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The dealers have been neutered regarding the creative flashes that flatten the bass curve so DSP or BT355. No need for any flash if u go that route as the only reason u would need a flash would be to enable the fade function.
amp. A lot more power than the JL. The Kappa's will have to be mounted inside the stock speaker pods and require some mods. Here's a video that will help guide you.
Thank you both for the replies and suggestions. I put in an order with Crutchfield today but changed it up a bit. Ended up with the JL amp but went with Polk MM651 speakers for the fairing. I wasn't comfortable splitting and modifying the stock pods in case I ever waned to go back to stock for a sale or trade in. I'm holding off for now on the lower fairing speakers depending on what everything sounds like with just the amp and two Polks. Will be placing an order for the BT355 per Tailwind's suggestion. Thanks again for the input. I look forward to getting all of this wired up and sounding good over the next few weeks. Btw, after a $100 gift card I had laying around for Crutchfield, the amp, speaks, and wiring set me back $185. I'm looking good for my budget for now.
Update. Thursday of this week installed the amp, LL, and MM651 in the fairing. I decided to use the old school set the gains by ear. It was terrible. My ears aren't what they used to be. Took the fairing off and broke out the Fluke. After speaking with JL tech support, it was decided to shoot for 13 volts on the outputs. Right was 15 and left was 19. I went back to the BT355 and made adjustments to the gains (only got around 1 V from each output after adjustments). Then I moved to the amp and got the outputs set to 13V. Boy, what a difference. The muddy lows and shrill highs went away.
One thing I found was during my ride after setting voltages was that at a volume level of 15, it just didn't feel like it had a lot of volume. Clear, yes, but just quiet. Not what I expected for a little more power and a higher the pan stock quality speaker. So. I experimented. I increased the bass by 1 mRk and the treble by 2. Didn't notice much, but most importabtky, clarity was still there. So I messed with AVC. I know most folks may recommend against it. I found out that when I got to level 3 of AVC, it was right what I wanted it. At volume of 15, I had the "volume" I was seeking to go along with the quality.
So, 2 more Polks are going into the lowers once parts arrive. I'm excited to see what my results are.
The questions I have for the group are:
Is 1 V from the BT355 about right?
Am I doing more harm than good with the AVC adjustments?
According to the tech folks with JL, since the Polks are 2.7 ohms, they said I shouldn't bridge below 4 ohms. So theoretically the amp at 13 V is pushing approximately 63 watts.
I'd bridge and get the Polks to their rms max of 100 rated if I felt comfortable that the amp wouldn't go into protect mode.
Not iquite sure what to do at this point other than bite the bullet and get different speaks that are 4 ohm
I don't have any issue backing down on the AVC, but out of curiosity, what exactly is it doing? Pushing extra voltage? Changing dsp curve in some way?
According to the tech folks with JL, since the Polks are 2.7 ohms, they said I shouldn't bridge below 4 ohms. So theoretically the amp at 13 V is pushing approximately 63 watts.
I'd bridge and get the Polks to their rms max of 100 rated if I felt comfortable that the amp wouldn't go into protect mode.
Not iquite sure what to do at this point other than bite the bullet and get different speaks that are 4 ohm
I don't have any issue backing down on the AVC, but out of curiosity, what exactly is it doing? Pushing extra voltage? Changing dsp curve in some way?
U need a different amp if ur running 4 speaks. The JL280 is only being used in the bridged more for sled stuff. Press on with the polks in the lowers if u like the way they sound but get a budget 4 channel amp that throws out 150 per if possible.
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