Dyna Rear Wheel Removal
Thread Starter
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Road Master
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,115
Likes: 17
Dyna Rear Wheel Removal
Jack up your bike on a bike jack and strap it down good and tight. (I like to use a couple of ratchet straps).
Next, remove the Debris Deflector.
Remove the Retaining C-clip, Axle Nut, and Washer.
Loosen but don't remove the upper right and left shock bolts.
Remove your Exhaust Support Bracket that attatches to the slip-ons if it looks like it will interfere with the rear fork from lowering.
Place a block or two under the rear tire so it doesn't just drop when performing this next step.
Remove the lower left and right shock mounting bolts and allow the rear fork to lower and the tire to rest on the blocks.
Use a bungee coed to hold the shocks up and out of the way. (Use some rags or a micro-fiber towel so you don't scratch anything).
Remove the Upper Belt Gaurd.
Mark the left side spacer and take note of the v-notch in the right side spacer for reassembly.
Remove the Axle from the wheel.
Work the rear wheel and belt pully out (while paying attention to your brake caliper), you may have to loosen the tension on the belt but it normally will loosen up enough when the rear fork drops.
Next, remove the Debris Deflector.
Remove the Retaining C-clip, Axle Nut, and Washer.
Loosen but don't remove the upper right and left shock bolts.
Remove your Exhaust Support Bracket that attatches to the slip-ons if it looks like it will interfere with the rear fork from lowering.
Place a block or two under the rear tire so it doesn't just drop when performing this next step.
Remove the lower left and right shock mounting bolts and allow the rear fork to lower and the tire to rest on the blocks.
Use a bungee coed to hold the shocks up and out of the way. (Use some rags or a micro-fiber towel so you don't scratch anything).
Remove the Upper Belt Gaurd.
Mark the left side spacer and take note of the v-notch in the right side spacer for reassembly.
Remove the Axle from the wheel.
Work the rear wheel and belt pully out (while paying attention to your brake caliper), you may have to loosen the tension on the belt but it normally will loosen up enough when the rear fork drops.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 4,722
Likes: 7
RE: Dyna Rear Wheel Removal
Great post but I thought I should add that these steps are specific to a streetbob or any dyna that does not have rear passenger peg mounts. If you have them, be sure to remove the right side peg mount before lowering the wheel and swingarm or at least check to make sure you have clearance such that it does not hit your pipes and possibly damage them.
Also, keep in mind that, depending on what kind of pipes/mufflers you have, it may be necessary to remove the lower one to get clearance to remove the axle.
And, it may not be a requirement, but be careful if you leave your rear caliper in place not to damage it or the disc when you remove the wheel. It's not a bad idea to carefully remove the caliper and move it to the side out of the way before removing the rear wheel.
If you do not change the belt tension or alignment settings, your wheel should go back on with proper alignment and tension. You should just need to check it to be sure.
Before replacing the rear axle, smear it with anti-sieze. It will be better protected and will go back in much easier than it came out.
It's also a good idea to block your front wheel as well in case the weight distribution changes too much when you remove the rear wheel and the bike may tend to want to tilt forward.
This thread is a great visual aid but it's always a good idea to have a service manual as well to guide you through each of the steps.
Also, keep in mind that, depending on what kind of pipes/mufflers you have, it may be necessary to remove the lower one to get clearance to remove the axle.
And, it may not be a requirement, but be careful if you leave your rear caliper in place not to damage it or the disc when you remove the wheel. It's not a bad idea to carefully remove the caliper and move it to the side out of the way before removing the rear wheel.
If you do not change the belt tension or alignment settings, your wheel should go back on with proper alignment and tension. You should just need to check it to be sure.
Before replacing the rear axle, smear it with anti-sieze. It will be better protected and will go back in much easier than it came out.
It's also a good idea to block your front wheel as well in case the weight distribution changes too much when you remove the rear wheel and the bike may tend to want to tilt forward.
This thread is a great visual aid but it's always a good idea to have a service manual as well to guide you through each of the steps.
Thread Starter
|
Road Master
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,115
Likes: 17
RE: Dyna Rear Wheel Removal
ORIGINAL: 2007fxdc
Great post but I thought I should add that these steps are specific to a streetbob or any dyna that does not have rear passenger peg mounts. If you have them, be sure to remove the right side peg mount before lowering the wheel and swingarm or at least check to make sure you have clearance such that it does not hit your pipes and possibly damage them.
Also, keep in mind that, depending on what kind of pipes/mufflers you have, it may be necessary to remove the lower one to get clearance to remove the axle.
