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Hi Eddie
Thanks for your inspiration , mate you have worked out how to get our bikes more enjoyable to ride on long trips , that is a great idea you have come up with and so simple well done
I like my Leather Pros bags, I didn't have to re-locate my turn signals. The install was easy, I like how fast I can remove them and that I can use the Harley backrest/rack with them.
Do you remember which torx bit you used to screw in the bolts that came with the bags? And did you need to use the nuts that came with the bag?
Edit: I bought a set of torx bits but none of them fit the LeatherPros bolts, so I just used Loctite 242 and tightened them pretty good with a pair of pliers.
Do you remember which torx bit you used to screw in the bolts that came with the bags? And did you need to use the nuts that came with the bag?
Edit: I bought a set of torx bits but none of them fit the LeatherPros bolts, so I just used Loctite 242 and tightened them pretty good with a pair of pliers.
thats because leather pros bolts use a hex head..
While I find the front brake on my new (to me) 2018 LR powerful enough and with a firm level the rear really is abysmal, which is evidently not a secret with the Softail line up. Main issue, though, is both front and rear make that groaning sound, especially when cold.
I've seen Lyndall Gold + pads mentioned here. You guys running them, how's the initial bite, and did they eliminate the groaning? I know ya can't expect much from the rear brakes on anything, but a little improvement would be welcomed.
Many thanks....
Softer pads may help with the bite on the rotor but switching to a floating rotor would help more. I went with a rear radial mount from Kraus and it helps a little bit using 4 piston caliper.
Sure sounds like drive belt to me - as has been reported by many others. If it is, the belts are coming tight from the factory and the dealers are adjusting them tight. Setting it to the loose end of the spec helps. Be sure to find the tightest spot rotating the rear wheel before adjusting. Also, others have reported improvement after adjusting rear wheel alignment.
Its neglect from where the dealership doesnt do the proper post delivery inspection(PDI)! Mine did this to me around 2K and I could turn the rear adjustment screws with one finger. Dealer should fix for free.
Softer pads may help with the bite on the rotor but switching to a floating rotor would help more. I went with a rear radial mount from Kraus and it helps a little bit using 4 piston caliper.
The Lyndall G+ are probably harder than the factory pads, but still soft enough that they won't eat up the rotor. According to Lyndall anyway.
I find the initial bite to be fine, maybe a tad less than the stock pads, but much better than the stock pads in every other way. The single disc front brake is perfectly adequate for me and how I ride. The rear still sucks, just sucks a bit less, but still usable.
The Lyndall G+ are probably harder than the factory pads, but still soft enough that they won't eat up the rotor. According to Lyndall anyway.
I find the initial bite to be fine, maybe a tad less than the stock pads, but much better than the stock pads in every other way. The single disc front brake is perfectly adequate for me and how I ride. The rear still sucks, just sucks a bit less, but still usable.
The Lyndall Extreme pads I notice has a better bite than the Gold+. I've never eaten up a rotor so we'll see, I'm more interested in stopping.
The extreme pads and the new S&S pedal that have a revised length bell crank solved any issues I had with my rear brakes.
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