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RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux

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RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 4/8/2008 9:06:45 PM   
mudpuddle


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quote:

ORIGINAL: RudeDog

quote:

ORIGINAL: mudpuddle

I just got back from Tandy's, picked up some leather,
and some lacing so I can start getting my seat finished.

mud


Did you get the link to the thread requesting help with your seat?
Are you going to DIY?
That may be cheaper than $50.00! NEW POST MUD!




Did not get the link Dog.

Doin it myself, for now.

When I find a seat maker /slash/ leather carver,
I will commission it out.

mud


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Post #: 801
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 4/9/2008 5:47:06 PM   
jnslim007


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So I was bored at home so I went outside to stare at my bike.  I then decided that I figured I could make a Laydown license plate holder myself by bending the stock bracket.  I then took the 2 piece bracket off and seperated them.  I took the piece that the plate screws into directly and wrapped it in a dish towel.  I took a chug of beer and proceeded to beat it until desired layback was achieved.  Total time 10 min, I had to go in and get another beer.  Total cost-FREE.  Let me know what ya think.


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Post #: 802
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 4/9/2008 8:46:18 PM   
XKROME


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quote:

ORIGINAL: jnslim007

So I was bored at home so I went outside to stare at my bike.  I then decided that I figured I could make a Laydown license plate holder myself by bending the stock bracket.  I then took the 2 piece bracket off and seperated them.  I took the piece that the plate screws into directly and wrapped it in a dish towel.  I took a chug of beer and proceeded to beat it until desired layback was achieved.  Total time 10 min, I had to go in and get another beer.  Total cost-FREE.  Let me know what ya think.


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you forgot to add in the price of 2 beers
i like the way that looks and i was thinking of doing that myself(i think i saw it posted by someone els) but when i put the luggage rack on for long over night trips my tent fits good in space below rack and behind plate. maybe i can get a second plate holder from the Harley Salvage.

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Post #: 803
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 4/9/2008 9:15:01 PM   
mudpuddle


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quote:

ORIGINAL: XKROME

quote:

ORIGINAL: jnslim007

So I was bored at home so I went outside to stare at my bike.  I then decided that I figured I could make a Laydown license plate holder myself by bending the stock bracket.  I then took the 2 piece bracket off and seperated them.  I took the piece that the plate screws into directly and wrapped it in a dish towel.  I took a chug of beer and proceeded to beat it until desired layback was achieved.  Total time 10 min, I had to go in and get another beer.  Total cost-FREE.  Let me know what ya think.


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you forgot to add in the price of 2 beers
i like the way that looks and i was thinking of doing that myself


(i think i saw it posted by someone els)


but when i put the luggage rack on for long over night trips my tent fits good in space 
below rack and behind plate.
maybe i can get a second plate holder from the Harley Salvage.





Yeah,     stell55 did this back on page 11,
but, he didn't mention the beer.

Now, this sounds more interesting.

http://www.hdforums.com/fb.asp?m=2733548

mud

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Post #: 804
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 4/10/2008 11:35:01 AM   
mt_dave


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Thanks to everyone on here! 

I just spent about 30 min. looking at this and have a list of about 20 mods to work on next winter!

You guys are great!

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Post #: 805
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 4/10/2008 4:19:15 PM   
RudeDog


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quote:

ORIGINAL: mudpuddle

Did not get the link Dog.

Doin it myself, for now.

When I find a seat maker /slash/ leather carver,
I will commission it out.

mud



Here's the link for the seat:
http://www.clubchopper.com/forums/showthread.php?p=733820#post733820

Plus I thought I sent you a bunch of copies of the PM replies I recieved from that thread? I'll send those again. . . . . .

O.K., email sent.


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Post #: 806
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 4/10/2008 7:23:20 PM   
mudpuddle


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quote:

ORIGINAL: mt_dave

Thanks to everyone on here! 

I just spent about 30 min. looking at this and have a list of about 20 mods to work on next winter!

You guys are great!


Keep us updated dave.

mud

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Post #: 807
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 4/10/2008 7:23:33 PM   
mudpuddle


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quote:

ORIGINAL: RudeDog

Here's the link for the seat:
http://www.clubchopper.com/forums/showthread.php?p=733820#post733820

Plus I thought I sent you a bunch of copies of the PM replies I recieved from that thread? I'll send those again. . . . . .

O.K., email sent.




