Adding Saddlebag Lid Speakers Kit?
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 2,454
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From: Graysville, AL
Adding Saddlebag Lid Speakers Kit?
Hello, a buddy of mine has a 2010 Ultra Classic that he is wanting to add saddlebag lid speakers. He has an Aquatic head unit in it now and he is happy with that. Is there a kit (amp/speakers) that will work with this head unit? I'd prefer something plug and play or almost plug and play if possible. I'll be putting the kit in for him. Thanks for the info and help.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 3,846
Likes: 998
From: Southern Virginia
On my 2010 Ultra I just got the HogTunes lids and painted them to match. They are very well built and do not leak. Your buddy is going to have to have an amp to push them so plan on that. In most cases you are going to need around 200W RMS to get them to wake up, more if possible.
Some folks will bridge an NVX VADM4 which I THINK can fit on a bracket that hangs down under the brake side fairing speaker if you want to hide it in the fairing. You've got more options if you don't mind mounting an amp in a saddlebag.
As far as "plug and play" goes there's really no such thing for the older bikes and lid speakers. In a way that is a good thing. With modern technology you can get much better sound than was possible when the bike was new.
I realize lids and paint get expensive but my factory lids had rails on them and I didn't want to try to work around them. Also that way I can put it back to stock if I ever want to. If you really want to keep cost to a minimum you can check out teh RockFord Fosgate lid kit. I have to admit though I like the look of my HogTunes grills better than the RF kit.
List a budget and the smart folks can steer you towards particular parts to use.
Some folks will bridge an NVX VADM4 which I THINK can fit on a bracket that hangs down under the brake side fairing speaker if you want to hide it in the fairing. You've got more options if you don't mind mounting an amp in a saddlebag.
As far as "plug and play" goes there's really no such thing for the older bikes and lid speakers. In a way that is a good thing. With modern technology you can get much better sound than was possible when the bike was new.
I realize lids and paint get expensive but my factory lids had rails on them and I didn't want to try to work around them. Also that way I can put it back to stock if I ever want to. If you really want to keep cost to a minimum you can check out teh RockFord Fosgate lid kit. I have to admit though I like the look of my HogTunes grills better than the RF kit.
List a budget and the smart folks can steer you towards particular parts to use.
Thread Starter
|
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 2,454
Likes: 58
From: Graysville, AL
On my 2010 Ultra I just got the HogTunes lids and painted them to match. They are very well built and do not leak. Your buddy is going to have to have an amp to push them so plan on that. In most cases you are going to need around 200W RMS to get them to wake up, more if possible.
Some folks will bridge an NVX VADM4 which I THINK can fit on a bracket that hangs down under the brake side fairing speaker if you want to hide it in the fairing. You've got more options if you don't mind mounting an amp in a saddlebag.
As far as "plug and play" goes there's really no such thing for the older bikes and lid speakers. In a way that is a good thing. With modern technology you can get much better sound than was possible when the bike was new.
I realize lids and paint get expensive but my factory lids had rails on them and I didn't want to try to work around them. Also that way I can put it back to stock if I ever want to. If you really want to keep cost to a minimum you can check out teh RockFord Fosgate lid kit. I have to admit though I like the look of my HogTunes grills better than the RF kit.
List a budget and the smart folks can steer you towards particular parts to use.
Some folks will bridge an NVX VADM4 which I THINK can fit on a bracket that hangs down under the brake side fairing speaker if you want to hide it in the fairing. You've got more options if you don't mind mounting an amp in a saddlebag.
As far as "plug and play" goes there's really no such thing for the older bikes and lid speakers. In a way that is a good thing. With modern technology you can get much better sound than was possible when the bike was new.
I realize lids and paint get expensive but my factory lids had rails on them and I didn't want to try to work around them. Also that way I can put it back to stock if I ever want to. If you really want to keep cost to a minimum you can check out teh RockFord Fosgate lid kit. I have to admit though I like the look of my HogTunes grills better than the RF kit.
List a budget and the smart folks can steer you towards particular parts to use.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 3,846
Likes: 998
From: Southern Virginia
I was hoping someone with some more experience would chime in but I'll toss this in to keep the thread alive.
A lot of folks have said that the Mmats 6x9 coaxials sound good for the money. I don't know about their weather resistance though, might want to check into that if it is important. I went with Polk MM691 marine speakers in my lids and have had good luck with them. That model has a separate crossover that I stuck to the top of the lid under the strap with velcro.
As far as amps go are y'all wanting to keep it all under the fairing or is a possible saddlebag mount an option? I don't know how much stuff he has under the fairing but if he has already chucked his CB module he should have some room available. Is there already an amp in the fairing taking up space for the front speakers?
A lot of folks have said that the Mmats 6x9 coaxials sound good for the money. I don't know about their weather resistance though, might want to check into that if it is important. I went with Polk MM691 marine speakers in my lids and have had good luck with them. That model has a separate crossover that I stuck to the top of the lid under the strap with velcro.
As far as amps go are y'all wanting to keep it all under the fairing or is a possible saddlebag mount an option? I don't know how much stuff he has under the fairing but if he has already chucked his CB module he should have some room available. Is there already an amp in the fairing taking up space for the front speakers?
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 5,749
Likes: 1,603
From: High Point, NC.
The mmats 690cx are very water resistant. believe me I tested them lol. I had the water treated added, and also for piece of mind, sprayed them with camp dry a couple times when installing. They get very loud with little power or and sound very good with just setting gains by ear.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 3,846
Likes: 998
From: Southern Virginia
What amp are you pushing them with teedoff? Since the OP didn't mention if an amp was in play or not for the front speakers I was wondering if a Stinger 700 would do OK for all four speakers or not? Mmats rates those 6x9s at 100W RMS I believe. If a DSP isn't "squashing" the signal so to speak I wonder if the 700 would be enough?
