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Wow! Those bad boys (Hats) are anywhere from $700-800 bucks! Great set up but I'm not sure the Moto 600.4 is the best amp for those speakers. Both speakers are power hungry. The Moto 600.4 is an excellent amp used with the right speakers. Clean power with plenty clarity. If you want to use that amp to power your system, My suggestion would be to get another 600.4 and bridge both amps. One to the Moto 602's and one to the Hats. It's a rabbit hole man! At the end of the day you're still only looking at 4 speakers. Most guys on this forum will tell you 4 speakers is not enough LOL!! Good luck with your set up bro. If you need any help. We'll be here.
Thanks Gann
Plenty of room for more speakers and amps. But for a few months I am not going to be able to allocate more funds for the tunes.
I have already told her we may have to go to Galveston this year instead of Cabo and that went over like a turd in the punch bowl
Plenty of room for more speakers and amps. But for a few months I am not going to be able to allocate more funds for the tunes.
I have already told her we may have to go to Galveston this year instead of Cabo and that went over like a turd in the punch bowl
Joe I would see how things sound with one then go from there. As Gann said the 602's like power but for rear fill I wouldn't focus quite so much on that as your front stage. With the Sony if it has a 60hz option I would start there for xover. Leave amp full pass and let the deck filter the low freq. If the Hat seem to lack the volume at the 150 per side the arc provides then look into bridging and adding a second amp. Just don't use the gain as volume and set it right. The worst thing if you may lack power to push the speaker is to run it into distortion trying to gain the volume. Most don't realize that you can near double an amps output in clipping. It will be audible but you need the ear for that.
Gann, Slye, something I found perplexing in the L6SE Midbass specs is the way they list power handling. I doesn't mention Continuous Power Handling w/crossover. The difference in continuous and peak (no crossover) is double. So I'm wondering if peak power handling w/crossover is half, ~112 watts. Or is the (w/crossover) include the power needed to power the tweeter? These specs would be nice to know when choosing an amp.
Continuous Power Handling (Pnom Rated Power Input No crossover) (85 watts)
Peak Power Handling (Pmax Rated Power Input No Crossover) (170 watts)
Gann, Slye, something I found perplexing in the L6SE Midbass specs is the way they list power handling. I doesn't mention Continuous Power Handling w/crossover. The difference in continuous and peak (no crossover) is double. So I'm wondering if peak power handling w/crossover is half, ~112 watts. Or is the (w/crossover) include the power needed to power the tweeter? These specs would be nice to know when choosing an amp.
Continuous Power Handling (Pnom Rated Power Input No crossover) (85 watts)
Peak Power Handling (Pmax Rated Power Input No Crossover) (170 watts)
Pmax w/ Crossover (225 watts)
Bertk,
I asked Scott (the owner and head designer) the same thing and sent him a copy of the Moto 600.4 spec sheet. I also asked why BT was rating their 7.1 Pros which is the HAT L6V2 mid bass with the Imagine tweeter and a 2.2 microfarad cross over cap at 170W RMS. He said that setup limits what the speaker can see and try and reproduce. It's non adjustable, but keeps the speaker from getting beat up. He also said that my setup will handle the 150 Watts RMS with no issues as long as I use his 2-way passive crossovers. When I questioned him on this, he put his guarantee in writing
I asked Scott (the owner and head designer) the same thing and sent him a copy of the Moto 600.4 spec sheet. I also asked why BT was rating their 7.1 Pros which is the HAT L6V2 mid bass with the Imagine tweeter and a 2.2 microfarad cross over cap at 170W RMS. He said that setup limits what the speaker can see and try and reproduce. It's non adjustable, but keeps the speaker from getting beat up. He also said that my setup will handle the 150 Watts RMS with no issues as long as I use his 2-way passive crossovers. When I questioned him on this, he put his guarantee in writing
Thanks for explaining the CVOJOE. Out of curiosity, did Scott mention what the continuous RMS for the L6SE with xover and tweeter was?
Thanks for explaining the CVOJOE. Out of curiosity, did Scott mention what the continuous RMS for the L6SE with xover and tweeter was?
Ya know Bertk, I tried to naill him down on that and get the answer
specifically, But he started talking off into areas that I just flat don't understand.
What I took from it was that with Receivers and amps that produce really clean sound without distortion, the speakers will handle a lot of wattage and produce great sound.
What I finally got him to say was don't put a cheap head unit and amplifier with these speakers And if you do use the stated output levels
That's the main reason I decided to go ahead and change out my head unit for a Sony with this install.
Ya know Bertk, I tried to naill him down on that and get the answer
specifically, But he started talking off into areas that I just flat don't understand.
What I took from it was that with Receivers and amps that produce really clean sound without distortion, the speakers will handle a lot of wattage and produce great sound.
What I finally got him to say was don't put a cheap head unit and amplifier with these speakers And if you do use the stated output levels
That's the main reason I decided to go ahead and change out my head unit for a Sony with this install.
Yeah after looking through the HAT Forum 150 watts may be conservative but definitely worth a try. Some are saying 200-300 watts per channel. I would say Gann was spot on with his recommendation.
Yeah after looking through the HAT Forum 150 watts may be conservative but definitely worth a try. Some are saying 200-300 watts per channel. I would say Gann was spot on with his recommendation.
You may want to create a new thread on you build.
Thanks guy's,
I am going to start with what I have and then add another amp if it needs it.
I will start another thread for the build...sorry about hi-jacking this thread
Hey guys, just adding to the 602 Review on this thread, just did a nice setup that turned out pretty good with the 602s. 2016 RGU, Hertz Mille in fairing, 602s in lowers (yes liquid cooled and also yes, I found a way with stock lowers) and tour pack pods paired with a BT4180 & levelers, stock head unit. The levelers allowed for fine tuning to get the balance between the motos and mille. Those 602s really bump with 2 pairs going at it.
Happy with the turn out and have a happy customer to boot!
So my original plan with 602s in the lowers and uppers with a pn4.1000d pushing them may not come to fruition. Phat Performance let me down on a sweet deal on the second pair (took my money two weeks ago and now says they can't get them, still no refund yet). So i'm thinking of going with with just the fairing set and bridging the pn4.1000. Is that two much power for the 602s? Ive heard they like power, but 250 per sounds like a lot for the 602s. I don't want to blow them up. I'm pretty new to this but thanks to Gann, Haze, awave. LL247 and many more I think i am well on my way to a good setup.
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