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Successfully installed Drag Specialties 4.5” chrome risers. Initially, purchased 8” turn signal extensions and 10” switch wire extensions, but ended up only need one extension for the right switch wires. First, pull back rubber cover from wiring loom on left side in front of gas tank. Trace right switch wire, disconnect, and connect to 10” extension. Connect 10” extension into wiring loom. Replace rubber cover after pushing wires back. Then, remove stock riser bolts, riser, and handlebar clamp. Install new riser, new bolts, and new clamp. Remove T27 bolt and c-clamp from left and right forks to free-up the clutch and brake lines. I let these hang loose. Test all switches and signals. Make sure bars move freely from side to side. This moved my grips 2” higher and 2” back.
H-D extension cables. Only need one from P/N 69200034. New riser. Rubber cover on left side in front of gas tank. Switch wire extension connected to end of stock cable. 10” switch wire extension hanging loose. Ends of switch wire extension (you can see red and white) connections. Stock H-D riser bolts (lower) and new grade 8 hex bolts (upper). Stock handlebar clamp removed. Be sure and cover your tank. New riser. New handlebar clamp. The stock clamp will not fit, so you need an older version with the correct hole alignment. New riser.
Bike only has 1,400 miles and the stock rubber bushings were in good shape, but will replace them with poly bushings if steering starts to get sloppy. Clutch cable and brake line allow movement freely from side to side. But, any taller riser will definitely need longer clutch cable and brake line.
Any reason you used what appears to be grade 8 bolts instead of removing the stud from the stock riser and using it? Before I realized I was going to need wire extensions I pulled the bars and stock risers, R & R the stud to the new riser but ended up putting it back together stock because I didn't have wiring extensions. To access the connectors in front of the tank did you find it necessary to remove the tank and bib? Hope not since that's just extra work hopefully not needed. Thanks.
Grade 8 bolts are stronger. I did not remove gas tank. To access the wiring connections, turn bars to the right, pull back the rubber cover, and gently fish the wiring out. Then, follow the wiring from the bars to the connector. Unplug at the connector and add any extension.
Grade 8 bolts are stronger. I did not remove gas tank. To access the wiring connections, turn bars to the right, pull back the rubber cover, and gently fish the wiring out. Then, follow the wiring from the bars to the connector. Unplug at the connector and add any extension.
Did most of that but in trying to fish out the wiring from the boot, one of the connectors became disconnected. I still couldn't see the connector or access it. I had to take the tank bolts out, prop up the front with a 3-4'" piece of wood, and eventually pulled the boot completely out. I then removed the stock riser, installed the pull-back ones. IF I didn't reinstall the boot I could probably not need any extensions BUT that would be sloppy so I'll try to get the boot back on after I get some extensions. I figure 4-6" extensions will be needed for the 3 wire groups.
I'm a bit confused by the terms you used to refer to the wires. Mine are routed internal to the bars and there is one for the left switches including the turn signals, one for the right same set up and one a 2 wire for the TBW I presume. The switch wires have 2 connectors each but one of them, not sure which one at this time appeared to not have been connected. At least not to the connector block. It does go to the right side of the bar. It's a square connector with a black and white wire.
Going by the dealer today to see what they have and will take the part number you referenced.
Did most of that but in trying to fish out the wiring from the boot, one of the connectors became disconnected. I still couldn't see the connector or access it. I had to take the tank bolts out, prop up the front with a 3-4'" piece of wood, and eventually pulled the boot completely out. I then removed the stock riser, installed the pull-back ones. IF I didn't reinstall the boot I could probably not need any extensions BUT that would be sloppy so I'll try to get the boot back on after I get some extensions. I figure 4-6" extensions will be needed for the 3 wire groups.
I'm a bit confused by the terms you used to refer to the wires. Mine are routed internal to the bars and there is one for the left switches including the turn signals, one for the right same set up and one a 2 wire for the TBW I presume. The switch wires have 2 connectors each but one of them, not sure which one at this time appeared to not have been connected. At least not to the connector block. It does go to the right side of the bar. It's a square connector with a black and white wire.
Going by the dealer today to see what they have and will take the part number you referenced.
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Heritage 4.5” Riser Install
