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DTC b2223

Old Jul 11, 2021 | 10:57 AM
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Default DTC b2223

I was coming back from a 60 mile ride yesterday in 87° weather when my electrical systems lamp came on. Before too long, it went back off.

When I got home, I ran diagnostics and the BCM threw code b2223 with p/n 69994-12b as the affected part..

However code b2223 shows "Rear brake switch shorted low (light on).

Also my cruise control would come on but not engage. which leads me to believe the shorted switch.

I went out this AM and the rear brake light is working normally.

Could this be as simple as replacing the FOB battery, or could it be the rear brake switch that shorts out when hot, or could it be p/n 69994-12b Body Control Module??

Any opinions? Our service dept is backed up, and right now it's A799-No trouble found.
 
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Old Jul 12, 2021 | 12:55 PM
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After my first post on this subject, and all the responses received, I replaced the FOB battery.

I went on another ride today, 91° and turned the cruise control on, and it engaged. Rode around, stop and go traffic, very hot, and the red electrical systems light came on again. Tried to engage the cruise, would not engage. So the FOB battery was not the problem.

I pulled over under the shade of a tree, and my brake light was on constantly. That explains why the cruise control would not engage.

I am back home not, and will let it cool off, and look at the rear brake switch.

I might also drain some fluid out of the rear brakes to see if that helps. I had the dealer flush the brakes in January and was thinking if they put too much fluid in or maybe got air in the system, when it gets hot and expands, triggers the brake switch.





 
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Old Jul 12, 2021 | 04:06 PM
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I had looked up the DTC in my electrical diagnostic manual and I had even drafted a response where I quoted what the manual had to say. Then, I was going to offer my suggestions for what you should try, but I ended up deleting it.

Now that you’ve added new information about the brake light being stuck on, when before it was working properly, and that you think there is air in the brake lines, I know nothing I was going to suggest would have helped.

It sounds like you’ve got a handle on things. Good luck and I hope you get it worked out.

 
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Old Jul 12, 2021 | 04:27 PM
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Most likely you have a bad rear brake light switch. Or a shorter wire. Draining out Brake fluid is not going to help . And it is not because you were riding in warm weather.
 
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Old Jul 12, 2021 | 06:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Sandcrab
After my first post on this subject, and all the responses received, I replaced the FOB battery.

I went on another ride today, 91° and turned the cruise control on, and it engaged. Rode around, stop and go traffic, very hot, and the red electrical systems light came on again. Tried to engage the cruise, would not engage. So the FOB battery was not the problem.

I pulled over under the shade of a tree, and my brake light was on constantly. That explains why the cruise control would not engage.

I am back home not, and will let it cool off, and look at the rear brake switch.

I might also drain some fluid out of the rear brakes to see if that helps. I had the dealer flush the brakes in January and was thinking if they put too much fluid in or maybe got air in the system, when it gets hot and expands, triggers the brake switch.
It wouldn't need to be air in the system. If it's over filled it can cause pressure to build in the system, lightly applying the brakes and engaging the switch. It's rare but I've seen it in trucks.

It's more likely that the switch is faulty and only acts up hot but verifying the fluid level is a good basic first step.
 
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Old Jul 13, 2021 | 08:10 AM
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My switch was sticking on my 2015 flhtk. I sprayed it with contact cleaner and electrical lube and havent had an issue since.
 
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Old Jul 13, 2021 | 11:18 AM
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Default Rear brake light switch

Originally Posted by gigihurt
My switch was sticking on my 2015 flhtk. I sprayed it with contact cleaner and electrical lube and havent had an issue since.
Where is the rear brake light switch located?

Never mind, looked it up on parts diagram. It looks ok, and looks like a bitch to get out.

 

Last edited by Sandcrab; Jul 13, 2021 at 11:48 AM.
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Old Jul 13, 2021 | 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by GalvTexGuy
I had looked up the DTC in my electrical diagnostic manual and I had even drafted a response where I quoted what the manual had to say. Then, I was going to offer my suggestions for what you should try, but I ended up deleting it.

Now that you’ve added new information about the brake light being stuck on, when before it was working properly, and that you think there is air in the brake lines, I know nothing I was going to suggest would have helped.

It sounds like you’ve got a handle on things. Good luck and I hope you get it worked out.
It works properly when it is cold, but once it gets hot, it stays on. I think it is the rear brake like switch, but have not pulled any of the wires off as I just located it today, and it is one hard switch to get to.
 
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Old Jul 13, 2021 | 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by smitty901
Most likely you have a bad rear brake light switch. Or a shorter wire. Draining out Brake fluid is not going to help . And it is not because you were riding in warm weather.
OK, maybe not the weather, but when it is cold, it works fine. After riding a while, the brake light stays on. After it cools off, it works fine again. So maybe not weather related but definitely heat related.
 
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Old Jul 13, 2021 | 01:57 PM
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It is not air in the system, your pedal would be mush. It is not overfilled, just look at the sight glass on the side of the master cylinder.

The brake light switch is probably sticking when it gets hot, and will need replacing. Next time the lights stay on, unplug it to make sure it is the problem, and not the hand control. It will be HOT down there.
 
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