It's been a while since I've had to open up the switch housing and I was running late to work because of this switch problem, so I couldn't get into the service manual. Are the switches replaceable as single units, or will the whole group need replaced? Or has any one experience what I describle below and able to correct it by pulling the switches and cleaning everything?

Was getting ready to leave for work. Turned on the ignition switch, clicked the Run/Off switch to Run and the FI didn't kick off and the diagnostic light didn't light up. Mashed the started button and nothing. Cycled the ignition and Run switches a couple more times and nothing. All the lights and radio were on, so I knew it wasn't a battery issue. Pushed it back to into the garage and decided to try again, click run and the FI pimed and I was able to start it up. Played around with the switch and it's not making contact every time. If I wiggle it a certain way it will make contact and everything works fine.

Any suggestions? Check for loose wires and clean switch? Is it possible to replace the Run/Off switch by itself? Does the whole group of switches have to be replaced?

Thanks in advance for any info.

 

Bump...

 

From what ah've seen, I'd think the switch is independently replaceable.&nbsp\\; Haven't been into that side, but have on the other....

 

Good, I was hoping for that. Looked up parts online and they sell the switches as individual units. Should have grabbed my service manual when I run out the door, but was running late trying to get it started. Once started, it runs fine and no problem on 16 mile ride to work. Will dissassemble and check it out&nbsp\\;tonight when I get home, and if necessary pick up a switch Friday when I drop it off for new tires.

 

Try some contact cleaner in on it as well.&nbsp\\; Spray it in good, then blow it out w/compressed air.

 

Yes, the individual switch groups are replacable (engine run/stop and start switch). Part #71589-96B&nbsp\\;

 

Thanks for the info. Checked Latus HD for price and they have a&nbsp\\;special price listed. Origionally listed for $37.75, but you can get it for the low low price of $41. If I can't get it to operate correctly after looking at it I'll check prices here on Island. One of the local HD shops gives&nbsp\\;a military discount. That alone would cover the extra shipping&nbsp\\;cost&nbsp\\;if ordered from CONUS.

 

I don't use my stop/run switch...I suppose I should check to see if it working, just in case. It is nice to know that just the single switch is replaceable.

 

For those that want to know...the final answer is:&nbsp\\;Replace the Engine Stop and Engine Start switches as a single assembly even if only one is determined to be bad. (That is straight from the manual). It also states that the replacement switch wires come&nbsp\\;precut to 2 and&nbsp\\; 2 1/2" in length. So you have to cut the old switches out and splice in&nbsp\\;the new ones. Exact same thing for the Hi/Lo &amp\\; horn switches.&nbsp\\;
&nbsp\\;
I think I'll try to get this switch&nbsp\\;working so that I don't have to try and&nbsp\\;stuff&nbsp\\;a big rat nest of spliced wires back&nbsp\\;into the switch housing.

 

Well, so much for keeping this switch. Took the bike in Friday for new tires. Left the shop and got about 3 miles when I was sitting at a stoplight and the switch acted up. Had to push bike to the side and fiddle with it for 2-3 minutes before I could get it going. I put out a couple emails for price +s/h to Hawaii before going back to the local HD. Found that the replacement is about $35-40 for direct OEM replacement. Part #71589-96B&nbsp\\;was replaced by part #71684-06. Drag Specialities replacement (2106-0023) is about $20 from gopartsdirect.com. Local shop didn't have it in stock, so I checked with the service dept to see if they had a used one from a control swap. Thankfully they did.&nbsp\\; After about an hour in the garage splicing it in, all is well again. I took my time, staggered the splices, and covered each wire with shrink tubing.