Dynamat Sharknose Install - Rushmore
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Road Warrior
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 1,690
Likes: 246
From: Lakeville, MN
Dynamat Sharknose Install - Rushmore
Since I recently documented the batwing install of dynamat, I figured I would share the same experience on a fellow forum member's Rushmore Road Glide...the process, the stencils, the challenges. Like I did with the batwing, I found the straight lines in the shark nose to build stencils. Laid 3-4 layers of masking tape on each stencil, before removing the tape stencils, I outlined the edges so I had a template to place the dynamat.
One important item to know is that you absolutely cannot cover this fairing with one 18x32 sheet of dynamat, which appears to be the easily attainable size. I used a 2x4 sheet and have very little left, even after optimizing the space as best I could. Repeat. You'll need a 2x4 or two smaller sheets of dynamat to cover a RG fairing.
I cut one section of dynamat at a time. Started with the middle piece as it was the easiest to lay down and line up, then just worked my way up the sides making sure I kept my outlines. As for the application...the stencils were much easier to make than on a batwing. Putting the mat ON the batwing was significantly more difficult. Make sure you have a tennis ball to slide over the material. If you're reading this about to attempt the process, you already know the sides of this fairing has a pretty significant curve and the material does not voluntarily stick in the perfect location. Be patient and make sure if you are using the stencils that you first outline where they go so you have that template when it comes to stickin' time.
I will be giving Pete the stencils as he said he would cut out copies and send them out to anyone interested. Hopefully this can save someone some time. Cheers.
One important item to know is that you absolutely cannot cover this fairing with one 18x32 sheet of dynamat, which appears to be the easily attainable size. I used a 2x4 sheet and have very little left, even after optimizing the space as best I could. Repeat. You'll need a 2x4 or two smaller sheets of dynamat to cover a RG fairing.
I cut one section of dynamat at a time. Started with the middle piece as it was the easiest to lay down and line up, then just worked my way up the sides making sure I kept my outlines. As for the application...the stencils were much easier to make than on a batwing. Putting the mat ON the batwing was significantly more difficult. Make sure you have a tennis ball to slide over the material. If you're reading this about to attempt the process, you already know the sides of this fairing has a pretty significant curve and the material does not voluntarily stick in the perfect location. Be patient and make sure if you are using the stencils that you first outline where they go so you have that template when it comes to stickin' time.
I will be giving Pete the stencils as he said he would cut out copies and send them out to anyone interested. Hopefully this can save someone some time. Cheers.
Tourer
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 474
Likes: 34
From: Minnesota
They will be getting done also. I just don't have the bike back from the engine shop yet.
Pete
Tourer
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 474
Likes: 34
From: Minnesota
Chris,
That look killer, thanks again.
Also, I you are in need of a set of stencils please pm me and I will get some made later this week and out.
I also do still have about 5 more sheets of 2x4 Dynamat that I could cut out and send directly. I think I have about $40 into each sheet so I would sell shipped for $50.
Not looking to profit of any of this only cover my costs.
Thanks guys
That look killer, thanks again.
Also, I you are in need of a set of stencils please pm me and I will get some made later this week and out.
I also do still have about 5 more sheets of 2x4 Dynamat that I could cut out and send directly. I think I have about $40 into each sheet so I would sell shipped for $50.
Not looking to profit of any of this only cover my costs.
Thanks guys
Since I recently documented the batwing install of dynamat, I figured I would share the same experience on a fellow forum member's Rushmore Road Glide...the process, the stencils, the challenges. Like I did with the batwing, I found the straight lines in the shark nose to build stencils. Laid 3-4 layers of masking tape on each stencil, before removing the tape stencils, I outlined the edges so I had a template to place the dynamat.
One important item to know is that you absolutely cannot cover this fairing with one 18x32 sheet of dynamat, which appears to be the easily attainable size. I used a 2x4 sheet and have very little left, even after optimizing the space as best I could. Repeat. You'll need a 2x4 or two smaller sheets of dynamat to cover a RG fairing.
I cut one section of dynamat at a time. Started with the middle piece as it was the easiest to lay down and line up, then just worked my way up the sides making sure I kept my outlines. As for the application...the stencils were much easier to make than on a batwing. Putting the mat ON the batwing was significantly more difficult. Make sure you have a tennis ball to slide over the material. If you're reading this about to attempt the process, you already know the sides of this fairing has a pretty significant curve and the material does not voluntarily stick in the perfect location. Be patient and make sure if you are using the stencils that you first outline where they go so you have that template when it comes to stickin' time.
I will be giving Pete the stencils as he said he would cut out copies and send them out to anyone interested. Hopefully this can save someone some time. Cheers.
One important item to know is that you absolutely cannot cover this fairing with one 18x32 sheet of dynamat, which appears to be the easily attainable size. I used a 2x4 sheet and have very little left, even after optimizing the space as best I could. Repeat. You'll need a 2x4 or two smaller sheets of dynamat to cover a RG fairing.
I cut one section of dynamat at a time. Started with the middle piece as it was the easiest to lay down and line up, then just worked my way up the sides making sure I kept my outlines. As for the application...the stencils were much easier to make than on a batwing. Putting the mat ON the batwing was significantly more difficult. Make sure you have a tennis ball to slide over the material. If you're reading this about to attempt the process, you already know the sides of this fairing has a pretty significant curve and the material does not voluntarily stick in the perfect location. Be patient and make sure if you are using the stencils that you first outline where they go so you have that template when it comes to stickin' time.
I will be giving Pete the stencils as he said he would cut out copies and send them out to anyone interested. Hopefully this can save someone some time. Cheers.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 2,449
Likes: 495
From: Port Arthur, Texas
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 2,449
Likes: 495
From: Port Arthur, Texas
IMO the pods alone do a good enough job that I felt no need to recover the entire pods anymore.
You can't fit on the fairing AND on the pods, you get a gap between the dash and the fairing. It's a tight fit with pods, vents, glove boxes in there anything more than an 1/8" makes fitment not so good and leaves those gaps that drive you crazy.
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Road Warrior
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,286
Likes: 17
From: Omaha
I think I made a mistake by going with DamplIfier rather than Dynamat. The Damplifier Is so stiff it makes it a pia to work with. I started mine last weekend but had to walk away several times to keep from throwing in the towel. I hope to get it done this weekend. BTW i sure appreciate the stencils because they have helped to lower the frustration. SF
