Checking front engine mount capscrews
Hi
i do have a service manual and have some questions about checking these. What do you have to remove besides lower fairings to get at these? Has anyone checked theirs and found them loose? Do you need to remove rear brake pedal. Would like to hear from anyone with good advice. I am working on a 15 RGS that has never been at a dealer since new. Has 9000 miles on it.
i do have a service manual and have some questions about checking these. What do you have to remove besides lower fairings to get at these? Has anyone checked theirs and found them loose? Do you need to remove rear brake pedal. Would like to hear from anyone with good advice. I am working on a 15 RGS that has never been at a dealer since new. Has 9000 miles on it.
Have never done this, but congrats on owning a service manual and staying out of the service dept. More people should maintain there bikes. Harleys are fairly simple to work on, basic tools and a few YT videos and anything is possible.
Thanks I enjoy doing my own. No disrespect to dealers, some great people work at them but have heard enough accounts of poor customer service...........there is an Indy close by that I would go to if I need help.
Are you talking about the two Bolts that come up from the bottom of the frame? If so I just checked mine on my 14 SGS and it's no big deal. You can get to both of them from the bottom of the bike with a torque wrench and a box wrench to hold the top nuts which you can get onto very easily from the left side of the bike right under the oil filter. Torque spec is 36-40 Ft lbs. Let me know any problems and I'll go take a couple of pics for you if needed. Oh by the way mine were both a touch loose at about 32 ft lbs.
You don't have to remove anything. The three screws on the right side mount are easily accessible to the torque wrench. Make sure you are on the mount screws and not the ones that fasten the footboard.
The two screws that hold on the front mount are harder to get to, but still not difficult, and nothing need be removed. You have to get down onto the floor, or have the bike up on a lift. Put the wrench on the screwhead below the mount, from the underside, rather than on the nuts up top, which are kind of hidden by the oil filter, though still accessible with a proper wrench if necessary. The instructions, as I recall, say to attempt to turn the screw (not the nut) at a certain torque spec, and if it doesn't turn then you're fine. If you need to get at the nuts up top, it is easier if you remove the oil filter.
All my mount screws, front and right side, were barely finger tight when I double checked them right after I paid $400 for the 1000 mile service at the selling dealer. I doubt anybody at a dealership does what they get paid to do.
The two screws that hold on the front mount are harder to get to, but still not difficult, and nothing need be removed. You have to get down onto the floor, or have the bike up on a lift. Put the wrench on the screwhead below the mount, from the underside, rather than on the nuts up top, which are kind of hidden by the oil filter, though still accessible with a proper wrench if necessary. The instructions, as I recall, say to attempt to turn the screw (not the nut) at a certain torque spec, and if it doesn't turn then you're fine. If you need to get at the nuts up top, it is easier if you remove the oil filter.
All my mount screws, front and right side, were barely finger tight when I double checked them right after I paid $400 for the 1000 mile service at the selling dealer. I doubt anybody at a dealership does what they get paid to do.
You don't have to remove anything. The three screws on the right side mount are easily accessible to the torque wrench. Make sure you are on the mount screws and not the ones that fasten the footboard.
The two screws that hold on the front mount are harder to get to, but still not difficult, and nothing need be removed. You have to get down onto the floor, or have the bike up on a lift. Put the wrench on the screwhead below the mount, from the underside, rather than on the nuts up top, which are kind of hidden by the oil filter, though still accessible with a proper wrench if necessary. The instructions, as I recall, say to attempt to turn the screw (not the nut) at a certain torque spec, and if it doesn't turn then you're fine. If you need to get at the nuts up top, it is easier if you remove the oil filter.
All my mount screws, front and right side, were barely finger tight when I double checked them right after I paid $400 for the 1000 mile service at the selling dealer. I doubt anybody at a dealership does what they get paid to do.
The two screws that hold on the front mount are harder to get to, but still not difficult, and nothing need be removed. You have to get down onto the floor, or have the bike up on a lift. Put the wrench on the screwhead below the mount, from the underside, rather than on the nuts up top, which are kind of hidden by the oil filter, though still accessible with a proper wrench if necessary. The instructions, as I recall, say to attempt to turn the screw (not the nut) at a certain torque spec, and if it doesn't turn then you're fine. If you need to get at the nuts up top, it is easier if you remove the oil filter.
All my mount screws, front and right side, were barely finger tight when I double checked them right after I paid $400 for the 1000 mile service at the selling dealer. I doubt anybody at a dealership does what they get paid to do.
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