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I haven't read all 5 pages word forward so forgive me if these points have been made... the human ear GENERALLY needs a 3dB increase in volume to perceive a difference. That equates to a doubling of power. in other words, if you have 150W going to a 4-ohm speaker you would need to send it 300W to increase the volume 3dB. There are ways to "play" with this rule (i.e. equalizers). Additionally, at a given Hz a speaker has a different Impedance(ohms), say at 100Hz is at 3.8 ohms then at 4KHz it may be 9 ohms. So, this plays with the perceived volume as well.
The other thing to think about when talking about output power to remember is that music is dynamic! Just because you use an amp rated at 150W per channel at 4 ohms doesn't mean you are sending the speaker 150W RMS continuously. Its likely only a fraction of that 150W rating. Just because you have a 1000W amp doesn't mean you are pushing a 1000W all the time, often it's probably 10% of that.
These may be novice things that are way too obvious to bring up IDK, but to have a conversation about power these things have to be considered. I am in the stereo only crowd for the most part. I'll use part of my system as an example. I use a JL Audio XD 400/4V2 to run my (4) 4-ohm PRV Neo 6.5s. This results a 75W per speaker potential amplification. Had I used the 8-ohm version of this speaker I could have used the same amp and achieved 100W per speaker of potential amplification. 25W per speaker would not have made an audible difference in sound in my opinion. Especially considering the environment that has already been discussed in this thread. Now I don't fault anyone for trying to strategize to extract every last watt out of their setup it's totally a preference thing. Also, I applaud anyone trying out of the box stuff to try and get that next little bit of SQ/loud out of there system. Google "alan dante spl car" images to get a taste of "out of the box" thinking.
Great post!!! If I can expand a little further as these numbers are not always exactly what you see on a spec sheet (like your reference to impendence curves). So take this example of using 75w per speaker vs. 100w. On the surface you would think I'll take 25 more watts every time. However what you also have to consider is that the lower you drive the impedance load on an amp 1. amps will run hotter and hotter means degradation of sound quality and 2. you also drop in efficiency. So consider that most of these ratings are done at 14.4 volts and you are now where near there even with the bike running you can assume you already producing less power. Now take 75w at a 4ohm load and an average class d amps is about 80% efficient so you are getting at best 60w to those speakers. Now take 100w on a 4ohm bridged is 2ohm load per channel so at 2ohm you could be down to 70% efficiency which results in 70w of those 100 left......AND hotter AND sucking more juice. So in the end did you really get 25 more watts??? Not likely. While this example isn't the case for every bike, amps, speaker combo it's another perspective on achieving the best sound quality out of a bike.
Great read. Lots of great info. Unfortunately I missed the target when I pulled the internet trigger finger and bought a bunch of stuff. Now trying to make it all work together.
Great read. Lots of great info. Unfortunately I missed the target when I pulled the internet trigger finger and bought a bunch of stuff. Now trying to make it all work together.
Buy high sell low. Thats my moto.
Lol, I think we've all been there, especially in this ever changing world of audio.
New ideas lead to new products. New products leads to a stack of old products on the garage shelf.
Hell I'm in the middle of upgrading right now, knowing there's a good chance I'm probably going to want to upgrade some of it again next year.
The good thing is there is usually someone happy to buy my old gear, and unfortunately some new gear I probably didn't need.
I had to go take a cruise around to see what kind of things are offered in the world of bike audio, since this thread makes things seem so "new" and "different".
I found the "new" to be Bluetooth...maybe, and the "different" to be, how poorly laid out specs are at some "popular" moto places, which makes it absolutely impossible to plan a system.
Other than that, the math is the same....
Whadyakno!?
3 truths.
1. Front and Center on a Touring Bike with Speakers in the Fairing is ONE OF THE BEST PLACES ON EARTH TO ENJOY STEREO SOUND.
(mono everywhere else)
2. An overpowered system Will Always sound cleaner if played at appropriate volume levels.
3. Crutchfield.com walks you through installation, and usually provides $30-60 of free harnesses/install kits with your purchase..
No disrespect at all brother. Thus is audio and the the minute everyone thinks they got it all figured out, it changes. That's half the fun. I change golf clubs a bunch too. Lol!!!
But are guys/gals going to 8 ohm due to product availability within the pro audio / mid bass / mid range arena or are 8 ohm speakers something that folks really should seek out? Do they really play better? More or less efficient? Require more of less watts to obtain the same DB? Are the more suitable to pair with amps for amp watt management / efficiency?
Cavity back or forged golf clubs? Same concept?
T
Cavity back all day, on my consistent days I could make a forged Adams club sing. On my inconsistent days, the titleist AP1s kept me out of the 90s.......
That said, I run a mix of 4 and 8 ohm speakers depending on where Im putting them, power demands, and power availability of the amps I want to run. 8ohm allows me to bridge a 4 ohm amp and get a bit more than I could running it with 2 4ohm speakers in stereo.
Others Ill leave in stereo because of where they are or what I have available.
Took me a few tries to make 6 speakers sound good but I think it came out ok.
Now we move to 10 because its never enough and Ill select them and the amps accordingly for what Im trying to do.
I try to send my speakers somewhere between rms and max power or program power if you are dealing with some of the pro audio brands.
My set-up
Beyma cx6 woofers are getting 300 watts each
Beyma cx8 woofers are getting 300 watts each
Gz Red 6.5 getting 400 watts each
4 Beyma horns getting about 43 watts each
Prv10w650a getting 600 watts each.
Amps were tuned with head unit at 43/50 volume
I have not turned my head unit up past 32.
Sound is loud and clear, with some good bottom end.
So out of 3,450 watts i have everything tuned about 3,380 watts. This is all rms at 12.6 volts.
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