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Picking up a 14 UC next weekend, I was going to order a Dyna beep beep horn from the new FXDL to remove the cowbell and relocate the new horn to the frame down tubes but the keep saying no, no, no - you can't change the wiring at all. Is this correct? My plan was to simply extend the wires going to the horn and plug into the new horn at the new location.......still two wire connection right? Will that cause a problem? Can I still use regular stranded automotive wire? Not really up on what you can and cant do with the canbus system.
CAN bus is weird stuff. I installed heated grips on my '14 RK and followed HD's pre-'14 instructions. Said to take switched battery power and ground off the unused fender light terminal in the headlight housing.
Guess what, with key on the power was ok to the terminal and the yellow position lights worked. When the grips were activated the body control module shut down the power to the grips and lights, and threw a R2169 code (think that's the right number).
So I ran the grip power rearward to the HD adapter that takes it off the top 8-pin plug under the fuse box. Also installed a HD garage door opener off the same adapter. They now work as intended.
Horn. If the new horn has similar resistance in ohms as the factory you should be ok. If not, maybe not. The system looks at amperage/current flow to control the circuit like a fuse in my experience from above. Use only one horn. Adding a second in parallel will drop the equivalent resistance in the circuit. The CAN god may not like that.
CAN bus is weird stuff. I installed heated grips on my '14 RK and followed HD's pre-'14 instructions. Said to take switched battery power and ground off the unused fender light terminal in the headlight housing.
Guess what, with key on the power was ok to the terminal and the yellow position lights worked. When the grips were activated the body control module shut down the power to the grips and lights, and threw a R2169 code (think that's the right number).
So I ran the grip power rearward to the HD adapter that takes it off the top 8-pin plug under the fuse box. Also installed a HD garage door opener off the same adapter. They now work as intended.
Horn. If the new horn has similar resistance in ohms as the factory you should be ok. If not, maybe not. The system looks at amperage/current flow to control the circuit like a fuse in my experience from above. Use only one horn. Adding a second in parallel will drop the equivalent resistance in the circuit. The CAN god may not like that.
I'm not adding a horn, rather my plan is to remove the stock cow bell along with the rubber mount, extend the wires and install a replacement horn mounted just under the center crash bar attachment on the frame - pretty much invisible and I don't use the horn much anyway so loudness is a non issue. Same as I did on the Dyna - looks much better without it I think.
I think I'll go ahead and order the horn now, sounds like it should be a fairly low risk as to causing an issue - maybe test the two of them before hand.
When adding things it would probably be better (easier) to use an auxiliary fuse block wired to the battery, that way you can add what you need without interference from the bike.
I'm not adding a horn, rather my plan is to remove the stock cow bell along with the rubber mount, extend the wires and install a replacement horn mounted just under the center crash bar attachment on the frame - pretty much invisible and I don't use the horn much anyway so loudness is a non issue. Same as I did on the Dyna - looks much better without it I think.
I think I'll go ahead and order the horn now, sounds like it should be a fairly low risk as to causing an issue - maybe test the two of them before hand.
When adding things it would probably be better (easier) to use an auxiliary fuse block wired to the battery, that way you can add what you need without interference from the bike.
Should be a fun project. Let us know how it works.
From: Left Ohio for the middle of no where in Fla.
I have an airhorn with a self-contained compressor. Since the compressor requires 12 amps, it uses a relay, the horn switch and wiring aren't meant for that kind of current.
The stock wiring is +vdc and ground direct to the stock horn.
With CANBUS I'd suggest a relay to to be extra safe and sure.
Every airhorn I looked at sold with a relay.
Most of the relays for this use are all made to a specific standard and are all wired and terminal numbers the same.
Terminals #85 & 86 attach to the stock horn wiring, + 7 - are interchangeable.
Terminal #30 attached directly to the battery. I added an inline 15 amp fuse
Terminal #87 to the +side of the horn.
- side of horn to chassis ground.
Picking up a 14 UC next weekend, I was going to order a Dyna beep beep horn from the new FXDL to remove the cowbell and relocate the new horn to the frame down tubes but the keep saying no, no, no - you can't change the wiring at all. Is this correct? My plan was to simply extend the wires going to the horn and plug into the new horn at the new location.......still two wire connection right? Will that cause a problem? Can I still use regular stranded automotive wire? Not really up on what you can and cant do with the canbus system.
You shouldn't have a problem. The new horn will not draw any more amps than the OE one. If for some reason it draws more amps than the circuit is built for then the bcm will just shut the circuit down until the amp draw is reduced. Nothing will be smoked. If power is shut down then you will have to install a relay and use the +vdc OE horn wire to trigger the relay. The BCM output for the horn circuit is 5 amps.....ANY H-D OE horn will be fine.
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