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Derby Cover and LRS Windshield ISSUES!

Old Mar 22, 2015 | 07:26 AM
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Default Derby Cover and LRS Windshield ISSUES!

Bought a cool new Derby Cover for my SGS and of course my Craftsman set of torx head sockets twisted which in turn partially stripped the head of one of the derby cover screws. DAMN! DO I EVER HATE MEDIUM SIZE TORX HEAD SCREWS! Now I guess I'll have to go have the dealer put it on for me.


Anybody know how to solve this? I am going to have to get new screws for the derby cover to satisfy my OCD but damn it. If the friggin socket didn't twist it would have been fine...I think? I will also be using a Tork Wrench (Inch) to re-install derby cover.


Also I took my 7" LRS Windshield off and noticed a small crack about 1/4" running up from one of the screw holes. Any ideas on what I could do with that? Any kind of glue that might stop it from further cracking?


AND...NO I didn't over-tighten any of this stuff. Derby Cover is stock and I was very careful with the LRS Install for that very reason.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2015 | 07:44 AM
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Originally Posted by COZWV
Bought a cool new Derby Cover for my SGS and of course my Craftsman set of torx head sockets twisted which in turn partially stripped the head of one of the derby cover screws. DAMN! DO I EVER HATE MEDIUM SIZE TORX HEAD SCREWS! Now I guess I'll have to go have the dealer put it on for me.


Anybody know how to solve this? I am going to have to get new screws for the derby cover to satisfy my OCD but damn it. If the friggin socket didn't twist it would have been fine...I think? I will also be using a Tork Wrench (Inch) to re-install derby cover.


Also I took my 7" LRS Windshield off and noticed a small crack about 1/4" running up from one of the screw holes. Any ideas on what I could do with that? Any kind of glue that might stop it from further cracking?


AND...NO I didn't over-tighten any of this stuff. Derby Cover is stock and I was very careful with the LRS Install for that very reason.
Replace then lousy Torx with grade 8 steel 1/4-20x5/8" chrome plated bolts (pn 9425) and chrome plated1/4 washers p/n 9479 from BoltDepot.com.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2015 | 08:26 AM
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If you cracked your shield, you overtightened it. I haven't done it on a LRS, but when plastic cracks, drill a small hole at the end of the crack, that will stop it.

The torx screws on the derby are T-27. A lot of folks mistakenly use a T-25 bit, and have issues.

Also the TORQUE value is very low. I have 3 high dollar TORQUE wrenches, and none of them will go that low, and I'm not ready to spend the $350 for the one TORQUE wrench that I have found on the Snap On truck so that I can get down to 15 in-lbs.

Tighten them in the same pattern you would a wheel, don't run any one in tight, just go around and around a couple times. You will feel when they bottom out, then give them a little snug.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2015 | 08:42 AM
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Originally Posted by SafetyMan
If you cracked your shield, you overtightened it. I haven't done it on a LRS, but when plastic cracks, drill a small hole at the end of the crack, that will stop it.

The torx screws on the derby are T-27. A lot of folks mistakenly use a T-25 bit, and have issues.

Also the TORQUE value is very low. I have 3 high dollar TORQUE wrenches, and none of them will go that low, and I'm not ready to spend the $350 for the one TORQUE wrench that I have found on the Snap On truck so that I can get down to 15 in-lbs.

Tighten them in the same pattern you would a wheel, don't run any one in tight, just go around and around a couple times. You will feel when they bottom out, then give them a little snug.
Brother, I think the derby torx are tightened to 7-8 ft-lbs. (84-108 in-lbs).
smib

Bob
 
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Old Mar 22, 2015 | 09:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Dynamite17
Brother, I think the derby torx are tightened to 7-8 ft-lbs. (84-108 in-lbs).
smib

Bob
You're right...

The screws on the master cylinder are 15 in-lbs... unless I'm wrong there too... I'm at work, the manual is at home.

I still do it the way I described above. There is no pressure behind that, and it only has to be tight enough to A. keep the cover from falling off and B. Keep the seal tight enough so oil doesn't splash out.

smib
 
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Old Mar 22, 2015 | 09:31 AM
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I'll second the 7ft lbs for derby cover as I just changed fluids last weekend. I set my wrench to 5ft lbs and then 7ft lbs to tighten they in a two stage effort so to speak. Even that seems like a lot on such small screws...lol
 
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Old Mar 22, 2015 | 09:43 AM
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I had two LRS crack on me. The replaced them. Never overtighten them
 
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Old Mar 22, 2015 | 10:00 AM
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Which size Torx socket did you use for the derby cover? If T25, then that will strip them. The correct size is T27. But if you didn't stay straight that will strip them too.

Did you use Loctite on the LRS bolts? If so that will crack the shield. LRS has stated so either here or their website.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2015 | 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Dynamite17
Replace then lousy Torx with grade 8 steel 1/4-20x5/8" chrome plated bolts (pn 9425) and chrome plated1/4 washers p/n 9479 from BoltDepot.com.
Just now ordered. I've used BoltDepot quite a few times in the past.

They have chrome bolts for about every hole!
 
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Old Mar 22, 2015 | 10:48 AM
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As for the LRS, drill a tiny (really tiny) hole at the end of the crack. Glue will not work, and will cloud up your windscreen.
 
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