ADM's 2018 114" Fat Bob thread.....
#21
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LoveHammer (10-10-2017)
#22
I do wonder though - it almost seems like a waste to me to do the big bore for only 3 ci more. But I guess if you want HD warranty, then that's the only option for now.
I'd really like that kit, but with drop in 124" jugs. That would be a beast and people currently offer 114" to 124" drop in jugs for these motors with no case boring needed.
I wonder if HD will come out with a set of bigger jugs in the near future....
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cvaria (10-14-2017)
#24
#25
So I had a bit of a catastrophe today!
I went out for some spirited riding, came off some high speed twisties and onto a major road and all of a sudden the bike lost all power. I coasted to somewhere safe and had a look at what was going on. It would start and idle fine, but twisting the throttle got almost no response - wouldn't go past 1700 RPM and the check engine light is on.
I concluded it had gone into some kind of "limp mode" and it was certainly limp - I limped along at about 16mph (which was embarrassing) until I found a decent place to stop and then tried to see what was wrong....
So first off, how do you read the codes on the new bikes? A bit of trial and error and I found out that you hold the trip button in and then turn the bike to "run".
OK - there's a shitload of codes, so I copy them down and a quick Google (thank the gods for smart phones) and I see the following:
P0120c TPS1 range error
P0123c TPS1 high/open
P0220c TPS2 range error
P0222c TPS2 low
P0223h TPS2 high/open
P1510h EFI limited performance mode
P1511c EFI Power management mode
P2135h TPS Voltage correlation mode
My conclusion now is the throttle position sensors are not working. Tried everything i could find about resetting the TPS, but no joy. I have no tools so I can't even pop off the side covers to pull fuses (note to self - stick the correct Allen key for this in your jacket!)
So I give up at this point and call HOG Assist. No issue, and a recovery truck should be with me inside the hour.
But damn. I had a full weekend of riding planned, and the bike is going to have to go to the dealer and who knows when they can look at it. Will they even have parts for a 2018?
Settling down to wait, I keep messing with the bike but can't make it work. After almost an hour, I notice that there is a bit of free play in the connector underneath the bottom of air filter. Mess with that a bit and discover that the two connector halves are pushed together but not properly latched shut. So I latch it correctly and hit the starter again.
BINGO!
The bike is working perfectly now - and the recovery truck turns up at exactly that moment!
I have a little chat with the recovery guy, he gets paid anyway and so he's got no problem.
I ride home. It's dark - and wow the LED headlight is really, really good. It's better than my car xenon headlights. Awesome.
At home, I clear the diagnostic codes and the check engine light goes off. All good. Except somehow I managed to change the instruments all from miles per hour to kilometres. Another quick Google and we are back to normal.
So everything is good now. Bike is fine, I now have beer and my weekend is back on track!
But I'd recommend everyone checks that connector so this doesn't happen to you!
I went out for some spirited riding, came off some high speed twisties and onto a major road and all of a sudden the bike lost all power. I coasted to somewhere safe and had a look at what was going on. It would start and idle fine, but twisting the throttle got almost no response - wouldn't go past 1700 RPM and the check engine light is on.
I concluded it had gone into some kind of "limp mode" and it was certainly limp - I limped along at about 16mph (which was embarrassing) until I found a decent place to stop and then tried to see what was wrong....
So first off, how do you read the codes on the new bikes? A bit of trial and error and I found out that you hold the trip button in and then turn the bike to "run".
OK - there's a shitload of codes, so I copy them down and a quick Google (thank the gods for smart phones) and I see the following:
P0120c TPS1 range error
P0123c TPS1 high/open
P0220c TPS2 range error
P0222c TPS2 low
P0223h TPS2 high/open
P1510h EFI limited performance mode
P1511c EFI Power management mode
P2135h TPS Voltage correlation mode
My conclusion now is the throttle position sensors are not working. Tried everything i could find about resetting the TPS, but no joy. I have no tools so I can't even pop off the side covers to pull fuses (note to self - stick the correct Allen key for this in your jacket!)
So I give up at this point and call HOG Assist. No issue, and a recovery truck should be with me inside the hour.
But damn. I had a full weekend of riding planned, and the bike is going to have to go to the dealer and who knows when they can look at it. Will they even have parts for a 2018?
Settling down to wait, I keep messing with the bike but can't make it work. After almost an hour, I notice that there is a bit of free play in the connector underneath the bottom of air filter. Mess with that a bit and discover that the two connector halves are pushed together but not properly latched shut. So I latch it correctly and hit the starter again.
BINGO!
The bike is working perfectly now - and the recovery truck turns up at exactly that moment!
I have a little chat with the recovery guy, he gets paid anyway and so he's got no problem.
I ride home. It's dark - and wow the LED headlight is really, really good. It's better than my car xenon headlights. Awesome.
At home, I clear the diagnostic codes and the check engine light goes off. All good. Except somehow I managed to change the instruments all from miles per hour to kilometres. Another quick Google and we are back to normal.
So everything is good now. Bike is fine, I now have beer and my weekend is back on track!
But I'd recommend everyone checks that connector so this doesn't happen to you!
The following 6 users liked this post by adm:
cvaria (10-14-2017),
floggedout (01-12-2018),
Gremski (10-14-2017),
Rakthi (10-14-2017),
Thingfish (10-13-2017),
and 1 others liked this post.
#26
#27
#28
Holy cow!! Great save!! I felt that story in my gut honestly as I lost a special planned day of riding last Sunday when my front rim ate a rock on my R9T just minutes into the mountains....luckily I didn't go down but no handy way out of that except a flat bed home. Amazing you sorted it out! Well done.
