wanted to make sure there isn't a difference that I'm missing.
I made the little tool for pulling the inner tensioner, all in hopes of not pulling the cams. Since the cams all but fall out and in, it was a wasted effort. Just use a wrench or pliers to rotate the tensioner, hold it with an Allen wrench. Drop the cams, and use the pliers again on the tensioners, drop the Allen wrench, and let the tensioner relax. Lift it out.
I used the shoe kit, so instead of replacing the whole tensioner assembly, I replaced only the shoes. Kit includes a little jig to drive the old pins out, and to peen over the new.
No sprocket lock was needed. Transmission did just fine to hold things enough for removal or assembly.