Primary chain tensioner
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Road Master
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 1,078
Likes: 267
From: New England
Primary chain tensioner
What's everybody running for a primary chain tensioner? I have to remove my primary cover for a separate issue soon and considering replacing my OEM tensioner while I'm in there. I'm looking at the Baker manual-style one now.
Cruiser
Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 188
Likes: 37
From: Big Rock Va
I use the hayden no problems so far.
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Road Master
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 1,078
Likes: 267
From: New England
The Hayden is an "automatic" style tensioner just like the OEM unit, correct? I think I'd rather go with a manual type unit so there's no way of the chain over-tightening itself.
Cruiser
Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 188
Likes: 37
From: Big Rock Va
It flexes up and down has springs under the shoe it don't tighten up like the oem manual would be a good one too.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 5,315
Likes: 4,272
From: Granville New York
Another vote for the Hayden. Eliminated alot of the first gear clunk. Great price too...you can buy alot of beer and gas with money you saved not buying a baker...nothing wrong with them other than that price tag. Only word of caution if you use the Hayden is make sure you put the shoe on the right way.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 14,160
Likes: 11,249
From: San Diego, CA
What year is your bike and what issues are you having.....??
FWIW... the first primary auto tensioner debuted on a few models in 2006, and was OEM across the line in 2007... That version was problematic (#39929-06A). It caused the primary chain to overtighten, and that caused other related issues.
In 2010, HD upgraded the primary auto tensioner to #39929-06B. Since that upgrade, it has been far less problematic. Just don't do hard downshifts until the primary is up to temp and in most cases it doesn't over tighten the primary change.
I used the #39929-06B OEM tensioner in my 2016 Bagger with a 124" S&S engine (135HP & 151TQ) and it worked just fine...
The newer version has a beefier frame for less flex, smaller teeth and less teeth on one of the ramps to allow for smaller incremental changes, and one or two other things I can't remember..
Here is a pic of the two different auto tensioners. the new "B: version is on top. You can see it's a better built tensioner..
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Thread Starter
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Road Master
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 1,078
Likes: 267
From: New England
What year is your bike and what issues are you having.....??
FWIW... the first primary auto tensioner debuted on a few models in 2006, and was OEM across the line in 2007... That version was problematic (#39929-06A). It caused the primary chain to overtighten, and that caused other related issues.
In 2010, HD upgraded the primary auto tensioner to #39929-06B. Since that upgrade, it has been far less problematic. Just don't do hard downshifts until the primary is up to temp and in most cases it doesn't over tighten the primary change.
I used the #39929-06B OEM tensioner in my 2016 Bagger with a 124" S&S engine (135HP & 151TQ) and it worked just fine...
The newer version has a beefier frame for less flex, smaller teeth and less teeth on one of the ramps to allow for smaller incremental changes, and one or two other things I can't remember..
FWIW... the first primary auto tensioner debuted on a few models in 2006, and was OEM across the line in 2007... That version was problematic (#39929-06A). It caused the primary chain to overtighten, and that caused other related issues.
In 2010, HD upgraded the primary auto tensioner to #39929-06B. Since that upgrade, it has been far less problematic. Just don't do hard downshifts until the primary is up to temp and in most cases it doesn't over tighten the primary change.
I used the #39929-06B OEM tensioner in my 2016 Bagger with a 124" S&S engine (135HP & 151TQ) and it worked just fine...
The newer version has a beefier frame for less flex, smaller teeth and less teeth on one of the ramps to allow for smaller incremental changes, and one or two other things I can't remember..
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 10,068
Likes: 5,320
On my 14 Limited, I replaced the original at around 45K. The original was not over tight when I inspected it before removing it. Wear on the shoe was, I think, normal for that mileage. I would have felt comfortable putting more miles on it. I went back with another new OEM.
