That bike, if it is an Ultra, came with an oil cooler all ready installed from the factory. I know I have a 2011 FLTRU in black and it is hot most all the time. I'm running true duals with the stage one download and Screaming Eagle ham can intake. The times it get seriously hot is when the vent doors on the lowers creep closed and heat will run you off the bike. Mine wouldn't stay closed even after I tightened them a bunch. Took it back to the dealer and they tightened them up even more. We will see if that helps. Might be nice in the winter though...

 

BigBrainBob - Following this thread with interest, as recently I started having growing concern about the same problem. Opening the lower vent on the right side helped, but I seem to have a lot of heat coming off the rear head. I'm on a 13 FLHTK, with recently installed (June) FM SS head pipe, Slash mufflers, and FM high flow air intake. Running the FM map (seems great the way it runs), but about to do an autotune with the DynaJet Vision to see if that will help, wondering if the map is off. Another thing I noted. The chrome on the exhaust pipe on the right side, just behind where it slides into the head pipe is yellowing due to heat.

I don't have an oil temp gauge but found this thread reading about and considering replacing the useless air temp gauge with an oil temp gauge. And had considered using an IR temp gun to measure head temps but hadn't gotten there yet. When you measured the rear head temp, did you compare to the front? 320 seems high.

Anyway, thanks for posting. I'm really interested in what you find out.

Mark

 

Ok. Than something has indeed changed.

Let's start with you, did you do anything to the bike just before the heat change? New fairing, installed lowers, relocated floorboards, tune up, different gasoline, anything?

Next would be an abrupt change in the bike, most likely the engine. This may not trip a code. Things like a temperature sensor or an O2 sensor reading incorrectly, collapsed air filter, vacuum hose breakage, etc.

 

Only thing I can think of is the O2 sensors may be crossed. Only takes a few seconds to find out. The front sensor goes to the Gray Plug and Back is Black. If crossed they will definitely lean it out soon as it warms up to closed loop temp which is pretty low usually around 75 degrees. If not crossed you can unhook them on your model without putting in the jumpers and check and see if that makes a difference. It won't hurt anything. It will set a silent code that can be reset easily. The O2's will only make it leaner, so may help some. Bad O2's or crossed will cause havoc on the mixture. Also make sure no intake leaks like the vacuum plug on top of the throttle body missing. Check the rear plug and it will show if it is that lean. Can have flakes of gray (very bad) or have a greenish tint if too lean. May also bubble the glue around the electrode. It will be pretty white normally, so that doesn't necessarily mean it is too lean.

 

The FM SS ceramic lined 2-1-2 headers did reduce the right side heat dramatically for me. I added their 4" Jackpots. powervision and stage one at the same time. I made sure the O2 sensors were correctly re-installed as I had been told (by FM on on this forum?) that heat issues would arise if I got them backwards.

Heat was not removed, but it was reduced to acceptable levels. So much so that I do not even think about it unless idling in 90F+ temps. I have soft lowers so they are off all summer. One thing I did notice (happened worse before the header change) was that when I put my heel up on the hwy pegs and thighs against the tank, heat gets trapped under my thigh. This does not happen when the boot arch is on the peg. I have saddlebag guard bags and the right one seems to trap the heat on the right side. Bike was cooler before adding that bag, but I like them there so I am living with the heat when I feel I need to put my heel on the hwy peg. I don't like the way my foot angles out riding like that, so I only use that extreme stretch briefly and only on long rides when a different position can feel like a minute in heaven.

Check your O2 sensors
Check that your lowers are not restricting airflow
Check and try removing a saddlebag guard bag if you have one to see if the heats is carried away faster.
We are all different shaped, seat height, seat width all matter. If the factory stock heat shields are too small, try larger ones, Like Doctor Itch. While you cannot eliminate the heat, you should be able to get it to tolerable levels, even in the 115F desert heat of Eastern Oregon and Washington. Summer traffic jams...forget it. Wear asbestos jeans.

 

Remove the lowers and feel the difference. I sold mine and have never looked back. I keep soft lowers rolled up in the saddlebag for rain or cold. FWIW my bike is ''warm''as well.