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In a previous post I wrote I amlooking to put a HQ 103 now Possibly a 107 in my 07 glide. After reading articles and other posts on this forum, I am wondering if my existing H-D Race Tuner is going to be the best fit for my new upgrade, or is it going to be like putting perfume on a pig? Has anyone physically compared the two? If so what were the results. My Bassanni exhaust may be the next thing to go..ebay here I come!!! Any Help would be appreciated, I'd like to get it perfect the second time...
Call kevin @ H.Q. talk to him about the pro tuner they sell he will give you a map for your sert for your build, then add the pro tuner for full continuous adjusting cheeper than the other since you have a sert now and no dyno nessasary and is the way I am going.
Call kevin @ H.Q. talk to him about the pro tuner they sell he will give you a map for your sert for your build, then add the pro tuner for full continuous adjusting cheeper than the other since you have a sert now and no dyno nessasary and is the way I am going.
That would be my recommendation as well ~ Espically since you already have the SERT. The ProTuner adds dynamic AFR management to the very granular tunability of the SERT. One key feature that is only available with the stock Delphi ECM / SERT combo is access to ion sensing (knock detection) data. This allows one to completely tune out ping ~ including ping that is far below audible level. This is a patented technology that is only available with the Delphi ECM. It will never be available on aftermarket systems.
Why spend money on the RaceTuner? The ThunderMax w/ AutoTune will save you money after the second Dyno Tune. The SERT requires a retuning anytime you change something, It is a little redundant to pay for a SERT, pay for a Dyno Tune to set the base map, then pay for the HQ auto-tuner.
The ThunderMax just requires that you load the closest base map then ride.
Why spend money on the RaceTuner? The ThunderMax w/ AutoTune will save you money after the second Dyno Tune. The SERT requires a retuning anytime you change something, It is a little redundant to pay for a SERT, pay for a Dyno Tune to set the base map, then pay for the HQ auto-tuner.
The ThunderMax just requires that you load the closest base map then ride.
He's already got a SERT, so adding the ProTuner is acutally cheaper than switching to TMax. When purchased from Head-Quarters, and particularly when used with a HQ build, they provide the base MAP, so it's plug & play. From what I have heard from the guys doing the testing was that they tuned themselves in completely in 50 miles or less when used with a "decent MAP". When used with a MAP that was intentionally bad or "mis-tuned", it took up to 150 miles of riding to tune itself in. Compare that to the buddies I've worked with on their TMax's and the ProTuner seems to tune in quicker. Add to that, the benefit in my earlier post and that wuold be my answer to your question.
Admitedly, I have only "heard" this and not done it my self yet, but I will be using one soon and I will report back with my personal experience.
That makes me feel better, I hate to throughmoney away. I will have a list of questions when I call HQ next week, thanks again for all the input guys. I look forward to letting you all know how my build turns out in the next couple of months....
Dyno tuning is still needed with the T-Max. The SERT will work just fine with a capable tuner and tune. No need for any other gimmick add on stuff that doesn't do what is advertised. I have seen a couple T-Maxes where they have pre-ignition, only have canned maps that needtuned. Stick with what works, SERT and a Good tuner. If the tune is good it doen't need continual adjustments.
Might need to update T-body and injectors to V-Rod injectors.
Dyno tuning is still needed with the T-Max. The SERT will work just fine with a capable tuner and tune. No need for any other gimmick add on stuff that doesn't do what is advertised. I have seen a couple T-Maxes where they have pre-ignition, only have canned maps that needtuned. Stick with what works, SERT and a Good tuner. If the tune is good it doen't need continual adjustments.
Might need to update T-body and injectors to V-Rod injectors.
Gutman, I like your style, more stuff, more potential for problems. I believe in the KISS method- Keep It Simple Stupid
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