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Thanks for the info. I'll run the numbers again, I don't think that route is cost effective. IMHO, I don't think HD headers get enough credit, they're decent at the very least. Hence, slip ons at half the cost of complete exhaust. Except for the fact of no O2 sensors. I'll look into welding bungs in the existing pipes. And being as I'm in CA (So Cal, Orange County), will, for example, Vance & Hines, upload maps for me when I get to Stage 2? I reached out to them as I like the FuelPak, they have yet to respond.
With changes I will be making in the next year or so, dyno tune is just too costly in the long run. I want the ability to auto tune when I make changes, my understanding is the tuning is pretty reliable. Not a dyno, I get it, but not $400-$500 a pop either. It's just a bit confusing, I'm still learning!
Thanks Warrior, you're the first to mention the lack of O2's is an issue. Which leads to a question: how does a dyno tune perform, there still are no sensors? Does the ECM get "fooled" into thinking sensors are there? A qualified tuner knows how to manipulate the program in some form or fashion to get a legit tune? O2 sensors on the twin cam 88 came about in 2007 (I think), and this year's (2006) model was the first non O2 sensor EFI motor. And the first thing we want to do is exhaust/intake to get her breathing better, the only option would be to install complete exhaust with sensors, then flash Tuning becomes a possibility? I hope I'm making sense, again, just trying to get some education and understand the best route to take for now and future upgrades. I will be changing cams (low to mid range torque), get rid of the spring tensioners and upgrade to a high flow oil pump, that's about all the future changes in store.
Auto tune works by setting the fuel table to a constant and measuring the reading from the O2 sensors to calculate VE, all other tables use VE to make their calculations so getting VE correct is the most important part of the tuning process and thats why its done first. All of the devices mentioned are just "interfaces" to be able to change tables in the ECM. A dyno has its own sensors and software to monitor the machine your running on it. In your case you would use the information the dyno provides to make the changes to your map and then use whatever device to program the appropriate changes.On a bike such as yours the operator would use a tailpipe probe (some call it a sniffer) or a type of O2 sensor such as a Herko block or something similar. This is a very simplistic explanation but I hope it gives you a little insight to the tuning process
There is no "fooling" the ECM with a dyno tune, your ECM is programmed to exactly how your bike should run, when you use a competent dyno tuner.
Bikes not originally equipped with O2 sensors will run off the tables only, bikes with O2 sensors use the readings to make sure the tables are providing the correct fuel and can make small adjustments when necessary, again a very simple explanation for a complicated process
Replacing the exhaust with a full system with O2 sensors in lieu of maintaining the OEM head pipe with slipons was suggested in post #15. O2 bungs can be welded into the OEM head pipe and the two tuners in my area can install riv nuts for the sensors that are sealed with scres and copper washers after tuning.
Fat11Lo has provided a good explanation of how dyno tuning works. Regardless of whatever upgrades the OP plans, O2 bungs should be installed to allow either a dyno tune or using a fuel management system like the TTS Mastertune or the DJ Power Vision which both have the auto tune feature which allows self tuning. JMHO but $200 for a PV license and $400 for a dyno tune isn't going be much different from purchasing the PV hardware/software and auto (self) tuning, so cost should not be an issue. However, if access to a competent dyno tuner is an issue, the auto tune might make more sense.
Thanks Warrior, you're the first to mention the lack of O2's is an issue. Which leads to a question: how does a dyno tune perform, there still are no sensors? Does the ECM get "fooled" into thinking sensors are there? A qualified tuner knows how to manipulate the program in some form or fashion to get a legit tune? O2 sensors on the twin cam 88 came about in 2007 (I think), and this year's (2006) model was the first non O2 sensor EFI motor. And the first thing we want to do is exhaust/intake to get her breathing better, the only option would be to install complete exhaust with sensors, then flash Tuning becomes a possibility? I hope I'm making sense, again, just trying to get some education and understand the best route to take for now and future upgrades. I will be changing cams (low to mid range torque), get rid of the spring tensioners and upgrade to a high flow oil pump, that's about all the future changes in store.
They sick a probe up the *** end, or use tuning block which pokes small holes in the pipe..
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