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Does anyone have experience with running withing thru a one-pc T-bar, versus 2 pc riser and separate bar? I'm debating which to go with, for my '23 Heritage. Settled on Dominator industries though, gotta figure out rise still.
I though the 2 pc riser and bar would little easier for wiring sake, and would leave me options later to swap to a different riser or bar instead of the 1pc. I figured between pulling the tank, wiring, clutch/brake lines, itll give me a project over the winter.
All that said, I'm still not dead-set on doing them myself. Anyone that had a shop change bars, what'd they ask for in labor hours? Just curious so I can be a little informed before asking the places around me.
dominator offers pre-wired don't they? I will say the bar and riser setup is easier to wire, the one piece t-bar setup I have from biltwell was easy on the clutch side. I was able to pull the wires through without de-pinning the connectors. The throttle side was a different story, there's more wiring to pull through on the TBW bikes so I wound up having to de-pin the connectors on that side but otherwise it wasn't too bad. The transition from the bar to the riser on the one piece however is not as smooth and can have some edges from the welding vs the smooth opening of the bars. I helped a friend pull wires through the ODI bars and it was effortless and the install was smooth sailing with OG risers.
Yeah they do have pre-wires, and an all-in one that comes with a new brake line (maybe clutch too, it wasnt in the pic). I was just thinking about weather I'm more capable to de-pin the factory wiring or just cut and splice using the pre-wireds.
I did talk to a local shop, 5-6 hours labor, so i'll be planning on doing this myself after all
I've done both, in my experience 2 pc setups are overall better. They're easier to wire, and if you need to change your bar/riser for whatever reason you can get away with just swapping one or the other, The only real downside to a 2pc setup is getting the damn bar even and straight when you're tightening down. I often make several adjustments before I end up getting it at about 98% lol.
I would suggest not paying the absurd upcharge for pre-wired bars. If you get an electrician's snake/wire whatever you want to call it, use electrical tape to wrap the **** out of the wires, then tape them to the snake and grease them up real good you should have very little trouble getting the wires through. My last setup I did a 2pc this way and it took maybe 5min from start to finish on each side. Going to be doing another set of bars soon and will be using the same method.
The only time I'd suggest a 1pc bar is when you are already certain of the style/comfort, and have no intentions of changing things unless necessary due to something like damage.
Back in the early 2000's T bars were the thing, wiring them is a PITA. 90 degree bends and pulling wires through is no fun, it can be done with lube and lots of patience. 1/2" forward, 1/4" back and repeat until you get through. Good luck.
I forgot i wanted to ask 1 other thing, riser bushings. My bikes still newer, 23 under 3k miles. should I be changing to urethan bushings? or is that overkill on a newer bike?
I added 2" extensions like a month back to give me a better idea on height. Didnt bother with bushings sinced those were just a cheap temporary deal.
I forgot i wanted to ask 1 other thing, riser bushings. My bikes still newer, 23 under 3k miles. should I be changing to urethan bushings? or is that overkill on a newer bike?
I added 2" extensions like a month back to give me a better idea on height. Didnt bother with bushings sinced those were just a cheap temporary deal.
At minimum change to quality urethane bushings. The OEM ones are way too flimsy and as you add leverage with taller bars it becomes more apparent. I'm running solid riser bushings on my setup and have zero complaints. The new M8s are pretty smooth running engines.
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1 piece T-bars vs 2 pc riser+t-bar---Wiring