I seem to recall I didn't need to really boost the power to my 6x9s until I started cutting a lot of the mids out with my DSP...
Edit: Also OP you didn't mention if the rear pod speakers were in play anymore. If they are you might be looking at a good four channel amp just for the rear end. Just a thought...
I seem to recall I didn't need to really boost the power to my 6x9s until I started cutting a lot of the mids out with my DSP...
Edit: Also OP you didn't mention if the rear pod speakers were in play anymore. If they are you might be looking at a good four channel amp just for the rear end. Just a thought...
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 5,749
Likes: 1,603
From: High Point, NC.
What amp are you pushing them with teedoff? Since the OP didn't mention if an amp was in play or not for the front speakers I was wondering if a Stinger 700 would do OK for all four speakers or not? Mmats rates those 6x9s at 100W RMS I believe. If a DSP isn't "squashing" the signal so to speak I wonder if the 700 would be enough?
I seem to recall I didn't need to really boost the power to my 6x9s until I started cutting a lot of the mids out with my DSP...
Edit: Also OP you didn't mention if the rear pod speakers were in play anymore. If they are you might be looking at a good four channel amp just for the rear end. Just a thought...
I seem to recall I didn't need to really boost the power to my 6x9s until I started cutting a lot of the mids out with my DSP...
Edit: Also OP you didn't mention if the rear pod speakers were in play anymore. If they are you might be looking at a good four channel amp just for the rear end. Just a thought...
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2009
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From: Graysville, AL
Thanks for all the info guys. Currently he has hog tune speaker in the front t with an Aquatic head unit. The tour pack and speakers have been removed so its basically a street glide.
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Grand HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 3,846
Likes: 998
From: Southern Virginia
OK lhgdale does he have an amp powering the fairing speakers? If not does he want one? Just curious.
You could do like Teedoff did and try a Stinger SPX 700.4 powering all four speakers. That may be loud enough for him given the performance of those Mmats 6x9s. It just seems that if you push some good power to the 6x9s in the lids the fairing speakers might get drowned out if they are not fed some real wattage (which the head unit alone cannot supply).
If he wants more power and better sound he could pony up a few more bucks and use a JL XD600/6v2 six channel amp and bridge the back four channels to feed the 6x9s. That would give him 200 watts to each of the lid speakers and 75 watts to each of the fairing speakers. The only thing about this setup though would be that much good power might be wasted on Hogtunes speakers. To get the most out of the JL amp I think most folks would advise upgrading the fairing speakers, so that might push the cost higher than he wants to go, but it sure would make for a simple install with a known great sounding amp. Maybe the Mmats coaxial 6.5s in the fairing and the Mmats 6x9 coaxials in the lids?
So in a nutshell to go budget with a good amp the stinger 700x4 feeding the fairing speakers and lids (with whatever 6x9s you choose). To go higher quality sound the JL amp with Mmats 6.5s in the fairing and 6x9s in the lids. With that many quality watts in play if he didn't like the tone he could add a DSP to shape the EQ curve and not be starved for volume.
Hopefully someone with more experience than me will chime in, these are just some ideas I dreamed up out of thin air.
You could do like Teedoff did and try a Stinger SPX 700.4 powering all four speakers. That may be loud enough for him given the performance of those Mmats 6x9s. It just seems that if you push some good power to the 6x9s in the lids the fairing speakers might get drowned out if they are not fed some real wattage (which the head unit alone cannot supply).
If he wants more power and better sound he could pony up a few more bucks and use a JL XD600/6v2 six channel amp and bridge the back four channels to feed the 6x9s. That would give him 200 watts to each of the lid speakers and 75 watts to each of the fairing speakers. The only thing about this setup though would be that much good power might be wasted on Hogtunes speakers. To get the most out of the JL amp I think most folks would advise upgrading the fairing speakers, so that might push the cost higher than he wants to go, but it sure would make for a simple install with a known great sounding amp. Maybe the Mmats coaxial 6.5s in the fairing and the Mmats 6x9 coaxials in the lids?
So in a nutshell to go budget with a good amp the stinger 700x4 feeding the fairing speakers and lids (with whatever 6x9s you choose). To go higher quality sound the JL amp with Mmats 6.5s in the fairing and 6x9s in the lids. With that many quality watts in play if he didn't like the tone he could add a DSP to shape the EQ curve and not be starved for volume.
Hopefully someone with more experience than me will chime in, these are just some ideas I dreamed up out of thin air.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 3,371
Likes: 689
From: indiana
If you are going mmats in the fairing and lids then get a sd 800.4 evox 4 ohm and be done. That will give you around 150w per channel while riding. Plenty enough for those mmats in all 4 corners. Set the hpf on the front around 80-85 and the rear hpf around 70-75. That should be in the ballpark.
Dont get me wrong, the stinger is a damn good amp especially for retaining fm reception but at currant prices on a stinger vs shopping for a sd 800.4 evox there is less than $100 difference and the 800.4 is a better amp.
Just my 2cents worth.
Dont get me wrong, the stinger is a damn good amp especially for retaining fm reception but at currant prices on a stinger vs shopping for a sd 800.4 evox there is less than $100 difference and the 800.4 is a better amp.
Just my 2cents worth.
Last edited by travelingypsye; Oct 11, 2020 at 06:06 AM.