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you shouldn't be reading OL. you should be reading some resistance across the two ends of that wire.
disconnect your amp completely and take it out of the picture. replace your fuse. if it blows immediately then your main + wire is grounded out somewhere.
Not to be a wise azz but the - wire coming from the battery is hooked up to the GND terminal on the amp correct?
The only way that you can keep blowing fuses is if the + is shorting on the frame or the + - are touching somewhere since it is doubtful that 2 different amps are both bad.
I would just pull the power and ground line back out and recheck them then pull them or new lines all over again.
Not taken that way at all. I'm open to all suggestions, even if I've already checked it (several times). I'm going to recheck everything again.
I thought I had a bad amp because I ran it for a season with high level inputs (speakers wires from factory head unit direct into amp) with no problems. Upgraded to Alpine Head Unit and amp wouldn't power on. I had to connect the remote wire from the head unit to the amp and it works perfect. Wasn't sure if you tried powering the amp with not only the power wires, but also connected the remote line from the head unit? If your not familiar with remote wires, the head unit supplies a low amount of power signal to the amp to tell the amp to power on. That way when your head unit is off, your amp is off as well.
I'm willing to try anything at this point.
Originally Posted by Gannicus
Dam Puggy I'd jump in but if you have NUTZ and Little Mike on the phone it doesn't get any better than that! No worries brother! They will get it figured out.
Like I said, I'm going to start over this morning and retest everything.
I repair electronic semiconductor machines/equipment for a living so I'm very familiar with finding shorts/faults. With 27 years in the industry doing this, I'm comfortable doing it. I've got a riding partner/coworker that is the same, and this is stumping us both. lol (just thought I'd give yall a little bit of my background experience). I'll keep ya updated throughout the day.
you shouldn't be reading OL. you should be reading some resistance across the two ends of that wire.
disconnect your amp completely and take it out of the picture. replace your fuse. if it blows immediately then your main + wire is grounded out somewhere.
Already tried that and it doesn't short, only when the ground is hooked up to the battery. When I said OL when checking, I was referencing checking the wire to the chassis with both ends disconnected.
On my way out to an Eagle Scout Court of Honor but my next suggestion would be the same as Nutz. Sounds like the power is dumping to a a ground somewhere between the fuse and the amp. The wire itself may even still have continuity. Since the fuse has protected it from clearing the fault by burning it clear. Or pull new leads. What gauge wire are you using?
Already tried that and it doesn't short, only when the ground is hooked up to the battery. When I said OL when checking, I was referencing checking the wire to the chassis with both ends disconnected.
Thanks for all the help guys. I finally got back to it this evening and decided to just pull new wires. When I pulled the + lead wire, I found a spot that the insulation was split somehow. When I was hooking it up before and twisting the excess wire in beside the battery, it was opening up when kinked and shorting to the frame. When unhooked from the battery, it was almost impossible to see. Anyway, got it straight now and amp is working great.
BTW, I'll have a Kicker 100W 2 channel amp for sale...........I verified it works after finding the install problem. I went ahead and used the RF amp.
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