Amp with Band Pass capabilities
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Joined: Oct 2012
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From: Mi
Mike
All the suggestions are great and getting you going down the right track. The only downfall with your system right now that I can see for getting your system up and running with your current amps is that you will be stuck running the 8s in you bags in stereo and not parallel/bridged. as the TN4 900 is only stable at a 4 ohm load bridged.
Splitting the channels for 6.5 and 6x9 would be just to run Y splitters and combined the left and right channels (sum them).
I am free for the next few days and can give you a hand or chat about the next steps that need to be takin to get you ship to shore.
Drop me a dime after 3pm this week
All the suggestions are great and getting you going down the right track. The only downfall with your system right now that I can see for getting your system up and running with your current amps is that you will be stuck running the 8s in you bags in stereo and not parallel/bridged. as the TN4 900 is only stable at a 4 ohm load bridged.
Splitting the channels for 6.5 and 6x9 would be just to run Y splitters and combined the left and right channels (sum them).
I am free for the next few days and can give you a hand or chat about the next steps that need to be takin to get you ship to shore.
Drop me a dime after 3pm this week
yes, my suggestion was to get every thing off on it's own for tuning purposes. Get the 8' on thier own at 300 each on the 600.1 and get the TP speakers on channel 1-2 of the TN and 6x9's on ch 3-4. The dsp and 600.1 was way less expensive than the 6150.
Juice
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Road Warrior
Joined: Jan 2013
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From: Joliet IL.
I was already second guessing the 600.1 put it on hold! I have to replace the TN 900 (RCA input loose). I was thinking of replacing it with 2 SD amps or 6150 but 2 SD amps are cheaper say 1200.4 and 600.1 and or 400.4..any suggestions welcomed with open arms...and open wallet (actually 0% CC} along with having a garage sale in used audio section...LOL
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2012
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From: Mi
I was already second guessing the 600.1 put it on hold! I have to replace the TN 900 (RCA input loose). I was thinking of replacing it with 2 SD amps or 6150 but 2 SD amps are cheaper say 1200.4 and 600.1 and or 400.4..any suggestions welcomed with open arms...and open wallet (actually 0% CC} along with having a garage sale in used audio section...LOL
Both are good choices, the 1200.4 would be a good choice as it has plenty of power to grow with what you pick later, the 800.4 is a solid choice for most speakers. BUT ,,,,, the choice of the 2ohm or 4 ohm will drive you nuts and may steer you in the right direction for future growth as most of the beyma lineup and PRV lineup are 8 ohm.
Your current speakers are 4 ohm it took me a while to get over stereo mode too. But if you go with say the 2 ohm version you get the most out of your amps and run a pair of speaker in parallel off 2 channels bridged off a 2 ohm SD amp.
This may cause more questions. But, the SD amps really dictate a DSP.
Juice
Last edited by Juice; Feb 21, 2019 at 10:46 PM.
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Joined: Mar 2015
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From: TEXAS
Mike,
What speakers are ultimately going to be ur end game speakers for this build?
2 x GZ 8 Yellow basket inside bags @ 4 ohm? Watts desired?
2 x DD VO 6x9 @ 4 ohm in lids? Watts desired?
2 x ?? 6.5 in the TP Pods @ ?? Ohm? Watts desired?
T
What speakers are ultimately going to be ur end game speakers for this build?
2 x GZ 8 Yellow basket inside bags @ 4 ohm? Watts desired?
2 x DD VO 6x9 @ 4 ohm in lids? Watts desired?
2 x ?? 6.5 in the TP Pods @ ?? Ohm? Watts desired?
T
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Road Warrior
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,812
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From: Joliet IL.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2015
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From: TEXAS
Originally Posted by Moto Mike
I'd say... Bag's 2-GZ @ 250-300 rms.. Lids...2 Vo 6x9's 150-200 rms... TP VO 6.5 or 7.1 @ 150-200 rms..all 4ohm....I know I will need the DD DSP
If ur wanting that power & stat with SD amps then the 800.4 2 ohm gets u the TP & Lids wired bridged & parallel gets u 200w each speaker at 12.6 volts.
Then the 600.1 2 ohm version gets u 300w each bag 8 wired in parallel. The 400.4 gets u 200 each wired bridged at 12.6.
The 1200.4 at 4 ohm would be perfect for your build if u had 8 ohm speakers in the bags.
The TP & Lids would be wired in parallel off 1 & 2 getting u 150 each at 12.6v, then the bags wired bridged in parallel starting w 8 ohm speakers getting u a 4 ohm load thus 300 each speaker. Kind of why building these setups around amp & speaker combos on paper before spending any cash is not a bad idea.
Lots of other options if u come off that watt desire or want other brands.
T
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Joined: Sep 2017
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From: Southern Virginia
TP & Lids wired bridged & parallel gets u 200w each speaker at 12.6 volts
Also I had that same problem when I had my lowers and rear pods on the same channel. Drove me nuts and I couldn't blend them properly until each set of speakers got their own channel.
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Joined: Jan 2014
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From: Minnesota
Question here T. I know on my bike I had to push more power to the 6x9s than the TP pod speakers to keep the pod speakers from getting too loud too quick. In other words I was hearing the TP speakers before the 6x9s really came online. Would Mike run into that problem having the lids and pods in parallel on the same channel?
Also I had that same problem when I had my lowers and rear pods on the same channel. Drove me nuts and I couldn't blend them properly until each set of speakers got their own channel.
Also I had that same problem when I had my lowers and rear pods on the same channel. Drove me nuts and I couldn't blend them properly until each set of speakers got their own channel.
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From: TEXAS
Originally Posted by Hoyt 1911A1
Question here T. I know on my bike I had to push more power to the 6x9s than the TP pod speakers to keep the pod speakers from getting too loud too quick. In other words I was hearing the TP speakers before the 6x9s really came online. Would Mike run into that problem having the lids and pods in parallel on the same channel?
Also I had that same problem when I had my lowers and rear pods on the same channel. Drove me nuts and I couldn't blend them properly until each set of speakers got their own channel.
Also I had that same problem when I had my lowers and rear pods on the same channel. Drove me nuts and I couldn't blend them properly until each set of speakers got their own channel.
In parallel for some means that u wire in parallel the stuff that's on the left side of the sled regardless of the speaker size and specs on channel 1/2 eg, and the same logic for the right on 3/4.
I would recommend that u never wire anything in parallel that is not the same or damn near the same.
In this case of the 800.4 the lids would be on 1/2 and TP on 3/4 so any difference in presence, SPL etc can all be balanced out via tuning.
If u parallel a 6.5 and a 6x9 on 1/2 then again on 3/4 ur basically fuxxed.
U picking up what I'm laying down? You really should never wire 2 different speakers makes & models in parallel on the same channel thus a very different yet simple wiring strategy change. Maybe 10 mins fixes it.
T
Last edited by Tailwind; Feb 22, 2019 at 07:45 AM.
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