Replacing Your Hand Grips *
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Replacing Your Hand Grips *
Grip Change Procedure, Also a helpfull tool... HERE
And additional instructions ...HERE
If you have some mechanical aptitude, and can use hand tools,we'll try this together. If carbed I am assuming you have the original CV carb or a Mikuni but if it is an S&S with a butterfly it will be the same process.
This is only a guideline and a service manual will prove very handy if you should run into problems not covered here
Tools you will need:
Very thin long blade screwdriver
Allen key set or torx kit depending on whose controls you have on your bars, make sure if it is a torx that it is a #27 not #25 which will strip it, the #27 usually does not come in a kit.
A small set of open end wrenches—American sizes
Needle nose pliers and LONG tweezers in case you drop a ferrel in the control housing
A tube of grip adhesive
Cable lube ( while you are in there )
Let’s start with the left hand grip first unless you have grips with a pattern on them such as the Kuryakin ISO grips. If your grips have a pattern you will need to do the throttle grip first so you can line up the pattern with the left grip:
1-Assume that you may destroy the left grip to get it off., unless you wish to save it, then you would spray gumout carb cleaner under the edge and work it off with the long screwdriver. The gum out disolves the glue used to fasten it. Some grips are more heavily glued to the bar than others. First give it a good twist by hand to see if it will break its grip with the glue. If not, and you have access to an air compressor, you can try to blow air between the grip and the bar to try to break it loose, this usually works well.
In order to remove it easily you will need to cut the absolute end of the grip ‘cap’ off in order to gain access to remove the rest of the grip. To cut off the end, squeeze along the grip from the control covers back toward the end. You should be able to feel where the end of the handlebar is in relation to the end of the grip.
2-When you have determined where the end is, use the small hacksaw to cut off the ‘cap’ end of the grip. Don’t worry if you get too close to the bar and nick it—it won’t make any difference and will not be seen. The idea is to gain access to the adhesive between the grip and the bar. You can also use the gumout proceedure here.
3- Remove the screws from the left control covers and the 2 halves of the switch ‘pod’ will separate. At this point examine the inside of the end of the shell of each half and you will see if there is a recess in the switch pod halves that will capture the end of the new grip and physically capture and cover a small portion of the end of the grip, mainly for cosmetic purposes. If there is no capture area (recess) in the ends of the switch pod halves just butt the grip against the switch pod. This is fyi for re-installation later.
4- Going through the end of the grip where you cut off the end of the grip push the or the long thin screwdriver between the grip and the handlebar, and go all the way around the grip. The idea is to release the glue holding the grip in place to allow you to twist the grip and pull it off the bar, this is where the spray of gumout helps.
5- Got the old grip in your hand now? Good—use the course emery cloth (or whatever you have on hand) to try to remove as much of the old glue as possible from the bar in the location where the new grip will go. Laquer thinners also does a good job. You do not have to remove every bit of the old glue, but clean the bar as best you can in order for the new glue to stick the new grip to the bar.
6- Using grip adhesive place enough inside the new grip to ensure that when you twist the new grip into position, the adhesive will reasonably cover the bar. You can spread a little glue
And additional instructions ...HERE
If you have some mechanical aptitude, and can use hand tools,we'll try this together. If carbed I am assuming you have the original CV carb or a Mikuni but if it is an S&S with a butterfly it will be the same process.
This is only a guideline and a service manual will prove very handy if you should run into problems not covered here
Tools you will need:
Very thin long blade screwdriver
Allen key set or torx kit depending on whose controls you have on your bars, make sure if it is a torx that it is a #27 not #25 which will strip it, the #27 usually does not come in a kit.
A small set of open end wrenches—American sizes
Needle nose pliers and LONG tweezers in case you drop a ferrel in the control housing
A tube of grip adhesive
Cable lube ( while you are in there )
Let’s start with the left hand grip first unless you have grips with a pattern on them such as the Kuryakin ISO grips. If your grips have a pattern you will need to do the throttle grip first so you can line up the pattern with the left grip:
1-Assume that you may destroy the left grip to get it off., unless you wish to save it, then you would spray gumout carb cleaner under the edge and work it off with the long screwdriver. The gum out disolves the glue used to fasten it. Some grips are more heavily glued to the bar than others. First give it a good twist by hand to see if it will break its grip with the glue. If not, and you have access to an air compressor, you can try to blow air between the grip and the bar to try to break it loose, this usually works well.
In order to remove it easily you will need to cut the absolute end of the grip ‘cap’ off in order to gain access to remove the rest of the grip. To cut off the end, squeeze along the grip from the control covers back toward the end. You should be able to feel where the end of the handlebar is in relation to the end of the grip.
2-When you have determined where the end is, use the small hacksaw to cut off the ‘cap’ end of the grip. Don’t worry if you get too close to the bar and nick it—it won’t make any difference and will not be seen. The idea is to gain access to the adhesive between the grip and the bar. You can also use the gumout proceedure here.
3- Remove the screws from the left control covers and the 2 halves of the switch ‘pod’ will separate. At this point examine the inside of the end of the shell of each half and you will see if there is a recess in the switch pod halves that will capture the end of the new grip and physically capture and cover a small portion of the end of the grip, mainly for cosmetic purposes. If there is no capture area (recess) in the ends of the switch pod halves just butt the grip against the switch pod. This is fyi for re-installation later.
4- Going through the end of the grip where you cut off the end of the grip push the or the long thin screwdriver between the grip and the handlebar, and go all the way around the grip. The idea is to release the glue holding the grip in place to allow you to twist the grip and pull it off the bar, this is where the spray of gumout helps.
5- Got the old grip in your hand now? Good—use the course emery cloth (or whatever you have on hand) to try to remove as much of the old glue as possible from the bar in the location where the new grip will go. Laquer thinners also does a good job. You do not have to remove every bit of the old glue, but clean the bar as best you can in order for the new glue to stick the new grip to the bar.
6- Using grip adhesive place enough inside the new grip to ensure that when you twist the new grip into position, the adhesive will reasonably cover the bar. You can spread a little glue
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