And, it may not be a requirement, but be careful if you leave your rear caliper in place not to damage it or the disc when you remove the wheel. It's not a bad idea to carefully remove the caliper and move it to the side out of the way before removing the rear wheel.
If you do not change the belt tension or alignment settings, your wheel should go back on with proper alignment and tension. You should just need to check it to be sure.
Before replacing the rear axle, smear it with anti-sieze. It will be better protected and will go back in much easier than it came out.
Thanks for the addition to this post, I did miss these inportant issues.
Thanks
It's also a good idea to block your front wheel as well in case the weight distribution changes too much when you remove the rear wheel and the bike may tend to want to tilt forward.
This thread is a great visual aid but it's always a good idea to have a service manual as well to guide you through each of the steps.
Great post but I thought I should add that these steps are specific to a streetbob or any dyna that does not have rear passenger peg mounts. If you have them, be sure to remove the right side peg mount before lowering the wheel and swingarm or at least check to make sure you have clearance such that it does not hit your pipes and possibly damage them.
Also, keep in mind that, depending on what kind of pipes/mufflers you have, it may be necessary to remove the lower one to get clearance to remove the axle.
And, it may not be a requirement, but be careful if you leave your rear caliper in place not to damage it or the disc when you remove the wheel. It's not a bad idea to carefully remove the caliper and move it to the side out of the way before removing the rear wheel.
If you do not change the belt tension or alignment settings, your wheel should go back on with proper alignment and tension. You should just need to check it to be sure.
Before replacing the rear axle, smear it with anti-sieze. It will be better protected and will go back in much easier than it came out.
Thanks for the addition to this post, I did miss these inportant issues.
Thanks
It's also a good idea to block your front wheel as well in case the weight distribution changes too much when you remove the rear wheel and the bike may tend to want to tilt forward.
This thread is a great visual aid but it's always a good idea to have a service manual as well to guide you through each of the steps.
Road Master
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 890
Likes: 0
From:
Thanks for the info! I used this thread to help me get a new Dunlop 180 on my '08 FXDL.
Got the Tire for $200 which was pretty good considering it came from my stealer.
I didn't bother with removal of either belt guard and removal/installation was a SNAP!
Great thread!
Got the Tire for $200 which was pretty good considering it came from my stealer.
I didn't bother with removal of either belt guard and removal/installation was a SNAP!
Great thread!
Cruiser
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 125
Likes: 0
From: IL
Great write up especially with the pictures. One question though. Do you know if the V notch has to be positioned and if so why? My spacer fell off before I saw the positioning. My right spacer has the notch facing the brake caliper arm like you show in the picture, but it is oriented different than yours. I am still curious about that notch, especially since I couldn't see anything mentioned in my manual. Thanks again.
Advanced
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 50
Likes: 0
From: SoCal
Holy thread resurrection!
I just changed the back tire (flat) on my Dyna and these instructions were perfect. Coupled with the torque numbers in the manual I'm on the road again...
Thanks a mil (or at least $100) Matrix!
I just changed the back tire (flat) on my Dyna and these instructions were perfect. Coupled with the torque numbers in the manual I'm on the road again...
Thanks a mil (or at least $100) Matrix!
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Elite HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 3,914
Likes: 0
From: Chicago, Illinois
The torque numbers provided by Harley for the rear axle nut on the '06 and '07 Dynas are conflicting - the '06 manual has the old solid axle torque spec of ~65 ft. lbs., even though it has the same hollow 1" axle as the '07 Dyna. And the manual for the '07 Dyna provides a torque spec of 92 to 98 ft. lbs. '08 and up Dyna have the hollow 25mm axles, and the manual is consistent for these years with a spec 95 to 105 ft. lbs.
It would seem that when Harley changed from the solid rear axle to the hollow axle in '06 that maybe they didn't revise the rear axle torque spec accordingly? Since the '07 spec is 92 to 98 ft. lbs., I either over tightened the crap out of the axle nut on my '07 superglide after just replacing the rear tire, or there are a lot of '06 Dynas with under-torqued rear axles. What's up with that. Is 92 to 98 ft. lbs. right for my '07 Dyna axle? Thanks in advance if you can help.
It would seem that when Harley changed from the solid rear axle to the hollow axle in '06 that maybe they didn't revise the rear axle torque spec accordingly? Since the '07 spec is 92 to 98 ft. lbs., I either over tightened the crap out of the axle nut on my '07 superglide after just replacing the rear tire, or there are a lot of '06 Dynas with under-torqued rear axles. What's up with that. Is 92 to 98 ft. lbs. right for my '07 Dyna axle? Thanks in advance if you can help.
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