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Replacing Primary Cover screws

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Old Apr 18, 2018 | 07:19 AM
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Default Replacing Primary Cover screws

I was thinking about chaNGING the screws/bolts on the Derby cover from Torx to Allen/Hex. I'm tired of stripping those heads on the Torx because a tech power tightened them! At one time I had the dimensions of the bolts but I have lost that info. Does anybody know the correct dimensions of the bolt?

Also, would you go stainless steel or chrome?

Lastly, where do you go to buy them?
 
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Old Apr 18, 2018 | 07:26 AM
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The moral of this story is to not let a "tech" within wrenching distance of your ride.
 
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Old Apr 18, 2018 | 07:30 AM
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People go crazy tightening those bolts or even putting a torq wrench on them, hand tighten the 1/4 turn is all it needs, also the o-ring on the cover I change it out every 5th oil change.
 
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Old Apr 18, 2018 | 08:43 AM
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Anti-seize and a T27 torx. It's the dissimilar metal that makes them tough to get out sometimes.

I'm NOT saying you OP, but the 4 most common mistakes on derby bolts are:

Using a T25 instead of a T27
Not putting anti-seize on threads
Putting Loctite on the threads (none needed)
Improper torque which sometimes is really #2
 

Last edited by Campy Roadie; Apr 18, 2018 at 08:44 AM.
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Old Apr 18, 2018 | 10:53 AM
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I switched from Allen to torx. I haven’t stripped a single one or even come close.
 
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Old Apr 18, 2018 | 11:15 AM
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The bolts are 1/4 x 20. I think the length is 1/2 but not sure about that. I use stainless steel allen heads from Lowes.
 
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Old Apr 18, 2018 | 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by 30glock
People go crazy tightening those bolts or even putting a torq wrench on them, hand tighten the 1/4 turn is all it needs, also the o-ring on the cover I change it out every 5th oil change.
I agree you can use the cover o-ring multiple times if you've got the rubber ring that fits into the derby cover slot. If you've got a bike with the gasket, I'd recommend replacing it every time.

I'm also not sure that I'd trust the 1/4 turn past hand tight. I don't recall the exact torque spec, but I've done what you suggested and then put my torque wrench on the screws and had to tighten more. I'd always suggest you use a torque wrench to check the screws, although since they are torqued to an inch pounds spec, its likely you can hit the spec by hand tightening.
 
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Old Apr 18, 2018 | 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Nomadmax
Anti-seize and a T27 torx. It's the dissimilar metal that makes them tough to get out sometimes.

I'm NOT saying you OP, but the 4 most common mistakes on derby bolts are:

Using a T25 instead of a T27
Not putting anti-seize on threads
Putting Loctite on the threads (none needed)
Improper torque which sometimes is really #2
My problem has been your #4:
Improper torque ( by a young tech at the dealer)
Second problem(owner caused..LOL!) : draining primary BEFORE loosening the 5 torx screws, to make sure you can get them out. If two of the screws get stripped, you have to find an impact driver, etc...you know the routine. What a PITA!
 
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Old Apr 18, 2018 | 03:27 PM
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I put stainless Allen-heads on my 1999 RK way back (sold since). I've been thinking about doing the same with my 2015 Limited, but have not done so yet.

I dont recall where I got them way back, but will check to see if I kept any packaging/receipt/etc.

I had used ............ and forgive me if this is not the correct term ..... the 'cylindrical head' style Allen heads, rather than the 'rounded head' style Allen heads you can get today (which are a closer match APPEARANCE-wise to the factory screws - personally I did not care about the appearance).

J&P has them. Plenty on ebay. Some probably better than others, like anything else.
 
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Old Apr 19, 2018 | 07:20 AM
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I got mine at Ace Hardware.1/4x20. Take one of your torx with you to match length....
 
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