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Old Sep 4, 2014 | 12:33 PM
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rtreftz
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I have a 2007 Roadglide with 32k miles. It seems my clutch slips occasionally. What is the expected clutch life. I had the dealer do a dyno tune last month. I would have thought they would have noticed something wrong.
 
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Old Sep 4, 2014 | 12:38 PM
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corliss@bakerdrivetrain.com's Avatar
corliss@bakerdrivetrain.com
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All depends on how you use your clutch, some guys get 50,000 some guys can't get 20,000.
 
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Old Sep 4, 2014 | 12:41 PM
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The clutch in my hiPo FXR lasted to about 45000 miles- the first 35000 were with the CHP- so just guess what they did to it.
Replaced with barnett Kevlar in 1992...and still running it at about 88,000 miles now.

The stock clutch is still in my 1995 FLHTC ( stage 1) and I sold it at 82,000 miles- new owner still riding no problems that he's told me about.

the clutch life depends more on correctly adjustment.

any slipping is only going to get worse as slipping damages the plates and steel disks ability to transfer power


a dyno run is typically getting a bike up to a rolling speed ( say 40 mph) in 4th and going full throttle to redline.
that will show the power delivery from about 2200 to 5800 rpms
( there are other methods- it's over 20 years since I bothered having any of my bikes on the dyno...38 HP for the '53 FL !...in which the clutch is 61 years old now)


a dyno run may reveal something that was going to go, but if there are cooling fans and the dyno drum itself is rolling with correct resistance it shouldn;t cause any problems

mike
 

Last edited by mkguitar; Sep 4, 2014 at 12:44 PM.
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Old Sep 4, 2014 | 12:42 PM
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Fluid and proper adjustment has a lot to do with it as well.
 
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Old Sep 4, 2014 | 11:17 PM
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I have had bad clutch on a dirt bike years ago and clutch slipped taking off. This seems to be loose at hard acceleration. It does not slip taking off. Does this make sense or is it in my head?
 
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Old Sep 8, 2014 | 11:55 AM
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So, when clutch slips is it at take off or during acceleration.
 
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Old Sep 8, 2014 | 12:10 PM
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In 2007 H-D put in a very light diaphragm spring to make the clutch pull even lighter. Unfortunately this spring really is insufficient pressure on the clutch, especially if packing a load or running 2 up a lot. Result is the clutch may end up slipping under harder torque. If the clutch is not gone too far, you can try a clutch spring for the police bikes or even the 103 bikes as those have higher pressure, yet still are pretty easy to use the lever with. If the fiber discs are worn thinner than specifications then even a heavier spring may not help a whole lot.
 
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Old Sep 8, 2014 | 12:21 PM
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Over 53,000 on my flhp with S.E. spring and clutch plates are still in spec.
 
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Old Sep 8, 2014 | 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Guntoter
In 2007 H-D put in a very light diaphragm spring to make the clutch pull even lighter. Unfortunately this spring really is insufficient pressure on the clutch, especially if packing a load or running 2 up a lot. Result is the clutch may end up slipping under harder torque. If the clutch is not gone too far, you can try a clutch spring for the police bikes or even the 103 bikes as those have higher pressure, yet still are pretty easy to use the lever with. If the fiber discs are worn thinner than specifications then even a heavier spring may not help a whole lot.
Another option is the SE spring. Also, set up and fluid make a big difference. I don't go more then 1/2 turn out and use a 10w40 mc racing.
 
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Old Sep 8, 2014 | 02:18 PM
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Originally Posted by SafetyMan
Fluid and proper adjustment has a lot to do with it as well.


I was thinking the same thing. Check the adjustment, that will tell something right there. JR
 
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