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Old Sep 10, 2017 | 06:57 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Tylcopeland
Gannicus, would you mind looking at the attached spec sheet and let me know what output (W) I should use to figure my target voltage with a DMM for the MD4100? I am only running the 2 MPX 165.3 fairing speakers.
That amp is a Beast Bridged bro!! Hopefully you're not running in bridged mode with those speakers!! Lol! So. You have a 4 channel amp and only 2 speakers. Amp is rated at 100x4 @ 4 ohms. Target voltage should be 20.0 with all settings at flat at the HU. 1000Hz test tone @ 3/4 volume. Now don't get hung up on setting your Target EXACTLY AT 20.0. We use the DMM as a baseline. There's always a +/- variance depending on if the amp specs are true rated RMS power. That's the thing with the DMM. You really NEVER know the if the amp is overrated or underrated unless you put it on a dyno. So you have to trust the manufacturer with the paper specs. So if we assume the spec is accurate then 20.0 vac is your target @ 100 x 4.
 

Last edited by Gannicus; Sep 10, 2017 at 07:05 PM.
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Old Sep 10, 2017 | 07:18 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by starbiker99
I see. Well in that case my CV B2 amp and Infinity Kappa speakers were louder than this setup at a 3rd of the price. Sound quality not as good but probably not $400 difference lol

Edit: By not as loud I mean highway volume. At 80 mph my volume at 75% was way high enough with the old setup. With my new setup at 80 mph I find myself trying to go past 75% very easily.

Edit 2: Since I am only set at 28V I find it hard to believe the AMP is cutting out and not distorting the sound at that volume when it looks like I could safely go to 32V with different speakers.

Alex is supposed to give me a shout one of thees days. Maybe post hurricane!!!
Just FYI bro. I've ran both set ups you speak of and the AW's are going to be richer and have more bass but are not going to be as loud as the Kappa's on the Highway. If you want loud you're gonna have to go pro audio and horns. The AW set up is excellent for the fairing and will produce good sound going down the highway but you need some additional speakers on your bike to complement the AW's. Preferably Pro Audio speakers.
 
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Old Sep 10, 2017 | 07:28 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Gannicus
That amp is a Beast Bridged bro!! Hopefully you're not running in bridged mode with those speakers!! Lol! So. You have a 4 channel amp and only 2 speakers. Amp is rated at 100x4 @ 4 ohms. Target voltage should be 20.0 with all settings at flat at the HU. 1000Hz test tone @ 3/4 volume. Now don't get hung up on setting your Target EXACTLY AT 20.0. We use the DMM as a baseline. There's always a +/- variance depending on if the amp specs are true rated RMS power. That's the thing with the DMM. You really NEVER know the if the amp is overrated or underrated unless you put it on a dyno. So you have to trust the manufacturer with the paper specs. So if we assume the spec is accurate then 20.0 vac is your target @ 100 x 4.
Thanks Bro! No, not trimming bridged. I did at least know enough to see that would have probably caused smoke. Lol! I will try to set it tomorrow. I appreciate the input!!!
 
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Old Sep 11, 2017 | 06:47 PM
  #24  
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Default Issue appears to be resolved - post DMM adjustment

Originally Posted by Gannicus
That amp is a Beast Bridged bro!! Hopefully you're not running in bridged mode with those speakers!! Lol! So. You have a 4 channel amp and only 2 speakers. Amp is rated at 100x4 @ 4 ohms. Target voltage should be 20.0 with all settings at flat at the HU. 1000Hz test tone @ 3/4 volume. Now don't get hung up on setting your Target EXACTLY AT 20.0. We use the DMM as a baseline. There's always a +/- variance depending on if the amp specs are true rated RMS power. That's the thing with the DMM. You really NEVER know the if the amp is overrated or underrated unless you put it on a dyno. So you have to trust the manufacturer with the paper specs. So if we assume the spec is accurate then 20.0 vac is your target @ 100 x 4.
Gannicus - I was able to get out there today and set the amp as you stated above. So far I have not been able to duplicated the issue I was having and everything sounds good. I really appreciate your input. I will re-post something if the issue returns but I'm hopeful that it will not.
I hope our paths cross one day and I can buy you a beverage.
Thank you again for taking the time to provide your input.
 
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Old Sep 12, 2017 | 06:40 AM
  #25  
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Hey brother I have some limited connectivity. Here are some things to check.

1. Check the TXO's and make sure the markings on the box vs. the markings on the wires aren't crossed. If they are reversed (and they were once upon a time) the change polarity may be causing the drop outs.

2. How's your battery? Do you keep it on a tender. If the amp is sucking juice and it's not there it will cut out. JL Amps are not power hungry amps...they are very efficient. You also don't have the gains maxed out so there should be plenty of room for them to pull and not cut out.

3. What size wire for power and ground are you using, and where did you ground the amp?
 
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Old Sep 12, 2017 | 09:33 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by BaggerAudioLab
Hey brother I have some limited connectivity. Here are some things to check.

1. Check the TXO's and make sure the markings on the box vs. the markings on the wires aren't crossed. If they are reversed (and they were once upon a time) the change polarity may be causing the drop outs.

2. How's your battery? Do you keep it on a tender. If the amp is sucking juice and it's not there it will cut out. JL Amps are not power hungry amps...they are very efficient. You also don't have the gains maxed out so there should be plenty of room for them to pull and not cut out.

3. What size wire for power and ground are you using, and where did you ground the amp?
I have 8 Gauge for power and ground direct to the battery. My battery is the original (April 2014) and during the summer I don't use a tender most of the time but I do during the winter. I will pull the fairing off and look at the wires. I'll get a good picture as well.

During my garage testing it never cut out (even running) but I took it for a spin yesterday afternoon and it cut out on the first song. When it cut out I left it there for a second and I could hear music very faintly almost like if the volume were at 1 our 2 bars. Turned it back and as soon as I hit 3 from max the music kicks back on.
 
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Old Sep 12, 2017 | 10:07 AM
  #27  
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This may have already been asked and if so I apologize. Are you using the AVC?
 
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Old Sep 12, 2017 | 11:11 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by SBates08
This may have already been asked and if so I apologize. Are you using the AVC?
Negative and Bass & Treble are still set to flat.

Getting ready to go open it up.
 
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Old Sep 12, 2017 | 11:33 AM
  #29  
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OK I may have wired the TXO's with the wrong polarity. Can someone confirm by this picture which color wire should go to Pos & Neg? I have the wires with the dashes going to the negatives but with the way the crossover is labeled I think that might be wrong. Thanks!
 
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Old Sep 12, 2017 | 12:40 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by starbiker99
OK I may have wired the TXO's with the wrong polarity. Can someone confirm by this picture which color wire should go to Pos & Neg? I have the wires with the dashes going to the negatives but with the way the crossover is labeled I think that might be wrong. Thanks!
Just based on the picture from their website I would say it is reversed. They show (red) to the + and (black) to the -, just as the crossover is labeled.

Out of curiosity, what music source are you using? When I did what Gannicus suggested I did it all straight from downloads that are on my phone, and then when I did a test ride I was also using music that was on my phone via bluetooth; however, when mine was breaking up it was music from my thumb drive through the USB cable. I will go ride later and listen to the music on my thumb drive and see if the issue returns. As I thought about it last night I remembered that I used two different sources of music to resolve the problem.
 
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