Well....I'm headed out for a 1000 mile ride next weekend and I have 985 miles on the bike. My plane landed early from Rochester, MN so I decided to jump in and do it.

What a pain! But if you take your time....it's really not that bad.

OIL >

The draining wasn't that bad....it was a bit of a pain to take the drain bolt off because the bike is so low to the ground. replaced the rubber ring and reinstalled. The filter even with the special HD whatchamacallit drain cup it still got everywhere. It's also a pain to get the filter remover/installer cup off with the wires and stuff in the way. Which there was an easier way. Put in 3.5 quarts and think I'll be needing a touch more.

Does it matter if you check it hot or cold?


Primary >

Pretty straight forward. Replaced the orange gasket inside the derby cover and tighened the bolts in the wrong pattern so I loosened them and re-tighented in the correct pattern. You'd think they would sell 38 ounce bottles of fluid for it. A bit of a pain to pour 32 then have to open another for 6 more ounces.

Transmission >

Easy to tighten the drain bolt with a torque wrench due to the positioning of the bolt. Fill was a major pain other than just draining well and pouring 28 ounces. You can't see clean fluid on the dipstick AT ALL so I am just hoping it was at the correct level with 28oz. I have an EZ UP Centerstand and I must say the fluid ran down the entire length of the centerstand mounting bracket and puddled on the other side of the bike. THAT was a huge pain.

The oil plug was metal flake free but the primary and tranny had a touch of flakes (VERY LITTLE) and a bit of caked on metal sludge.

All in all...the filter was a major PITA but other than that....all else was OK.

I am used to the Goldwing which is oil, fliter and done. Every 30K I would change the final drive fluid.

Oh....I used >

Amsoil > 20W-50 Full Synth
Primary > Formula +
Tranny > Amsoil Full Synth 75W-110


Any filter removal - replacement tips for next time?

Dave

 

>> Does it matter if you check it hot or cold?

You should be checking engine oil at full operating temp. After a change, I ride it enough to get it up to full temp... check the dipstick... and then make a final small addition if needed.

 

THANK YOU MT !!!

I'll take her out for a spin tomorrow and top off.

 

Changed mine yesterday, same oil the OP used except 20-50 Amsoil Syn in primary. Engine took about 3.4 quarts to bring oil to the full line hot. Oil cooler and lines must hold a little over a half quart. Noticed neutral easier to find and bike seems to be a bit quieter. The rest of the 1000 service mi will be this weekend. Love the bike

 

You have PLENTY of oil in the engine. You don't want the level at the top of the gauge. Manual says the middle which is where mine is with only 3 qts. Otherwise you will be pulling oil into your air filter. You would be surprised how much oil expands when it gets hot! I agree the filter is a pain especially with the cooler lines right above. I only have the HD strap wrench and couldn't get it on the filter without disconnecting the cooler lines. I have to buy the cup style wrench or go to a K&N filter that has a nut on the end. Yes oil everywhere... pull off the plastic oil cooler cover and wipe it out or it will drip from there for days...

 

K&N with the nut....great suggestion. THANK YOU !

 

13 Heritage here. Did my 1K myself last year. Just the other day did my 5K. Remove oil filter and no matter what, you guessed it, everywhere but into the drain pan. Engine, primary, and transmission though easy on the Softail. Now I reused my original o rings and primary gasket on the 1K service. Changed all on this recent service.
Used same oil that I use in my Cessna, Mobil 1

 

Only way to go, been using them for years!...Part # is K&N 171C for Chrome, or K&N 171B for Black.

 

Any suggestions on where to get the K&N filters? Thanks for the part numbers

 

Amazon - search 171B

$10 and change. Free delivery for prime members.