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Does anybody know what the battery should be at start up, been dealing with a almost starter not fully disengaging or is it something else, my voltage drop is 10.4 on start up, I have a 2011 road king classic, it also has 30,000 on it.
That's about right, but if your getting a momentary delay while trying to start it, it's the battery getting ready to quit. I had the same problem, the voltage was right where I needed it but was experiencing what appeared to be a compression pause. At first it was occasional, then it was every time I tried to start it. Replacing the battery took care of the problem.
Check that your battery terminals are clean and tight, at both ends. Also check your charging system, which includes getting your battery load tested. Details are available on two Stickies in the Tech Electrical section.
Check that your battery terminals are clean and tight, at both ends ... Excellent advice here. Many guys have beaten their heads ( and tools ) against the wall over some very basic and quite simple fixes.
2.) a motor always stops on the compression stroke - always
without compression releases ( like the 96", 95", 88", 80" 74" etc.) when you try to start the piston is at the highest point of compression.
simply flick the starter button- this will either push the piston past TDC or it'll rebound back down the bore, either way when the starter button is again pressed, the motor can build a little rotational momentum before the next compression stroke.
on a 103" this is moot as the motor has automatic compression releases
IF you hear a whining from the starter and it's not turning- let go the button- this is the windings burning up
and indicates low voltage/current...not enough power to turn the starter, but enough to burn up the starter motor windings
if your battery is over 4 years old, it's probably time for replacement anyhow. Battery should read 12.5v or more, at rest. Your charging system should be putting out a minimum 13.8v at fast idle or "highway" speed. Anything below 10v on cranking is usually indicative of a failing battery. Your battery will usually give you a couple of warning signs if you "listen" to it. And I would spend the $125 for the HD AGM stock battery. I have found those to be a wise choice!!
When I picked up bike from florida the whole way home every once in awhile the alarm lights would go on, make a long story short by the time I got home the battery was dead, so I had to jump start it and I should have put the battery on a charger rather than a tender , anyway the battery is on its 4 year so its do.
running with a dead battery can take out the charging system.
once you get a new battery ( and charge it fully before install- with a charger- not a "tender") you can check the charging system easily.
there is a how to in the electrical section of the tech board
many of us use the Big Krank, about $100 delivered from batterymart. mine came through amazon
2.) a motor always stops on the compression stroke - always
without compression releases ( like the 96", 95", 88", 80" 74" etc.) when you try to start the piston is at the highest point of compression.
simply flick the starter button- this will either push the piston past TDC or it'll rebound back down the bore, either way when the starter button is again pressed, the motor can build a little rotational momentum before the next compression stroke.
on a 103" this is moot as the motor has automatic compression releases
IF you hear a whining from the starter and it's not turning- let go the button- this is the windings burning up
and indicates low voltage/current...not enough power to turn the starter, but enough to burn up the starter motor windings
mike
Mike, before I replaced my battery the compression stroke pause was during mid-crank and intermittent then became routine, almost like it wasn't going to turn over again. Once, I replaced the battery I don't have any compression stroke hesitation or pause at all. It turns over and fires right up now.
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