Installing 2" Pullback Bars FLHTK (Pics included)
Intermediate
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
From: Nelson BC Canada
Hi JT I've been following your post on 2" reach bar exchange on your 2014. I road down to Spokane Wa. today to pick up mine. Never thought to look in the box till 10 min. from home. This is after a 3.5 hr. ride home back to Canada.
when I got home and took them out of the box, they look the same as the one that came on my Tri Glide stock. Before I take all this apart did yours look pretty much the same before you exchanged them??? The box was labeled 2" reach. Am I missing something??
Any help on this would be much appreciated.
Or anyone else
when I got home and took them out of the box, they look the same as the one that came on my Tri Glide stock. Before I take all this apart did yours look pretty much the same before you exchanged them??? The box was labeled 2" reach. Am I missing something?? Any help on this would be much appreciated. Or anyone else
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 5,105
Likes: 16
From: Blaine, WA
I compared a set to those one a stock bike on the showroom flour - they are very similar visually even when held next to the others. Mostly they are angled back more sharply and might be a touch longer in the grip area. I didn't get a set because I didn't want to change the angle there.
Road Master
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,092
Likes: 1
From: USA
Just don't wire them internally, if you ever need a new Twist Grip Sensor (TBW) and you are still under warranty, your dealer might decide to re-wire your whole set of handlebars without telling you then charge you for it.
I swear to God that JUST happened to me last month.
They do look great though,and that was an awesome post.
I swear to God that JUST happened to me last month.
They do look great though,and that was an awesome post.
Road Captain
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 532
Likes: 9
JT Thanks for the awesome post and directions. After reading through this, I am going to take the plunge this week. Two questions/observations.
1. Why did you need to pull the fairing shell? Is there something underneath you need access too?
2. I am thinking I can just loosen the upper(or lower) side bolts and rotate/tilt the fairing on them rather than completely remove. Or is there something I am missing?
I will let you know how it works out.
1. Why did you need to pull the fairing shell? Is there something underneath you need access too?
2. I am thinking I can just loosen the upper(or lower) side bolts and rotate/tilt the fairing on them rather than completely remove. Or is there something I am missing?
I will let you know how it works out.
Intermediate
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
From: Nelson BC Canada
Well did it.
Pretty much followed JT. instruction and pics. No problems.. Thanks JT. I kept waiting for the hard part you know were the 8-9 hrs. worth the work was going to be that my HD dears quoted me. took me about 3 hrs. Maybe he misunderstood what I was asking him 
. Just a note that I first pulled a string though the new bars before I put the on then attached the throttle wire to it and just pulled it thought. It was my first Bat Wing I've ever work on, I'm sure that if I had to do it again it would be a lot faster.
Took some pics with the phone as I took thing apart. Sure helped putting things back together. The mind isn't what it used to be.
Took it for a test ride differently feels better. Can't say it's back 2" but fells better. The new handle bars fit perfectly in the cradle exactly the way the old ones did. Maybe they changed the bars. I know others have said that they didn't quite fit right. Mine did. Good luck to others. Pretty basic tools and a torque wrench. I also have the service manuals for the 2014 Touring models and the 2014 Tri Glide. I think that's a must if your going to work on your own bike.
Picked up my new J&S Trike jack today as well. I'll be put on my DK lift on Sunday.
Thanks again JT.
Pretty much followed JT. instruction and pics. No problems.. Thanks JT. I kept waiting for the hard part you know were the 8-9 hrs. worth the work was going to be that my HD dears quoted me. took me about 3 hrs. Maybe he misunderstood what I was asking him . Just a note that I first pulled a string though the new bars before I put the on then attached the throttle wire to it and just pulled it thought. It was my first Bat Wing I've ever work on, I'm sure that if I had to do it again it would be a lot faster.Took some pics with the phone as I took thing apart. Sure helped putting things back together. The mind isn't what it used to be.
Took it for a test ride differently feels better. Can't say it's back 2" but fells better. The new handle bars fit perfectly in the cradle exactly the way the old ones did. Maybe they changed the bars. I know others have said that they didn't quite fit right. Mine did. Good luck to others. Pretty basic tools and a torque wrench. I also have the service manuals for the 2014 Touring models and the 2014 Tri Glide. I think that's a must if your going to work on your own bike.
Picked up my new J&S Trike jack today as well. I'll be put on my DK lift on Sunday.
Thanks again JT.
Tourer
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 251
Likes: 40
From: Silver City, NM
I was told by two different dealers that on a 14 SGS that it needs longer hydraulic lines, as well as an extension for the throttle wire. Almost 900 in parts + 8-9 hours labor. They also said the new 14's are a low voltage system on the throttle wire and resistance is a big deal on them
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Joe Kucinski
Intermediate
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
From: Nelson BC Canada
I never changed a thing. Never took off the hydraulic lines off, wires were plenty long. I used the bars HD# 56176-08. loosen the hydraulic lines "ever so slightly" just to turn them a bit after everything was back on. Other then the throttle wire the other wires were straped to the out side of the bars. Thats the way they came from HD. It didn't come with heated grips, but even if it did fishing them though the bars wouldn't be that big a deal. I fished the throttle wire through. I hope this helps everyone.