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Old Mar 25, 2021 | 07:45 AM
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Default Fork Oil Change

Guys, What's a fair price to have the dealer change fork oil on my 2014 Road King. I have a batwing fairing with tunes on the way and want to use a slightly heavier fork oil. It looks like doing it myself would be a PIA. Thanks
 
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Old Mar 25, 2021 | 08:02 AM
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just changing the oil would not be hard at all, if you know your way around your tool, there is nothing to it, I stressed myself over changing my lowers to black, it was dead easy!
 
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Old Mar 25, 2021 | 08:26 AM
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Originally Posted by scott_0
just changing the oil would not be hard at all, if you know your way around your tool, there is nothing to it, I stressed myself over changing my lowers to black, it was dead easy!
I've been know to turn a wrench or two. Looks like a pain with no drain hole
 
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Old Mar 25, 2021 | 08:49 AM
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Originally Posted by bmur66
I've been know to turn a wrench or two. Looks like a pain with no drain hole
Hopefully someone else will verify or correct.as I own a pre-Rushmore machine. From the diagrams on Ronnie's site it appears that the same bolt that holds the lowest internal part in place on the bottom of the fork leg also functions as the drain hole when removed. My concern is that the top plug on the fork tube appears to no longer have a bolt screwed into it so there is no easy way to install new fluid at the top. That leaves the only shade tree option as removing the fork leg from the triple tree and turning it upside down and adding new fluid through the "drain hole". Is this correct?
 
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Old Mar 25, 2021 | 09:16 AM
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Originally Posted by btsom
Hopefully someone else will verify or correct.as I own a pre-Rushmore machine. From the diagrams on Ronnie's site it appears that the same bolt that holds the lowest internal part in place on the bottom of the fork leg also functions as the drain hole when removed. My concern is that the top plug on the fork tube appears to no longer have a bolt screwed into it so there is no easy way to install new fluid at the top. That leaves the only shade tree option as removing the fork leg from the triple tree and turning it upside down and adding new fluid through the "drain hole". Is this correct?
This is correct. Furthermore, you have drain and fill (and measure) the fluid with the Spring assembly (guts) removed - so full disassembly is required unlike 2013 and below forks.
Also, reassembly can be a chore if you don't have a specially tool to compress the spring and set the cap; although, some have made do with making a home build press or what have you.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2021 | 09:57 AM
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Originally Posted by lp
This is correct. Furthermore, you have drain and fill (and measure) the fluid with the Spring assembly (guts) removed - so full disassembly is required unlike 2013 and below forks.
Also, reassembly can be a chore if you don't have a specially tool to compress the spring and set the cap; although, some have made do with making a home build press or what have you.
Thanks guys. That is kinda how I figured it is done. I would probably prefer to pay someone to do it if it's not too much.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2021 | 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by lp
This is correct. Furthermore, you have drain and fill (and measure) the fluid with the Spring assembly (guts) removed - so full disassembly is required unlike 2013 and below forks.
Also, reassembly can be a chore if you don't have a specially tool to compress the spring and set the cap; although, some have made do with making a home build press or what have you.
Thank you for the confirmation on the lack of a fill hole on top. I agree with your filling statement for a DRY FILL. For a fluid CHANGE, replacing the quantity that came out with a like quantity to fill should yield the same fluid level as the previous fill. Spring in or out is not a factor in this case, presuming no leak since the previous fill. I removed the top cap on my pre-Rushmore fork tube and getting it reinstalled without the specialty tool is one of the most difficult "shade tree" jobs I have ever done.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2021 | 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by lp
Also, reassembly can be a chore if you don't have a specially tool to compress the spring and set the cap; although, some have made do with making a home build press or what have you.
I had no special tools when I did my black lowers, I did it by myself no problem what so ever. Have you done it? or passing on what you've heard?...
 
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Old Mar 25, 2021 | 10:51 AM
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Just got off the phone with my dealer. I think I will remove the forks myself and take them to the dealer. I will have them replace seals and everything. Should be about 1.5 hours labor. Much more if they did the entire job. He recommended the Screaming Eagle fork oil. I think that may be too heavy. I have heard of some people mixing SE/Regular HD fork oil 50/50. I may do that.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2021 | 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by scott_0
I had no special tools when I did my black lowers, I did it by myself no problem what so ever. Have you done it? or passing on what you've heard?...
I've done it many times. It's typically a chore for one person to try and compress the spring and thread the cap at the same time but some can get it done (I've read) - I use a JIMS Fork Cap Installation tool which makes it very easy.

Originally Posted by btsom
Thank you for the confirmation on the lack of a fill hole on top. I agree with your filling statement for a DRY FILL. For a fluid CHANGE, replacing the quantity that came out with a like quantity to fill should yield the same fluid level as the previous fill. Spring in or out is not a factor in this case, presuming no leak since the previous fill. I removed the top cap on my pre-Rushmore fork tube and getting it reinstalled without the specialty tool is one of the most difficult "shade tree" jobs I have ever done.
Sure... you could drain the old oil into a container and measure that for refill; although, it certainly was easier to do it that way for 2013 and below because you could do it with the fork still in the bike.
When you attempt this on the newer forks, you have to take the thing out of the bike and remove the top cap and everything wants to come flying out.

By the book, there is no Wet vs Dry fill. You instead fill to a specific level.
To do this correctly, the Spring is out, fork tube fully bottomed into the slider, pour in 24 ounces, insert oil level gauge set at 3.7 inches from top, then suck out the excess.
I would guess I typically pull out an ounce or less, but I've never measured what I took out.

So anyway, I've never been lucky to just get away with a quick "Fluid change".
It takes a lot to get to that point, so going the one-two steps more and doing it right, seemed the way to go. Inspect everything. I've found worn out top bushings once at 14K miles. No idea why. Wrong oil level maybe.

Originally Posted by bmur66
Just got off the phone with my dealer. I think I will remove the forks myself and take them to the dealer. I will have them replace seals and everything. Should be about 1.5 hours labor. Much more if they did the entire job. He recommended the Screaming Eagle fork oil. I think that may be too heavy. I have heard of some people mixing SE/Regular HD fork oil 50/50. I may do that.
Did a friends bike the other day and he insisted on SE oil. He regrets it. I tried to tell him....
 

Last edited by lp; Mar 25, 2021 at 02:22 PM.
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