What the difference between the Standard M8 118 Softail aircleaner filter and the Ventilator K/N filter?
Road Captain
Joined: Sep 2019
Posts: 689
Likes: 339
From: Dayton OH
Lol Been hot rodding nearly everything I own since from my mini bike forward a good 40 years now.
This is my first Harley but from everything I've done or seen read and learned from those before us. Best Bang for the buck & 1/4 mile acceleration mods;
1. 30/70 gear & pulley change. Granted not for everyone even some performance minded who are more concerned with top speed and high speed cruising. Guys who do a good percentage of their riding above 80 mph. Plus its something most would have to pay a shop to do.
2. Cam change. Most should probably consider the SE 462. Provides a good bump without warranty loss, requiring hi performance valve springs, shortening engine refresh time, dramatically changing your riding rpm etc.
3. 1 & 2 can be skipped but if done should be done first to avoid doing & paying for this twice. Dyno tune.
This was not determined by a marketing department paid to market parts sales. Filters air breathers intakes & pipes become warranted strictly by their performance gains by around 120 HP. Most never get close. Before that its more about looks and sound which is fine just saying. Many older engine builders say if its not bottling it up its better to change that factory filter every year than to let the dirt into your engine from a poorly filtering dry gauze filter element. A properly geared & tuned M8 is dramatically quicker stronger and more responsive than what you left the show room floor with. A two up loaded tour bike is the only thing that might warrant less cam IMO. If you do all three you should be looking at what 100 whp. Thats what 25% more HP than show room stock. You would be in the land of plenty without major bucks tuning quirks fickle problems shortened engine refreshes etc.
This is my first Harley but from everything I've done or seen read and learned from those before us. Best Bang for the buck & 1/4 mile acceleration mods;
1. 30/70 gear & pulley change. Granted not for everyone even some performance minded who are more concerned with top speed and high speed cruising. Guys who do a good percentage of their riding above 80 mph. Plus its something most would have to pay a shop to do.
2. Cam change. Most should probably consider the SE 462. Provides a good bump without warranty loss, requiring hi performance valve springs, shortening engine refresh time, dramatically changing your riding rpm etc.
3. 1 & 2 can be skipped but if done should be done first to avoid doing & paying for this twice. Dyno tune.
This was not determined by a marketing department paid to market parts sales. Filters air breathers intakes & pipes become warranted strictly by their performance gains by around 120 HP. Most never get close. Before that its more about looks and sound which is fine just saying. Many older engine builders say if its not bottling it up its better to change that factory filter every year than to let the dirt into your engine from a poorly filtering dry gauze filter element. A properly geared & tuned M8 is dramatically quicker stronger and more responsive than what you left the show room floor with. A two up loaded tour bike is the only thing that might warrant less cam IMO. If you do all three you should be looking at what 100 whp. Thats what 25% more HP than show room stock. You would be in the land of plenty without major bucks tuning quirks fickle problems shortened engine refreshes etc.
HDF Community Team
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 2,360
Likes: 2,319
From: Wisconsin
Touring bikes are 32/68 stock. Softails use 32/66 tooth pulleys. So the change would be to 30/68 for a softail.
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