Thanks Dog. Gonna keep this in mind.

mud

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Post #: 808
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 4/19/2008 2:24:02 PM   
Rancid17



Posts: 27
Joined: 2/26/2006
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Side Mount License Plate Bracket (Free)

I took off the stock bracket and sat down with my dogs and a six pack while watch an old episode of biker build off (with Indian Larry) for some inspriation.  After about a half hour of bending around and trying to line the holes up, it eventually worked.  Sorry I'm not more precise with how I did it but it's like one of those triangle shapped wooden puzzles with the golf tees that you have to remove.  The only time you ever actually succeed you can't ever remember how you did it for the next time. 

Horn Relocate (45 hanging bracket)

I know a few people have done this but I thought I would throw in my two cents as well, I bought a 3" hanging bracket from an autoparts store put it in a vise and bent the end down 90degrees.  Bolted it under the top bolt for the rear exhaust support bracket and it lays down under the battery box.

Thanks to everyone that's been posting here...keep'r between the lines.



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Post #: 809
License Plate Lowdown - 4/22/2008 9:36:52 PM   
BluBob

 

Posts: 400
Joined: 4/10/2008
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Super easy.  License plate lawdown method that uses no mounting bracket.  License plate is bolted directly to fender.  (Hear me out on this one)  Remove bracket and pull plate.  Use rear tire as form to bend plate to same radius as rear fender.  Approximate is OK, you can tweak it later.  Use mounting bracket as a template to drill three holes in plate (top tip triangle).  Buy door ding strips (black plastic channel strips that fit on edge of car doors) and work them around the edge of plate.  Heat and glue as needed.  Use soft (pile) side of velcro or felt pads to lay a soft base on back of plate.  Stove bolts (small machine bolts) through the plate, with backplate of thin metal or heavy duty plastic stock and lock washers, then nuts.  Check clearance for wires and tire (should be same as bolts/nuts for bracket, so no problem)  I get a lot of compliments on this plate.  I only did it because I couldn't find a laydown that was low enough to give a good profile.  It still catches some light from the illum window in the tailight (Kurk smoke with standard bulb).  I can post more pics when I add a better backplate.  2 hrs, taking my time, hand tools only.  Last picture is with the plate mounted, it is hard to see from the side.



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< Message edited by BluBob -- 4/22/2008 9:43:45 PM >

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Post #: 810
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 4/22/2008 10:11:04 PM   
WS6 Formula


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quote:

ORIGINAL: RudeDog

quote:

ORIGINAL: mudpuddle

Did not get the link Dog.

Doin it myself, for now.

When I find a seat maker /slash/ leather carver,
I will commission it out.

mud



Here's the link for the seat:
http://www.clubchopper.com/forums/showthread.php?p=733820#post733820

Plus I thought I sent you a bunch of copies of the PM replies I recieved from that thread? I'll send those again. . . . . .

O.K., email sent.



That photo I took at Laidlaw's Harley Davidson in Baldwin Park, California back on January 12 2008.  Owner said he did it himself and I haven't seen the bike since.  You might try posting in the pacific section of this forum and see if anyone knows the owner.





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Post #: 811
Horn Re-locate - 4/23/2008 6:24:28 PM   
BluBob

 

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I went with much the same setup as others, but used the screw holding the battery cover down as a mounting point for a flattened shelving bracket.  Ran the wiring through under the seat.  I had to cut and splice to get the wires out of the shield where they run halfway up the tank.  This gave me enough length to get it under the battery cover.  It is much louder, maybe because of no cover?


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Attachment (1)

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Post #: 812
RE: Horn Re-locate - 4/24/2008 12:29:50 PM   
RazorFXDB

 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: BluBob

I went with much the same setup as others, but used the screw holding the battery cover down as a mounting point for a flattened shelving bracket.  Ran the wiring through under the seat.  I had to cut and splice to get the wires out of the shield where they run halfway up the tank.  This gave me enough length to get it under the battery cover.  It is much louder, maybe because of no cover?


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Is the sound quality good? 

I've relocated mine, even bought a smaller horn, but it sounds like shit.  I don't reallly care what it sounds like, because I never use it, but I'm worried I'll get hooked for it on an inspection sooner or later.  Anyone know what i should be doing to get the horn to sound right?


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Post #: 813
RE: Horn Re-locate - 4/24/2008 12:50:55 PM   
Dawg Rider


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Some spray paint ideas: http://www.hdforums.com/m_3260610/tm.htm

I'll describe the super quick, easy, and cheap Lowe's brand adjustable tank lift as soon as I get a chance.

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Post #: 814
RE: Horn Re-locate - 4/24/2008 4:05:31 PM   
WS6 Formula


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quote:

ORIGINAL: RazorFXDB
Is the sound quality good? 

I've relocated mine, even bought a smaller horn, but it sounds like shit.  I don't reallly care what it sounds like, because I never use it, but I'm worried I'll get hooked for it on an inspection sooner or later.  Anyone know what i should be doing to get the horn to sound right?


