Power Vision 2 question
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Power Vision 2 question
I recently installed a Stage 1 power package from Fuelmoto using the PV2 with auto tune basic on my 2014 SGS. I've done 2 Thundermax with auto tune systems in the past with excellent success but became intrigued with the unique features of the PV2 and decided to give it a try.
All went well with he Stage 1 install and flashing the ECM with the map provided by Fuelmoto and the bike ran great. I then decided to run auto tune yesterday and have had an issue that makes no sense to me. I went through all the steps to enable auto tune correctly and used the supplied Fuelmoto map as my base. Took the bike out and stopped 2 miles down the road to grab something to drink at the store. When I restarted the bike the throttle response was slow and sluggish with stumbling and popping where normally it had been very quick and crisp with no stumbling or popping what so ever.
In the course of abandoning my ride as a result of the issue and heading home to try and figure out what was wrong, the throttle response came back after about a mile. I then continued on a 30 mile ride and the bike ran great. Stopped for lunch and when I restarted the bike an hour later, same thing. Throttle response was slow with stumbling and popping. A mile or so down the road it came back to normal and ran great.
It's my understanding that the PV2 auto tune system does not make real time changes like my previous Thundermax systems, but instead determines VE updates that you later accept and write to the ECM if desired. So what I described above makes no sense to me and any ideas from the PV experts are greatly appreciated.
All went well with he Stage 1 install and flashing the ECM with the map provided by Fuelmoto and the bike ran great. I then decided to run auto tune yesterday and have had an issue that makes no sense to me. I went through all the steps to enable auto tune correctly and used the supplied Fuelmoto map as my base. Took the bike out and stopped 2 miles down the road to grab something to drink at the store. When I restarted the bike the throttle response was slow and sluggish with stumbling and popping where normally it had been very quick and crisp with no stumbling or popping what so ever.
In the course of abandoning my ride as a result of the issue and heading home to try and figure out what was wrong, the throttle response came back after about a mile. I then continued on a 30 mile ride and the bike ran great. Stopped for lunch and when I restarted the bike an hour later, same thing. Throttle response was slow with stumbling and popping. A mile or so down the road it came back to normal and ran great.
It's my understanding that the PV2 auto tune system does not make real time changes like my previous Thundermax systems, but instead determines VE updates that you later accept and write to the ECM if desired. So what I described above makes no sense to me and any ideas from the PV experts are greatly appreciated.
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You may want to stop, stopping while in the autotune session.
If you're going to autotune, take the bike out for about 20 minutes to warm it up, pull over to the side of the road, set-up the autotune mode, run the bike for about 20 minutes, and do this 3 times. Each time you run the autotune, run it off it off the last autotune session - then after your third session, flash that to your bike and see how it runs.
If you're going to autotune, take the bike out for about 20 minutes to warm it up, pull over to the side of the road, set-up the autotune mode, run the bike for about 20 minutes, and do this 3 times. Each time you run the autotune, run it off it off the last autotune session - then after your third session, flash that to your bike and see how it runs.
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From: null
You may want to stop, stopping while in the autotune session.
If you're going to autotune, take the bike out for about 20 minutes to warm it up, pull over to the side of the road, set-up the autotune mode, run the bike for about 20 minutes, and do this 3 times. Each time you run the autotune, run it off it off the last autotune session - then after your third session, flash that to your bike and see how it runs.
If you're going to autotune, take the bike out for about 20 minutes to warm it up, pull over to the side of the road, set-up the autotune mode, run the bike for about 20 minutes, and do this 3 times. Each time you run the autotune, run it off it off the last autotune session - then after your third session, flash that to your bike and see how it runs.
Thank you! I will definitely give that a try and will run 3 - 20 minute sessions as you described without stopping and restarting. I appreciate the advice!
Cruiser
Joined: Apr 2013
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From: Pennsylvania
Start it up, let it idle, monitor the gauges on the pv until it's up to temp, then enable auto tune, start and ride for a hour or two and then save your auto tune run to a empty slot. O and yes it will run like crap at first, I believe it's due to the way auto tune mode cuts fuel and timing and resets all learned setting to start learning new.
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Last edited by JMC22; Mar 29, 2015 at 09:37 PM.
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Road Captain
Joined: Sep 2014
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From: New Braunfels, TX
Engines actually like a different fuel strategy for a little while after being started, even when they're already warm.
while autotune is active these after start parameters are disabled. Acceleration enrichment is also disabled so quick throttle grabs may cause stumbles and pops. The fuel delivered is not ideal and timing is also reduced while autotune is enabled.
All that is to say, expect the engine to be a bit unhappy while autotuning. After you export the tune then apply it, autotune will be disabled and the bike will run much better.
while autotune is active these after start parameters are disabled. Acceleration enrichment is also disabled so quick throttle grabs may cause stumbles and pops. The fuel delivered is not ideal and timing is also reduced while autotune is enabled.
All that is to say, expect the engine to be a bit unhappy while autotuning. After you export the tune then apply it, autotune will be disabled and the bike will run much better.
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Thanks to all for the excellent advice.
What I've learned is that when in auto tune, the fuel trims are limited to closed loop to receive inputs from the O2 sensors. As such, when the motor is cold it's not receiving the warm up fuel trims that it otherwise receives when auto tune is disabled.
As others have said, the bike should to be at normal operating temperature before starting an auto tune session. Once you have completed the tuning ride , write the tune file to a memory slot accepting the modified trims and disable auto tune.
When you are ready to do another tuning session, warm the bike up then enable auto tune and pick the tuning file that you want to continue to modify and repeat the process. You can flash ECM at any point that you want to try the modified tune.
Thanks again for the help and advice!
What I've learned is that when in auto tune, the fuel trims are limited to closed loop to receive inputs from the O2 sensors. As such, when the motor is cold it's not receiving the warm up fuel trims that it otherwise receives when auto tune is disabled.
As others have said, the bike should to be at normal operating temperature before starting an auto tune session. Once you have completed the tuning ride , write the tune file to a memory slot accepting the modified trims and disable auto tune.
When you are ready to do another tuning session, warm the bike up then enable auto tune and pick the tuning file that you want to continue to modify and repeat the process. You can flash ECM at any point that you want to try the modified tune.
Thanks again for the help and advice!
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