the turn signal relocation looks awesome! how did you get them so close to the forks. i've browsed that thread before but never could seem to figure out exactly how to move the signals and get them as close as you have them. i want to do the exact same thing.

 

Thanks for reminding me! I meant to link back to that post. I used this one.. some of the pics are missing but youll get the idea:
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/2666240-post344.html


Use a drill to enlarge this hole:


and mount it to the tripple tree clamp bolt (fork clamp bolt?). Done deal. You already have one of these on the clutch side blinker mount of your bike - youll need 1 more. Can be had for pennies or bought new at your dealer for about 12$. I also used a dremel to make the "ear" alittle thinner so it wouldnt interfere with the clamp... Mine are sucked up alittle closer because I pinched this little ear in the clamp - though admittedly that might not be the best idea even with removing some material to make it thinner. Have rode a couple hundred miles since but Im watching it close.

Will end up painting the little part and adding a small rubber boot to clean it all up. Its mounted Like so:




Might end up thinning it abit more and using a thin rubber flat washer to create a crush zone. The safer bet is to put it on the outside of the clamp im sure...



Heres the part name and and number:




Here is the post for highlighting the voltage regulator. Easy stuff and quick too. Free mod
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/2612277-post203.html

 

Yeah I haven't seen that one before. Only the one that puts it under the handle bar. But that one looks way better and less involved than a whole tank swap.

 

much... I looked into the tank swap when moving my ignition switch and its just too expensive of a conversion for me to justify with something as minor as "I dont like where the ignition switch and speedo are located" lol ... thats serious money that can be spent on serious things! XD


Some people dont like the method above but I think its perfect. Little or no mounting is visible... viewing angle is perfect for me etc etc Will try to work out this method possibly this weekend...

Need to also move my rear blinkers as I have some throw over bags waiting to be used...

 

I've been wanting to play with this every since I got my new pipes. Being drag pipes they are alittle mushy in the lower RPM registers so I wanted to add abit of back pressure to give me some torque back. So I made some old school "lolipop" baffles.... People been doing this for years but WOW what a difference!!

Introducing Spanky McHotrod's Tunable Baffle Kit


Parts:
2x 1/4" eye bolts
2x 3/8"x3/4" carriage bolts
2x 3/8" nuts
4x 1/4" nuts
2x lock washers
2x 1" fender washer
2x 1 1/4" fender washer
2x 1 1/2" fender washer
-------------------------------
Total: ~3$ or so at Lowes

This gives 3 choices of baffle sizes. Heres an assembled baffle using the 1 1/4" washer



To install these you can drill a hole ~1" from the end of your muffler/header and use 2 1/4" nuts and a lock washer to secure. I chose to reuse the screw hole for the stock baffles... I just pushed the stock baffle back just enough to expose the hole. Once mounted you can open or close it as much as you wish to get the sound and power curve your looking for then tighten it down to keep it in place. Make sure to mount the baffle so that the nut is facing out so if you have the need or want you can reach in and change out the washer for a different size... keeps ya from having to take everything apart again.

For Freedom Performance Admendment or V&H Big Shot pipes you must predrill your heat shields and reassymble before mounting the baffle... I was lazy and just cut slots in the heat shields to accept the studs/nuts. Its unseen on the back side of the pipe.

The result for me was noticed as soon as I started my bike. The sound is more defined but quietens out a good bit at a cruise. Otherwise I wouldnt say it really quietened them down any. The difference in performance/torque is AMAZING!!! Bike has a completely different attitude. All my decell pop is gone too. Best 3$ mod ever!!

If you have drag style pipes (V&H Big SHots and Freedom Performance Admendments especially!) I would highly reccomend this mod! I also must mention that the cool folks over at DK Customs sells premade baffles like these for a good price if your not the DIY type

 

Been meaning to play with the baffle sizes and position but work has been in the way... Now that I've put more miles on it... Im just as happy really ..

