Audio System FAQ's
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 3,949
Likes: 150
From: South of Mordor
I want to verify that what i read in the first post and what I am doing are correct.
I have an after market head unit (I have on hand from a car I used to own) that I am installing into an aftermarket batwing (just got new, has four holes for speakers, two per side) with four used stock HD 5.25" speakers (I know there not good, but they were free and work for starts). The speakers are 2ohms input and the head unit is 4ohms output, If I run two speakers in series on each side then they would equal the 4ohm output from the radio, correct?
I have an after market head unit (I have on hand from a car I used to own) that I am installing into an aftermarket batwing (just got new, has four holes for speakers, two per side) with four used stock HD 5.25" speakers (I know there not good, but they were free and work for starts). The speakers are 2ohms input and the head unit is 4ohms output, If I run two speakers in series on each side then they would equal the 4ohm output from the radio, correct?
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 14,670
Likes: 139
From: East of the Sun, West of the Moon
I want to verify that what i read in the first post and what I am doing are correct.
I have an after market head unit (I have on hand from a car I used to own) that I am installing into an aftermarket batwing (just got new, has four holes for speakers, two per side) with four used stock HD 5.25" speakers (I know there not good, but they were free and work for starts). The speakers are 2ohms input and the head unit is 4ohms output, If I run two speakers in series on each side then they would equal the 4ohm output from the radio, correct?
I have an after market head unit (I have on hand from a car I used to own) that I am installing into an aftermarket batwing (just got new, has four holes for speakers, two per side) with four used stock HD 5.25" speakers (I know there not good, but they were free and work for starts). The speakers are 2ohms input and the head unit is 4ohms output, If I run two speakers in series on each side then they would equal the 4ohm output from the radio, correct?
Stage I
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
From: Florida
Need help with 2014 street glide amp installed
Have 2014 and looking to put a amp in the bike do they make a wire harness to plug and play don't want to cut and splice wires I have Rockford fosgate amp I need the info I can get
2nd Gear
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
From: Florida
AMP Connections
I have this AMP that was apparently on my bike when I bought it used and not connected. anyone know how to correctly wire it up. I have not seen one before with the input as "+" only. Also not 100% sure what the "com" port is for...
Any help would be greatly appreciated!!
Also if anyone knows how to get in touch with the guys at Street Star Designs that would be helpful too.
Thanks!
Any help would be greatly appreciated!!
Also if anyone knows how to get in touch with the guys at Street Star Designs that would be helpful too.
Thanks!
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 14,670
Likes: 139
From: East of the Sun, West of the Moon
Chris. I would venture to say the reason it wasn't hooked up is because it utilizes what's called a floating ground (com - common ground) between left and right inputs and the HD system does not work like that. It's separate + and - for each speaker and they're isolated from each other.
So in other words;
left + from radio to amp input LT+
right + from radio to amp input RT+
then either left or right - from radio to amp input COM
problem is, no head unit that puts out more than 2 or 3 watts per channel is going to use a common ground anymore. They did away with that years ago when power output of head units started climbing.
My suggestion is toss it and get you something you know will work before you wind up destroying your head unit.
On the cheap, you can grab something like and it will work perfectly fine for you and sounds pretty decent too. I've used them a few times.
So in other words;
left + from radio to amp input LT+
right + from radio to amp input RT+
then either left or right - from radio to amp input COM
problem is, no head unit that puts out more than 2 or 3 watts per channel is going to use a common ground anymore. They did away with that years ago when power output of head units started climbing.
My suggestion is toss it and get you something you know will work before you wind up destroying your head unit.
On the cheap, you can grab something like and it will work perfectly fine for you and sounds pretty decent too. I've used them a few times.
2nd Gear
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
From: Florida
Chris. I would venture to say the reason it wasn't hooked up is because it utilizes what's called a floating ground (com - common ground) between left and right inputs and the HD system does not work like that. It's separate + and - for each speaker and they're isolated from each other.
So in other words;
left + from radio to amp input LT+
right + from radio to amp input RT+
then either left or right - from radio to amp input COM
problem is, no head unit that puts out more than 2 or 3 watts per channel is going to use a common ground anymore. They did away with that years ago when power output of head units started climbing.
My suggestion is toss it and get you something you know will work before you wind up destroying your head unit.
On the cheap, you can grab something like this and it will work perfectly fine for you and sounds pretty decent too. I've used them a few times.
So in other words;
left + from radio to amp input LT+
right + from radio to amp input RT+
then either left or right - from radio to amp input COM
problem is, no head unit that puts out more than 2 or 3 watts per channel is going to use a common ground anymore. They did away with that years ago when power output of head units started climbing.
My suggestion is toss it and get you something you know will work before you wind up destroying your head unit.
On the cheap, you can grab something like this and it will work perfectly fine for you and sounds pretty decent too. I've used them a few times.
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Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 3,063
Likes: 8
From: pg county md
Ok not sure if I post this here so if I need to move it et me know riding a 12 FLTRU with stock head unit and boom amp with boom speakers on the fairing and tour pack. Looking to upgrade fairing and tourpack and possibly better amp and HU. Budget is around 1K and I'm planning on doing the work myself, should like to retain handle bar controls and my goal is to do this once only. I am not DIW super savvy and would like to not have to splice wires but can follow instructions so I'll take all the suggestions I can get
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 14,670
Likes: 139
From: East of the Sun, West of the Moon
Ok not sure if I post this here so if I need to move it et me know riding a 12 FLTRU with stock head unit and boom amp with boom speakers on the fairing and tour pack. Looking to upgrade fairing and tourpack and possibly better amp and HU. Budget is around 1K and I'm planning on doing the work myself, should like to retain handle bar controls and my goal is to do this once only. I am not DIW super savvy and would like to not have to splice wires but can follow instructions so I'll take all the suggestions I can get
My suggestion for front and rear speakers is the Infinity Kappa 62.11i.
Amazon.com: Infinity Kappa 62.11I 150W 6.5-Inch 2-Way Kappa Series Coaxial Speakers: Car Electronics
You will need a set of v-twin adapter rings for the rear pods - http://www.vtwinaudio.com/store/prod...r-adapter-kit/
You will need a set of speaker adapter rings for the fairing as well.
http://www.vtwinaudio.com/store/prod...apter-rings-2/