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Hello...is anyone familiar with this error message I get on my FP3 and dash digital readout..."b2206 - engine run / start switch open / shorted high". What puzzles me is if it was shorted the bike would not start...but all electrical works and bike runs great.
I did install new bars and made sure nothing was crimped and all is secure with ties.
I have 6500 miles and have done my own maintenance with the help of the service manual. So my concern is when I take it to the dealer they may blame my bar install....since it happened after the install.
Thanks in advance.
Can You shut the bike down using the start run switch?If so,then switch is OK.If not,I would take the right switch housing loose and check for wire damage.
i realize i'm late to the party but i had the same code. b2206. i found the connector at the neck of the frame on the right hand side had come loose. must have occurred during cleaning is all i can figure. Full day wasted searching. 1 sec fix.
I have the same b2206. In diags with the run off the code clears but if I run the diags with the run enabled it won't. It's kinda wired too. Sometimes I will get a wire fault and then a VIN ERR. If I shut everything down and stick my finger in the access hole deep enough to wiggle the wire that's in the middle the VIN ERR and wire fault light goes away. I've been doing this every morning for about a month to put it in a better mood. I was thinking if I could grow some hair around the hole, I could call it my girlfriend It's at the dealer now for a different reason but, they said they would give it the finger while they have it.
I got it back from the dealer with the same wire fault. So I decided to take on the task.I started pulling wires out of the access hole near the steering head. What do you know! I found a bunch of connector wires taped together with black tape. Looked amature too. It was kinda gooey but I got all the tape off. It looks like someone tried to hide a damaged kinked wire, There;s a a single white wire with a gray strip with a kink in it and the copper insert was pulled out from the plastic connector. I insured the copper connector back inside the plastic housing and no more wire fault. I spent at least 6 hours working on this issue not to mention all the hours of research and and time at the dealer. I feel Harley Davidson owes me at least $800.00 in labor cost
Notice the white wire with the kink in it. I only discovered the issue after taking off the black electrical tape (see PIC). When I pulled on the white wire the copper insert on the end of the wire came out of the plastic connector. I put it back inside the connector and the wire fault went away. Since I'm the first owner of the bike this must have been done at one of the two dealerships that had it because I don't think the manufacture would let a bike out of the plant this way. I got her at 155 miles this May so the repair job didn't last. Whatever the case may be, I found root cause. The dealer will now have to come up with a permanent solution and I have full warranty too.
Mine did the same thing after installing apes. I was terrified it was a shorted wire in the bars. I started poking around and found a pin that pulled out of a plug in the wire extensions I got from Harley. Pulled the cable and plug, re-inserted the pin until I heard click, checked it and went right back in. All codes and the red light in dash are gone.
Mine does this only when it is cold out, like 40 degrees cold. I think the wire got stretched a little bit, and then the cold exacerbates it when the wire contracts causing extra resistance. I clear the code, let it run a bit, and it runs fine. When it is warmer than 50 no code. I don;t often ride in that cold a weather, so it hasn't caused an issue to require teradown and replacement. I do have all the parts to do the swap to the CVO throttle which has inverted genders from the Special.
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