2015 Road Glide Boom Amp Install FYI (Outer fairing removal)
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Cruiser
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 124
Likes: 9
From: Milwaukee
2015 Road Glide Boom Amp Install FYI (Outer fairing removal)
Spent a week on the new bike and the audio left me a bit underwhelmed, so I went with the amp upgrade and the 6.5 Boom Audio Speakers. The book says you need the Tech Update and in fact, you do. (FYI, I'm only running front speakers)
Interesting though, the amp work's fine without the motor running but as soon as you hit start, it cuts out.
My dealer said they will do the flash no charge, since I bought the parts there. Great guys!
Huge improvement in volume and quality, not cheap but it works flawlessly.
The whole job took about 4 hrs, the seat, tank and outer fairing have to come off to access the wire duct, no big deal. Sorry, but I forgot to take photo's.
The fairing removal is pretty straight forward: Remove the lower torx screws on either side by the deflector wings (lower only), remove the hex screws by the turn signals, remove the speaker grills with a plastic pry bar and remove the torx screw on each side and finally, remove the (4) windshield screws. There are also (2) small CAN Bus connectors that need to be separated for each turn signal. Then the outer fairing comes off. (My manual isn't here yet, so I thought this might be useful)
After that the amp bolts up underneath the radio. The back screws are hard to get to, I used one hand to feed the bolt up from the front and used my other hand from the top to get the bolt started.
The guy who wrote the install sheet should be shot. Connector #299 ( a "Y" power connector purchased separately,PN 69200921) connects to a plugged connector up on the top left (facing front of bike) by the speaker. Connect the "Y" here, plug #299 into one end of the "Y" and the put the plug back into the third end of the "Y". This not mentioned in the instructions.
On another note, make sure you plug CAN Bus loop that you take out of 234A and plug in into the female end of 22. (Hard to see in the diagram)
Finally, 34 and 35 (L and Right looking from the front) plug connectors that are just to the left and right of the radio. Pull each one apart and plug m to f and f to m with each connector. Run the power back to the battery and your done.
When you have the diagram in front of you along with the explanation above, it should be pretty simple.
It was certainly worth the time and effort..., now I need to go in and get the ECM flashed!
Interesting though, the amp work's fine without the motor running but as soon as you hit start, it cuts out.
My dealer said they will do the flash no charge, since I bought the parts there. Great guys!
Huge improvement in volume and quality, not cheap but it works flawlessly.
The whole job took about 4 hrs, the seat, tank and outer fairing have to come off to access the wire duct, no big deal. Sorry, but I forgot to take photo's.
The fairing removal is pretty straight forward: Remove the lower torx screws on either side by the deflector wings (lower only), remove the hex screws by the turn signals, remove the speaker grills with a plastic pry bar and remove the torx screw on each side and finally, remove the (4) windshield screws. There are also (2) small CAN Bus connectors that need to be separated for each turn signal. Then the outer fairing comes off. (My manual isn't here yet, so I thought this might be useful)
After that the amp bolts up underneath the radio. The back screws are hard to get to, I used one hand to feed the bolt up from the front and used my other hand from the top to get the bolt started.
The guy who wrote the install sheet should be shot. Connector #299 ( a "Y" power connector purchased separately,PN 69200921) connects to a plugged connector up on the top left (facing front of bike) by the speaker. Connect the "Y" here, plug #299 into one end of the "Y" and the put the plug back into the third end of the "Y". This not mentioned in the instructions.
On another note, make sure you plug CAN Bus loop that you take out of 234A and plug in into the female end of 22. (Hard to see in the diagram)
Finally, 34 and 35 (L and Right looking from the front) plug connectors that are just to the left and right of the radio. Pull each one apart and plug m to f and f to m with each connector. Run the power back to the battery and your done.
When you have the diagram in front of you along with the explanation above, it should be pretty simple.
It was certainly worth the time and effort..., now I need to go in and get the ECM flashed!
Supporter
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 2,097
Likes: 48
From: eastern mi
Spent a week on the new bike and the audio left me a bit underwhelmed, so I went with the amp upgrade and the 6.5 Boom Audio Speakers. The book says you need the Tech Update and in fact, you do. (FYI, I'm only running front speakers)
Interesting though, the amp work's fine without the motor running but as soon as you hit start, it cuts out.
