Help!!!!
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1st Gear
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Help!!!!
Hi All, okay went to pick up my 07 V-Rod. Bought from private party. Bike has been sitting for two months. Has 126 miles on it. Bike wouldn't start so jump started it. Started up after a few seconds. Left cables hooked up for about 10 minutes. As soon as I pulled off the jumper cables, bike died instantly. Did the same thing three times. Can a battery die that fast and not hold any charge? Do I just put in a new battery? Thanks for your help in advance!!
FrostMan
FrostMan
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RE: Help!!!!
One of two things is happening here, either the battery is sulfated and will not take a charge from sitting discharged for a period of time or the alternator / regulator is not putting out a charge (more likely). It should run on the alternator once the bike is started and you disconnect the cables, just not restart if the battery is bad.
Check out the charging system and verify the condition of the battery with a load test once it is charged properly.
It takes a low charging rate for an extended period of time 24-48 hours on trickle charge to bubble the sulfate off the plates if it is that causing the problem. Sulfate occurs from a period of non use and non charge but can be reversed if done properly like stated above.
Check out the charging system and verify the condition of the battery with a load test once it is charged properly.
It takes a low charging rate for an extended period of time 24-48 hours on trickle charge to bubble the sulfate off the plates if it is that causing the problem. Sulfate occurs from a period of non use and non charge but can be reversed if done properly like stated above.
Road Captain
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RE: Help!!!!
The V-Rod will not run when the battery is extremely weak. You will either need to charge it up or get a new battery. I would try a battery charger like the HD batter tender that will shut off when fully charged. That should fix you up. I have seen this a 1000 times.
Also, go to www.vrodforums.com for the best in V-Rod info.
Also, go to www.vrodforums.com for the best in V-Rod info.
Road Warrior
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RE: Help!!!!
The stator is meant to run at more of an RPM than the 1000-1200 that the bike idles at, and therefore will not be putting out a lot of current. Try a trickle-charging maintainer first (you should have a maintainer anyways for possible storage of anything longer than a week IMO), but don't be surprised if the battery is shot and you have to replace it. Small batteries like that are generally gone once their gone. Good luck and let us know.
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1st Gear
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RE: Help!!!!
Thanks for the advice everyone. I have had the trickle charger on it for about 30 hours now and nothing! The headlight doesn't even come on. Guess I am going to have to replace the battery. And that looks like a pain in the #$%!
Frostman
Frostman
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RE: Help!!!!
It's really not.
Take off the airbox cover by turning the bail-head fastener that is under the seat 1/4 turn (counter-clockwise I think--it won't turn the other way)
Remove the airbox lid by unsnapping the 5 clips (one on back and four on the sides), and the front clip (which is easiest to unclip with a screwdriver. It unclips up, not down like the rest)
Unclip the strap that holds down the battery and slide it out. If you have problems sliding it out, you may have to remove the airbox bottom by removing the air-cleaner (one thumb screw on top) unscrewing the six bolts that hold down the velocity stacks (three each) and removing the rear-cylinder breather hose at the back. When putting it back together, make sure the front breather is inserted and make sure you replace the hose at the back or your engine will be covered in oil and you'll think you blew a seal. Don't ask me how I know this.
You'll need a 5mm Allen wrench, flat-blade screwdriver, a pair of pliers, and 3-10 minutes. It's really not that hard.
Take off the airbox cover by turning the bail-head fastener that is under the seat 1/4 turn (counter-clockwise I think--it won't turn the other way)
Remove the airbox lid by unsnapping the 5 clips (one on back and four on the sides), and the front clip (which is easiest to unclip with a screwdriver. It unclips up, not down like the rest)
Unclip the strap that holds down the battery and slide it out. If you have problems sliding it out, you may have to remove the airbox bottom by removing the air-cleaner (one thumb screw on top) unscrewing the six bolts that hold down the velocity stacks (three each) and removing the rear-cylinder breather hose at the back. When putting it back together, make sure the front breather is inserted and make sure you replace the hose at the back or your engine will be covered in oil and you'll think you blew a seal. Don't ask me how I know this.
You'll need a 5mm Allen wrench, flat-blade screwdriver, a pair of pliers, and 3-10 minutes. It's really not that hard.
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1st Gear
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RE: Help!!!!
Thanks. Got the new battery at the Harley dealer. Took the bike apart....took out the old battery....then realized that the Harley parts guy gave me the wrong battery! I was just a little upset to say the least. Now tomorrow back to the Harley dealer...yell at them a little ....then back to put the bike back together. I sure hope that the whole "Harley Ezperience" gets better!!!!
Frostman
Frostman
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RE: Help!!!!
Update: Got the new battery in. Started with the first push of the starter button. Went for my first ride. Very nice! Has much more power than I thought it would. Now tonight I will sit in my garage and clean and polish all the chrome. The girlfriend is going to love that! Oh well. Anyway, thanks for all your help and support. Now let me ask you this. For more power, what is the best bang for the buck? I know you would lose alot of weight with new ezhaust, but don't want it to be too loud. Thanks!!!!
Frostman
Frostman
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RE: Help!!!!
Traditionally, 2 into 1 systems will give you the best performance, like Thunderheader or CFR. Both can be loud though. Because your definition of acceptable noise and mine may differ, your best bet would be to listen to the pipes in real life situations. Rather than trying to find every pipe to listen to, figure out which you like and then search for a sound bite. Try these sound bites
You will also need something to modulate the fuel curve as well, such as a SE flash (dealer), SE Tuner or Fueler, PowerCommander, CFR Tuner, TFI...........................
You will also need something to modulate the fuel curve as well, such as a SE flash (dealer), SE Tuner or Fueler, PowerCommander, CFR Tuner, TFI...........................
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