With the 1 1/4" baffle nearly 100% closed, torque in the low rpm registers is terrific (basically day to day driving ranges). Acceleration from a stop is smooth and effortless... Nice defined, low growl at idle that quietens to a purr at cruise. But when u kick it, the beast grows teeth and shows its nasty side!!! I can even cruise comfortably at 45-50mph in 6th gear with no pinging... sure it lugs abit but will torque right back up to 65 with the flick of the wrist.

Everything is a trade off of coarse.. and this nice peek of power in the lower rpm registers also means that higher ranges seem a bit more mushy.. completely acceptable for me as I (and most of us I would think) spend most of my time in the low-middle range of the spectrum.

I havnt got to play with it but I assume that if I open the baffle up I will push the power curve back toward the higher end of the spectrum by at least some measure. So it should be easy to dial in exactly your taste with a little riding and tweaking.

 

Been contemplating this one for a while myself.
How hard was it to get the trim ring of the gauge without damaging it?
How much did you have to trim from the inside, and did you have to trim the compartment the gauge sat in to accommodate the switch?
What switch did you use?
And last question, I promise....(for now ) How much of a PITA was it to extend the wiring to reach?

Sorry for all the questions, but alot of those have been floating around my head as I considered whether that idea would work....thanks for proving it for me!

 

The switch is from a softail I think.. others use it too. Harley part number 71501-93 or 71313-96. Ebay will fix ya up for around 20$

Heres one from DK:
https://www.denniskirk.com/H20242.sk...utm_medium=cse

It wasnt hard to get the trim ring off once I figured out how lol.. I ended up denting mine just abit 1st though..

1st off.. your gonna completely destroy the gauge. No saving it. But the internals can be used so that your fuel light will still work. (ive yet to do this).

First cut the housing with a dremel close to the ring... remove the guts from the gauge and save for later. Just behind the trim ring there is a rubber grommet... remove and save it for the switch install. The put the trim ring in the oven for about 20min or so @ 250-300F. The glue should loosen up and let ya lift it right off.

Once the ring is loose and cool you can trim it... its not alot. I couldnt give you a measure I just sat with the switch, ring and dremel and took off little bits at a time until it fit over the **** of the switch. The round metal base of the **** sits below the ring in my install.

Then just collar the switch with the rubber grommet you saved from the gauge and mount exactly as jmpancoast did:

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-...witch-mod.html

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-...s-02-09-a.html


No triming anywhere else....


For the wiring... Remove the grommets on each side of the neck and remove the plastic access cover thats just under the neck. Just above the front engine cylinder. Behind this cover is the ignition switch harness... if you look from the right side of the bike youll see the harness plugged up to the switch. I was able to use a long flat blade screwdriver to release the tabs on the ignition plug and disconnect the switch without removing it. Once disconnected, route the harness through the left side of the neck and replace the grommets and access cover. The harness is long enough to reach up and under the dash... u just have to extend it abit more to reach the switch. Just a simple pigtail made with spade connectors works just fine.

Its a very easy mod... not counting taking apart the fuel gauge and triming the ring Id say I was done in maybe 2 hours tops. Probably less.


The finishing touch to this mod is to remove the unnecessary parts of the fuel gauge internals and put them in something small enough to fit under the switch (plenty of room). Once hooked back up the fuel light on the speedo should function as its suppose to

 

Thanks a ton! That pretty much answered my questions.
I've thought of doing this many times and have had the tank apart looking at it, one of the hurdles was getting that trim ring off.
I've ditched my speedo and don't have the idiot lights any more, so I also thought about how to put a light on the dash. I'll still have to play aroubd with that idea more. Thanks for all the help! This is gonna be the last thing I need to do to realy clean up my new front end (my nacelle hits the switch where it is and bends the key or shuts off the bike if I turn too far right...argh!)
Great job on yours, and thanks again!

 

dude you so wont regret it.. I love my FXD but that neck switch is a serious *** sore! Cheap too... speciallyif you wreck your current guage

Good luck! Give a shout if you need anything else