#29
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Tallahassee, Florida
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Very nice indeed! I would like that a lot.
I do wonder though - it almost seems like a waste to me to do the big bore for only 3 ci more. But I guess if you want HD warranty, then that's the only option for now.
I'd really like that kit, but with drop in 124" jugs. That would be a beast and people currently offer 114" to 124" drop in jugs for these motors with no case boring needed.
I wonder if HD will come out with a set of bigger jugs in the near future....
I do wonder though - it almost seems like a waste to me to do the big bore for only 3 ci more. But I guess if you want HD warranty, then that's the only option for now.
I'd really like that kit, but with drop in 124" jugs. That would be a beast and people currently offer 114" to 124" drop in jugs for these motors with no case boring needed.
I wonder if HD will come out with a set of bigger jugs in the near future....
The following users liked this post:
Thingfish (10-14-2017)
#30
So I had a bit of a catastrophe today!
I went out for some spirited riding, came off some high speed twisties and onto a major road and all of a sudden the bike lost all power. I coasted to somewhere safe and had a look at what was going on. It would start and idle fine, but twisting the throttle got almost no response - wouldn't go past 1700 RPM and the check engine light is on.
I concluded it had gone into some kind of "limp mode" and it was certainly limp - I limped along at about 16mph (which was embarrassing) until I found a decent place to stop and then tried to see what was wrong....
So first off, how do you read the codes on the new bikes? A bit of trial and error and I found out that you hold the trip button in and then turn the bike to "run".
OK - there's a shitload of codes, so I copy them down and a quick Google (thank the gods for smart phones) and I see the following:
P0120c TPS1 range error
P0123c TPS1 high/open
P0220c TPS2 range error
P0222c TPS2 low
P0223h TPS2 high/open
P1510h EFI limited performance mode
P1511c EFI Power management mode
P2135h TPS Voltage correlation mode
My conclusion now is the throttle position sensors are not working. Tried everything i could find about resetting the TPS, but no joy. I have no tools so I can't even pop off the side covers to pull fuses (note to self - stick the correct Allen key for this in your jacket!)
So I give up at this point and call HOG Assist. No issue, and a recovery truck should be with me inside the hour.
But damn. I had a full weekend of riding planned, and the bike is going to have to go to the dealer and who knows when they can look at it. Will they even have parts for a 2018?
Settling down to wait, I keep messing with the bike but can't make it work. After almost an hour, I notice that there is a bit of free play in the connector underneath the bottom of air filter. Mess with that a bit and discover that the two connector halves are pushed together but not properly latched shut. So I latch it correctly and hit the starter again.
BINGO!
The bike is working perfectly now - and the recovery truck turns up at exactly that moment!
I have a little chat with the recovery guy, he gets paid anyway and so he's got no problem.
I ride home. It's dark - and wow the LED headlight is really, really good. It's better than my car xenon headlights. Awesome.
At home, I clear the diagnostic codes and the check engine light goes off. All good. Except somehow I managed to change the instruments all from miles per hour to kilometres. Another quick Google and we are back to normal.
So everything is good now. Bike is fine, I now have beer and my weekend is back on track!
But I'd recommend everyone checks that connector so this doesn't happen to you!
I went out for some spirited riding, came off some high speed twisties and onto a major road and all of a sudden the bike lost all power. I coasted to somewhere safe and had a look at what was going on. It would start and idle fine, but twisting the throttle got almost no response - wouldn't go past 1700 RPM and the check engine light is on.
I concluded it had gone into some kind of "limp mode" and it was certainly limp - I limped along at about 16mph (which was embarrassing) until I found a decent place to stop and then tried to see what was wrong....
So first off, how do you read the codes on the new bikes? A bit of trial and error and I found out that you hold the trip button in and then turn the bike to "run".
OK - there's a shitload of codes, so I copy them down and a quick Google (thank the gods for smart phones) and I see the following:
P0120c TPS1 range error
P0123c TPS1 high/open
P0220c TPS2 range error
P0222c TPS2 low
P0223h TPS2 high/open
P1510h EFI limited performance mode
P1511c EFI Power management mode
P2135h TPS Voltage correlation mode
My conclusion now is the throttle position sensors are not working. Tried everything i could find about resetting the TPS, but no joy. I have no tools so I can't even pop off the side covers to pull fuses (note to self - stick the correct Allen key for this in your jacket!)
So I give up at this point and call HOG Assist. No issue, and a recovery truck should be with me inside the hour.
But damn. I had a full weekend of riding planned, and the bike is going to have to go to the dealer and who knows when they can look at it. Will they even have parts for a 2018?
Settling down to wait, I keep messing with the bike but can't make it work. After almost an hour, I notice that there is a bit of free play in the connector underneath the bottom of air filter. Mess with that a bit and discover that the two connector halves are pushed together but not properly latched shut. So I latch it correctly and hit the starter again.
BINGO!
The bike is working perfectly now - and the recovery truck turns up at exactly that moment!
I have a little chat with the recovery guy, he gets paid anyway and so he's got no problem.
I ride home. It's dark - and wow the LED headlight is really, really good. It's better than my car xenon headlights. Awesome.
At home, I clear the diagnostic codes and the check engine light goes off. All good. Except somehow I managed to change the instruments all from miles per hour to kilometres. Another quick Google and we are back to normal.
So everything is good now. Bike is fine, I now have beer and my weekend is back on track!
But I'd recommend everyone checks that connector so this doesn't happen to you!
Question do new bikes in the states come with 2 years roadside assistance we do here.