Rubber mount it.

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Post #: 815
RE: Horn Re-locate - 4/24/2008 4:17:34 PM   
RazorFXDB

 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: WS6 Formula

quote:

ORIGINAL: RazorFXDB
Is the sound quality good? 

I've relocated mine, even bought a smaller horn, but it sounds like shit.  I don't reallly care what it sounds like, because I never use it, but I'm worried I'll get hooked for it on an inspection sooner or later.  Anyone know what i should be doing to get the horn to sound right?


Rubber mount it.
.

ahhhhhh ... thank you.

_____________________________

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Post #: 816
RE: Horn Re-locate - 4/24/2008 7:28:13 PM   
BluBob

 

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My sound quality is good.  It's louder than the stock placement.  I think the slight flex of the bracket gives enough to let it function properly.  Also, after looking at the old mounting point I decided to clean it up.  I removed the rubber mount by gripping it with a pair of vice grips and some protection.  It turns out on the same bolt you see from the front.  I then routed my front spark cable over the hole, using the hole as a mounting point for the stock retainer zip tie.  It covers the hole and looks natural.  Clearance is good, basically the same.

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Post #: 817
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 4/25/2008 7:17:05 PM   
deanz

 


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Not sure if this covered...
After lowering the rear of my FatBob, using the jiffy stand was a bit scary, the bike had very little weight on the stand and I often feared the wind could blow it over.
Heating and bending can remove the temper and make the stand weak, so the next best thing, by removing an 1/8" from the top of resting tab I was able to get the bike to "lean"
over about an inch and now feels as if there could be weight on the stand.
I blocked the frame so I could move the stand back and forth.
Verified the amount of material to remove, and made sure enough was left to hit the "stop" when extending the stand.
Using a cut off disk remove a uniform amount across the top of the "resting Tab", Return bike to floor and test.


Before Removal




After Removal








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Post #: 818
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 4/25/2008 7:39:39 PM   
mudpuddle


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Good deal Rancid.
Use what ya got.

mud

quote:

ORIGINAL: Rancid17

Side Mount License Plate Bracket (Free)

I took off the stock bracket and sat down with my dogs and a six pack while watch an old episode of biker build off (with Indian Larry) for some inspriation.  After about a half hour of bending around and trying to line the holes up, it eventually worked.  Sorry I'm not more precise with how I did it but it's like one of those triangle shapped wooden puzzles with the golf tees that you have to remove.  The only time you ever actually succeed you can't ever remember how you did it for the next time. 

Horn Relocate (45 hanging bracket)

I know a few people have done this but I thought I would throw in my two cents as well, I bought a 3" hanging bracket from an autoparts store put it in a vise and bent the end down 90degrees.  Bolted it under the top bolt for the rear exhaust support bracket and it lays down under the battery box.

Thanks to everyone that's been posting here...keep'r between the lines.




(in reply to Rancid17)
Post #: 819
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 4/25/2008 7:40:28 PM   
mudpuddle


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quote:

ORIGINAL: WS6 Formula

That photo I took at Laidlaw's Harley Davidson in Baldwin Park, California back on January 12 2008. 
Owner said he did it himself and I haven't seen the bike since. 
You might try posting in the pacific section of this forum and see if anyone knows the owner.







Thanks for the updated pix W.
Much appreciated.

Good idea to post in the Pacific Room.

That is some of the best leather tooling etc that I have seen.

mud

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Post #: 820
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 4/25/2008 7:40:59 PM   
mudpuddle


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quote:

ORIGINAL: BluBob

I went with much the same setup as others, but used the screw holding the battery cover down as a mounting point for a flattened shelving bracket.  Ran the wiring through under the seat.  I had to cut and splice to get the wires out of the shield where they run halfway up the tank.  This gave me enough length to get it under the battery cover.  It is much louder, maybe because of no cover?





Quick and easy Bob.
Good job.

mud

(in reply to BluBob)
Post #: 821
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 4/25/2008 7:41:49 PM   
mudpuddle


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quote:

ORIGINAL: Dawg Rider

Some spray paint ideas: http://www.hdforums.com/m_3260610/tm.htm

I'll describe the super quick, easy, and cheap Lowe's brand adjustable tank lift as soon as I get a chance.


Thanx Dawg.
Your machine is lookin really good.

mud

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Post #: 822
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 4/25/2008 7:42:27 PM   
mudpuddle


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Way to go dean.

That was easy once you put your engineers eyeball on it.

