103 Engine Modifications
Thanks in advance for your help here....my hubby hates computers so that's why I'm doing this
This is what I added with the 107" kit: "B" heads done by FuelMoto, Woods 555 cams, Fueling HP+ oil pump, Zippers HiFlo air cleaner, FuelMoto headpipe, ThunderMax tuner, Torrington inner cam bearings.
There are variations to the above , those are just what I did with excellent results.
In addition I swapped out the primary drive pulley from 32 tooth to 30 tooth, that alone will boost the "performance" even on a stock TG. ( The 30 tooth pulley is now stock on '11 and up TGs).
Another thing to do for ride comfort is add a lift kit for the rear end , it will allow you to reduce shock pressure so they can give you some cushion and keeps the pipes from draging on occasion. The lift kits are sold by DK Custom Products and TGlide stuff.
Good luck on your search.
Last edited by icebite1; Aug 14, 2013 at 06:49 AM.
Thanks in advance for your help here....my hubby hates computers so that's why I'm doing this

What is is his expectations and wants for his Triglide for over all power?
Plan on riding long distance or trailering and or riding local?
Stage 4 103 kit >> Dont waste the money. The components with the kit are not a good fit and dont produce the power claimed without additional work. Plus, it is not designed for a trike in mind
120R crate engine, needs a cam change before its up and running in a trike and there is no warranty from Harley at all. The cams in the engine are not designed for torque in the rpm range we ride in
S&S T124" Low Compression crate engine. A one year warranty from S&S on the engine. A good overall engine package that would give you loads of power for a trike
With this being said I want to emphasize something that is very critical with riding a bike/trike with a 120" or 124" engine. These engines by design need to be ridden in a higher rpm range before shifting to the next higher gear to prevent lugging the engine and doing possible damage to it.
To plainly put it if you continually ride the tirke in a gear higher than 2nd in lower the rpms 2200 or lower dont expect the engine to last. These long stroke engines need at least 400-500 higher rpms than the current stroke you have in your 103"
There is another option for building a very strong engine for a trike that uses your existing stroke and that would be to build a custom 117" engine. If you want more info send me a pm and I will respond with what I know
Just so you know my knowledge comes from starting with a 103" engine then building a 117" and now running a 124"
Tom
Last edited by FLTR2008TRIKE; Aug 14, 2013 at 10:16 AM.
Thanks in advance for your help here....my hubby hates computers so that's why I'm doing this

That being said, if you are going to change out the engine I would also recommend an S&S engine in a heartbeat over the Harley. If Harley built it. Harley has a notorious bad weak bottom end.
Just a thought though, You didn't mention if the front drive sprocket has been changed out to a 30 tooth in place of a 32 tooth. That one mod will make a whole different power band for the trike. Harley had put on the 32 tooth on the trikes until the '11's came out. Then they went with the 30 tooth. Worth a look !
Last edited by oldmsocko; Aug 14, 2013 at 06:45 PM.
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He is thinking of having the screaming eagle heavy breather kit installed soon.
I wish he'd just be satisfied with what he has! lol The fastest we ride over here on the island is about 70, 75 mph. It's usually just tooling around the city at around 40-50 mph. Maybe he's going thru a phase since his diagnosis....trying to compensate.
As for "lumpy", the mechanic said it's like when you are in a logging truck and it's idling very rough and the whole vehicle is vibrating and jarring your bones. Haha! He said high compression motors will do that. Well, my hubby has a very tender body since surgery, so I know he won't want a rough, lumpy ride!
Good night all.....thanks again!



