mushy front brakes
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 298
Likes: 1
From: Dover DE
HOLY CRAP
Stroker...You are the man.
I know it's been a few weeks since I posted this, but finally got off my *** and cleaned the front calipers yesterday. The difference is utterly unbeleivable. As a mechanic for 20+ years I would have never thought it possible, but it worked. Front brakes are rock hard and perform 10X better. I guess I will have to add this procedure to my semi annual maintence I already do. Only problem is...now the front brakes are squealing again.
Re'
Stroker...You are the man.
I know it's been a few weeks since I posted this, but finally got off my *** and cleaned the front calipers yesterday. The difference is utterly unbeleivable. As a mechanic for 20+ years I would have never thought it possible, but it worked. Front brakes are rock hard and perform 10X better. I guess I will have to add this procedure to my semi annual maintence I already do. Only problem is...now the front brakes are squealing again.
Re'
Thread Starter
|
Tourer
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 298
Likes: 1
From: Dover DE
Re'
Road Master
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 986
Likes: 3
From: Texas
This will fix them... I guarantee it. Take off one caliper at a time, double over a piece of cardboard from a box and slide it between the pads on the caliper that is off. Now pump the heck out of the brake lever until it pumps up tight. Purchase a can of spray brake cleaner from an auto parts store.. Now spray the caliper pistons down real well cleaning off all brake dust and grime.. Now pull out the cardboard and either using a large screwdriver or puddy knife between the pads spread them until the pistons you just cleaned are fully retracted into the bore. Re-install it and torque the bolts 28 - 38 ft lbs. Now do the other side exactly the same way. After both are installed pump up the brake, you are going to be amazed at the differance. Use Dot 5 fluid in that 2001 bike. You don't need the Dot 4.
Let me know how this turns out. I fix a lot of them with this method and my customers can't beleive it.Stroker
Let me know how this turns out. I fix a lot of them with this method and my customers can't beleive it.Stroker
I did this procedure this (Saturday) morning.I was tired of the mushy lever for the last 1.5 years.
AMAZING UNBELIEVEABLE
The front brake is now how you would/should expect it to be. And such an easy fix too !
Thanks Stroker !!!
Road Warrior
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,423
Likes: 775
From: Ponte Vedra Beach FL
I dug up this old thread while searching for a cure for my front brakes. Worked like a charm also took care of the constant scraping noise I had when not applying the brakes. Before cleaning the pistons you could see them extend then retract right back where they were. After cleaning they extended a little at a time and stayed there.Thanks great tip.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 2,095
Likes: 11
From: Central Illinois
This will fix them... I guarantee it. Take off one caliper at a time, double over a piece of cardboard from a box and slide it between the pads on the caliper that is off. Now pump the heck out of the brake lever until it pumps up tight. Purchase a can of spray brake cleaner from an auto parts store.. Now spray the caliper pistons down real well cleaning off all brake dust and grime.. Now pull out the cardboard and either using a large screwdriver or puddy knife between the pads spread them until the pistons you just cleaned are fully retracted into the bore. Re-install it and torque the bolts 28 - 38 ft lbs. Now do the other side exactly the same way. After both are installed pump up the brake, you are going to be amazed at the differance. Use Dot 5 fluid in that 2001 bike. You don't need the Dot 4.
Let me know how this turns out. I fix a lot of them with this method and my customers can't beleive it.
Stroker
Let me know how this turns out. I fix a lot of them with this method and my customers can't beleive it.
Stroker
Road Warrior
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,423
Likes: 775
From: Ponte Vedra Beach FL
No need to wait for winter it only took 20 minutes
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 2,095
Likes: 11
From: Central Illinois
I'm replacing my front brake line soon for a stainless line, will need to bleed the whole system anyway, so I'm waiting to see how it feels after that.
Plus, the bike has like 700 miles on it, so I doubt its very dirty in there.
Plus, the bike has like 700 miles on it, so I doubt its very dirty in there.
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Cruiser
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 174
Likes: 0
From: Kingman Arizona
Update!!!!
Well, as everybody can see I really thought the fix worked but it was only a temporary fix. Within a year it happened again. As I played with it more I noticed that after I pump them up I would release them and the pads would drastically retract into the caliper. I have been a auto tech for about 20 years now and braking is basically the same. The seals in the caliper are made to let the caliper slide through them to take up the slack and the seal actually makes the caliper retract due to it's design. You should not be able to see air between pad and rotor after you release the lever. The pistons were sticking to the square cut seal instead of sliding through them. This caused the seal to flex a lot and retract too far. I acquired two caliper kits for 20 bucks. It was a pain to get the pistons out but when I got done I was amazed. Cannot believe I rode that long with that cheap of a fix. It was never as good as it is now just by retracting them and such. If anyone has this problem I recommend spending a few bucks on caliper kits and get it over with. Amazing difference.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 2,095
Likes: 11
From: Central Illinois
Well, as everybody can see I really thought the fix worked but it was only a temporary fix. Within a year it happened again. As I played with it more I noticed that after I pump them up I would release them and the pads would drastically retract into the caliper. I have been a auto tech for about 20 years now and braking is basically the same. The seals in the caliper are made to let the caliper slide through them to take up the slack and the seal actually makes the caliper retract due to it's design. You should not be able to see air between pad and rotor after you release the lever. The pistons were sticking to the square cut seal instead of sliding through them. This caused the seal to flex a lot and retract too far. I acquired two caliper kits for 20 bucks. It was a pain to get the pistons out but when I got done I was amazed. Cannot believe I rode that long with that cheap of a fix. It was never as good as it is now just by retracting them and such. If anyone has this problem I recommend spending a few bucks on caliper kits and get it over with. Amazing difference.