My dealer said they will do the flash no charge, since I bought the parts there. Great guys!
Huge improvement in volume and quality, not cheap but it works flawlessly.
The whole job took about 4 hrs, the seat, tank and outer fairing have to come off to access the wire duct, no big deal. Sorry, but I forgot to take photo's.
The fairing removal is pretty straight forward: Remove the lower torx screws on either side by the deflector wings (lower only), remove the hex screws by the turn signals, remove the speaker grills with a plastic pry bar and remove the torx screw on each side and finally, remove the (4) windshield screws. There are also (2) small CAN Bus connectors that need to be separated for each turn signal. Then the outer fairing comes off. (My manual isn't here yet, so I thought this might be useful)
After that the amp bolts up underneath the radio. The back screws are hard to get to, I used one hand to feed the bolt up from the front and used my other hand from the top to get the bolt started.
The guy who wrote the install sheet should be shot. Connector #299 ( a "Y" power connector purchased separately,PN 69200921) connects to a plugged connector up on the top left (facing front of bike) by the speaker. Connect the "Y" here, plug #299 into one end of the "Y" and the put the plug back into the third end of the "Y". This not mentioned in the instructions.
On another note, make sure you plug CAN Bus loop that you take out of 234A and plug in into the female end of 22. (Hard to see in the diagram)
Finally, 34 and 35 (L and Right looking from the front) plug connectors that are just to the left and right of the radio. Pull each one apart and plug m to f and f to m with each connector. Run the power back to the battery and your done.
When you have the diagram in front of you along with the explanation above, it should be pretty simple.
It was certainly worth the time and effort..., now I need to go in and get the ECM flashed!
Interesting though, the amp work's fine without the motor running but as soon as you hit start, it cuts out.
My dealer said they will do the flash no charge, since I bought the parts there. Great guys!
Huge improvement in volume and quality, not cheap but it works flawlessly.
The whole job took about 4 hrs, the seat, tank and outer fairing have to come off to access the wire duct, no big deal. Sorry, but I forgot to take photo's.
The fairing removal is pretty straight forward: Remove the lower torx screws on either side by the deflector wings (lower only), remove the hex screws by the turn signals, remove the speaker grills with a plastic pry bar and remove the torx screw on each side and finally, remove the (4) windshield screws. There are also (2) small CAN Bus connectors that need to be separated for each turn signal. Then the outer fairing comes off. (My manual isn't here yet, so I thought this might be useful)
After that the amp bolts up underneath the radio. The back screws are hard to get to, I used one hand to feed the bolt up from the front and used my other hand from the top to get the bolt started.
The guy who wrote the install sheet should be shot. Connector #299 ( a "Y" power connector purchased separately,PN 69200921) connects to a plugged connector up on the top left (facing front of bike) by the speaker. Connect the "Y" here, plug #299 into one end of the "Y" and the put the plug back into the third end of the "Y". This not mentioned in the instructions.
On another note, make sure you plug CAN Bus loop that you take out of 234A and plug in into the female end of 22. (Hard to see in the diagram)
Finally, 34 and 35 (L and Right looking from the front) plug connectors that are just to the left and right of the radio. Pull each one apart and plug m to f and f to m with each connector. Run the power back to the battery and your done.
When you have the diagram in front of you along with the explanation above, it should be pretty simple.
It was certainly worth the time and effort..., now I need to go in and get the ECM flashed!
Thread Starter
|
Cruiser
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 124
Likes: 9
From: Milwaukee
That seems to be correct. I got the radio flashed and the auto volume seems to have gone away. That sucks.
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I haven't ventured into fairing removal or windshield change on mine yet. Since you were in there....
-Does the outer fairing still have to hook on???
-Does the windshield still use wellnuts???
-Does the outer fairing still have to hook on???
-Does the windshield still use wellnuts???
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Thread Starter
|
Cruiser
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 124
Likes: 9
From: Milwaukee
No wellnuts and no hooks.