This will help out a lot of the lowered bikes.
Bookmark it.

mud


quote:

ORIGINAL: deanz

Not sure if this covered...
After lowering the rear of my FatBob, using the jiffy stand was a bit scary, the bike had very little weight on the stand and I often feared the wind could blow it over.
Heating and bending can remove the temper and make the stand weak, so the next best thing, by removing an 1/8" from the top of resting tab I was able to get the bike to "lean"
over about an inch and now feels as if there could be weight on the stand.
I blocked the frame so I could move the stand back and forth.
Verified the amount of material to remove, and made sure enough was left to hit the "stop" when extending the stand.
Using a cut off disk remove a uniform amount across the top of the "resting Tab", Return bike to floor and test.




_____________________________





(in reply to deanz)
Post #: 823
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 4/26/2008 6:42:01 AM   
Dawg Rider


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Another tank lift (about 1.5" is what I was after)...really no different than some others that have been done, except that it takes even less work because I used two of these (the flat bracket part):
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb259/jfeason/Dogs048.jpg

The holes are already there, so no drilling required, plus they are slotted a bit so you actually have some adjustability if you want it (I didn't as I put them all the way down). I used short black hex type socket head cap screws with stainless nylon lock nuts. In this pic you can see the raw brackets when I put them on for a test run to see how it would look/work.
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb259/jfeason/Dogs032.jpg

I took them off and ran down the street to an indy guy's shop that I know and used his bench grinder to round and smooth the edges (No shop equipment at my daughter's house in town where I keep the bike). Then all it needed was some sanding and painting (I was already painting some other stuff). When I put them back on, I decided to go inside the tank tabs this time. The finished product is pretty much invisible, and feels very solid. Total cost was less than $5 (since I had the paint already), it took very little time, and the grinder was the only thing I needed that wasn't in my truck tool box.
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb259/jfeason/Dogs044.jpg
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb259/jfeason/Dogs046-1.jpg
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb259/jfeason/Dogs045-1.jpg 

Finished product from a distance:



< Message edited by Dawg Rider -- 4/26/2008 8:50:32 AM >


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Post #: 824
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 4/26/2008 6:45:10 AM   
CSA


Posts: 551
Joined: 3/15/2008
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quote:

ORIGINAL: Beefy

I saw this on a bike yesterday and did it this morning. After putting the HD wing kit on I really didn't like how it made the front end look, and I like the closer fit of Kuriyakan but also didn't want a clamp on my tube. So by chance, unless someone already posted this and I missed it, is my no or little dough blinker mod.

First, the wing.


The ball receptacle from the handle bar turn signal. Everyone has at least one, and I got a used one for free from a local shop. They can be painted black and bought chrome. You just have to drill it out a little.


This is mounted straight, but there is enough room to angle it up or down some. I angled mine up.


This show's the difference.


Both mounted.


I think it looks good with the headlamp.


And finished. About an hour or so without breaks.



Thanks Beefy! Worked perfect!


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Post #: 825
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 4/26/2008 9:36:38 AM   
mudpuddle


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Nice job Dawg.

mud



quote:

ORIGINAL: Dawg Rider

Another tank lift (about 1.5" is what I was after)...really no different than some others that have been done, except that it takes even less work because I used two of these (the flat bracket part):
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb259/jfeason/Dogs048.jpg

The holes are already there, so no drilling required, plus they are slotted a bit so you actually have some adjustability if you want it (I didn't as I put them all the way down). I used short black hex type socket head cap screws with stainless nylon lock nuts. In this pic you can see the raw brackets when I put them on for a test run to see how it would look/work.
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb259/jfeason/Dogs032.jpg

I took them off and ran down the street to an indy guy's shop that I know and used his bench grinder to round and smooth the edges (No shop equipment at my daughter's house in town where I keep the bike). Then all it needed was some sanding and painting (I was already painting some other stuff). When I put them back on, I decided to go inside the tank tabs this time. The finished product is pretty much invisible, and feels very solid. Total cost was less than $5 (since I had the paint already), it took very little time, and the grinder was the only thing I needed that wasn't in my truck tool box.
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb259/jfeason/Dogs044.jpg
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb259/jfeason/Dogs046-1.jpg
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb259/jfeason/Dogs045-1.jpg 

Finished product from a distance:



(in reply to Dawg Rider)
Post #: 826
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 4/26/2008 9:37:14 AM   
mudpuddle


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quote:

ORIGINAL: CSA

Thanks Beefy! Worked perfect!




Way to go Gary.

Real good to see folks taking advantage of some of the ideas here.
Beefy and XKROME both offered up this technique.

It's a good one.

mud

(in reply to CSA)
Post #: 827
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 4/28/2008 7:39:08 AM   
Dawg Rider


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I know most don't have throwover